Remove factory "Battery Disconnect" switch

[MD-Escape]

I'm in the process of re-arranging and upgrading the under-bench wiring in my 5.0...yet again. I've already installed a for-real battery disconnect switch off of the positive battery terminal (after T-Class fuse) and a solar->MPPT disconnect breaker. Typically the only time I need to disconnect the battery is when I'm working on the electrical in which case I need to make sure *every* source of power is disabled (solar, battery, shore power, DC/DC,...). Even during the 2-3 months of winter storage the lithiums are simply disconnected (they don't loose much juice).

My question is if folks think it's okay/reasonable to just get rid of the factory installed, poorly named "Battery Disconnect" switch? I've never even used the Escape installed switch since all it does is disconnect the DC input to the WFCO. It would help de-complexify the wiring by getting rid of the big loop around and back again. Then I can run a line from battery->fuse->WFCO.

If the switch is desired I could install a breaker/switch combo (eg: BlueSea 285) and place it nearer to the WCFO. That way it can still be turned off if desired...just don't see the need.

Thanks

 

[jjdeluca]

I've already installed a for-real battery disconnect switch off of the positive battery terminal (after T-Class fuse) and a solar->MPPT disconnect breaker..........
My question is if folks think it's okay/reasonable to just get rid of the factory installed, poorly named "Battery Disconnect" switch?

If I'm understanding correctly, you've already added another battery disconnect switch so the factory switch would be redundant & should be OK to remove.
Jim

 

[Suregrip391]

I’m sorry I can’t help but If you decide to remove send me a PM with what you want for it. I see you don’t receive messages. Thank you.

 

[Centex]

Personally, I think it's useful as both a safety feature and for maintenance procedures to have a single true "master" switch which isolates the battery (or entire battery bank) from the entire trailer electrical system (both loads and charging devices). The need may be infrequent, but when it arises it's important.

Being an old-school vehicle mechanic, with the rule "disconnect negative first, reconnect negative last" indelibly ingrained in my psyche, my master battery switch is on the negative cable connected to my battery, between the battery terminal and my shunt>negative electrical bus.

Avoiding the potentially confusing word "disconnect", that switch is simply labeled "Battery" with "On" and "Off" position labels. For me it's intuitive that when "On" the battery energizes the trailer systems, when "Off" it does not.

As always, YMMV, no worries!

 

[Ron in BC]

P

Being an old-school vehicle mechanic, with the rule "disconnect negative first, reconnect negative last" indelibly ingrained in my psyche,

Absolutely agree with "negative first off and last on" and understand the reasons for it. Except in my trailer case the master totally disconnects the positve.

No matter, as long as OFF means OFF.

Ron

 

[MD-Escape]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I guess I'll be removing the factory disconnect switch.

Suregrip391 - I usually keep any/all original parts in case I sell the vehicle but I'll try and remember to contact you if decide otherwise.