Repairing the city water check valve

What about just screwing the attached plastic cap in tightly enough? With the hose washer inside it should make a tight enough seal I would think.
Maybe... they're not intended for that purpose, but it might work.

I'm used to a filler with just a rubber cap, and didn't realize that the Escape filler had a threaded plug for a cap - good catch, Eric. :) This stuff happens when you don't have the trailer yet...
 
This is just an observation. Looking at the back side of the plastic box, there are bars moulded into the box to keep the inlet fitting from turning. That means the manufacturer must have assembled the inlet from the outside. Maybe it can be unscrewed from the outside and then you could implement your repair without spinning the pipe/barb joint. You would need a second person to hold a wrench on the inside when unscrewing the fitting on the outside, as those plastic bars would not be able to resist wrench pressure during assembly or disassembly. If the manufacturer pressed the fitting together rather than threading, this method wouldn't work.
Just a thought.
Russ
 
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Its too bad it wasn't a quality build from the onset. Mine failed after 1 year. I've bought a replacement, haven't yet installed it. I'm also thinking of putting a shut off valve on the pump supply side so water cannot get into the pump when on city water...
 
If this happened on a trailer with the spray foam insulation would the repair be a bigger problem?

No, the valve is located in the fresh water hookup on the outside rear of the trailer, accessible inside under the bed or dinette, depending on which trailer you have.
 
Thank You

I realize this is a bit old but signed up just to say thanks.

Your step by step was great and I realized my blunder and easily fixed my check valve today in only a few minutes.

I actually smirked when I attempted the fix after reading this, for when i pulled out the spring and o-ring, in my hand sat an exact replica of the 'wait a minute, the o-ring isn't supposed to be in the middle of the spring' schmozz. Identical. It was in some ways a relief.

My plumbing simply screws the water hose with a swivel connector to the valve housing so it went on and off in seconds once I removed the front cover. Stuffed a paper towel in behind the valve to hold the rod forward as I used the needle nose pliers to get the spring and plastic holding ring back on. Great tips on the fix and great explanation.

Won't make the mistake of depressing the valve while pressurized again.

Thanks for taking the time to post. Saved me time and money. Especially had I gone to the dealer with a shrug.
 
Great tutorial. Only problem is it was impossible for me to crack that compression fitting without destroying everything around it or cracking the fiberglass body. Have to live with a broken check valve or remove the entire assembly (rivets and all) and do a complete replacement.
 
Thanks for the "heads up" and timely as I lost the cap to the water fill and thought of replacing the whole assembly with locked cover (presently open to let anyone mess with it).
 
I want to remove the entire assembly and replace it. Problem is, the 2010 Escape 19 has the city water on the left and the tank fill on the right. They don't make them anymore. Everything is reversed so, how messed up is that?
 
I want to remove the entire assembly and replace it. Problem is, the 2010 Escape 19 has the city water on the left and the tank fill on the right. They don't make them anymore. Everything is reversed so, how messed up is that?
What's the problem?
 

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The problem is, they only make replacement assemblies with the tank fill on the left and the city connect on the right. They discontinued the assemblies you show in your picture. The piping under the bed has to be cut and refitted to accommodate the design change.
 
Wish I could. The connections are angled in such a way that it makes it impractical. I already considered that.
 
Thanks

I’ve just purchased a 2014 21C with a reported city water leak. I’m just getting started with trouble shooting and found this post. I’ll be starting my troubleshooting with this tutorial on mind!
 
Shadius, I just went through the task and found this thread to be very helpful. A few suggestions.

Is your water fill unit old style (city connection on the left when viewed from outside) or new style (city connection on the right)? If it is new style then you have the option of easily replacing the complete hatch unit. If it is old style then you can convert it but with some fiberglass cutting and replacing the fill lines.

Looking from the inside, is there a swivel connection, easily unscrewed by hand, on the water line? Or is the water line pex crimped to the city water inlet? If it is pex crimped then you will have to cut that line off to remove the pex barb adapter and get at the back of the check valve. In my 2010 trailer it was crimped, so when I reassembled everything I used sharkbite type fittings with a swivel connector to make it easier next time.

Drilling out the rivets to remove the housing is quick and makes it easier to work on. I ended up going that route.

The actual o-ring replacement isn't bad.

Good luck, and I hope you find that you have the new style unit and a swivel connection.
 
I have a 2014 21C and I cannot see how I can easily get to the water fill spouts from inside the trailer. They look to be right below the refrigerator cabinet. I’m guessing I’ll have to disassemble all the cabinets to get to the water lines? The under bench storage area only houses the electronics, not the water lines. This is as far as I got today when I started trouble shooting…
 
Our city connection is on the right, holding tank fill is on the left. I still can’t get to the back of the fill box without removing cabinets as far as I can telll.
 
Our city connection is on the right, holding tank fill is on the left. I still can’t get to the back of the fill box without removing cabinets as far as I can telll.

Going back to your post #35, you said the trailer has a “reported” leak at the city water connection. You can test for a check valve leak by putting some water in the fresh water tank, disconnecting the garden hose from the connection, turning on the water pump to pressurize the system, and looking at the outside connection point. If pressure from the pump causes water to dribble out of the connection point then the check valve is bad. If there is no leaking water then the check valve is ok.
 
Awesome, thank-you! I bought a scope today so that I can do some testing without taking everything apart, first. I’ll start with this test, but the more I think about it the more I feel like this may not be the issue. It really sounds like they had a water leak inside the trailer itself.
 

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