Replacing Brakes

[Brian B-P]

After replacing them I had Deb step on the brakes, while I checked to make sure they engaged, it took 6 seconds before I heard the magnets kick in, is this normal? I'm guessing it's a function of the F150 integrated controller. It's 6 seconds every time.

The controller should brake the trailer in proportion to deceleration, but I assume that this test was while not even moving, and so certainly not decelerating... so there's no need to brake at all. My guess is that you were triggering a "holding" feature of the controller, intended to help hold the rig on a slope by applying a set low level of power when normal operation would not apply any.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

re self adjusting drum brakes... only ones I've dealt with were the ones on my dad's old plymouth valiant, they adjusted when you applied the brakes going *backwards* ... no idea if the trailer brakes work the same way.

 

[Ron in BC]

I did find the cause of the front brakes not working. There are butt splices in the wire loom where they spliced on short lengths of white wire, these are the wires that run up into the trailer as opposed to the ones that run to the opposite side. One of these was broken. Replaced all the butt connectors with the heat shrink self sealing variety.

Do I need to do an initial adjustment on these or just drive around a while? From what I read they adjust when going in the forward direction.

FYI... Experimented with the butt connectors that have solder in them, supposed to melt when you heat it up. It looks like it melts but you can yank the wires right out of the connectors so it's pretty useless. My heat gun says it goes to 1500 degrees. I used the crimp on ones instead.

I had the same problem with the brake connections. My trailer was a year old at the time.

I've never used the connectors with the solder. I use crimp connectors, followed by soldering and heat shrink. Or a soldered Western Union splice with heat shrink.

Don't know anything about trailer self adjusting brakes but on cars don't they self adjust when backing up?

Ron

 

[cpaharley2008]

I recall you put the vehicle in reverse and back up and apply the brakes several times for the cog wheel to adjust....

 

[gbaglo]

re self adjusting drum brakes... only ones I've dealt with were the ones on my dad's old plymouth valiant

I've never forgiven my dad for buying a Valiant.

 

[padlin]

All I see is they are forward adjusting.

Brian, thanks for the info, that would explain what I'm seeing. I'll test drive it tomorrow.

Ron, that's the connectors. The copper broke off at the crimp.

 

[Rossue]

From Dexter: you should burnish in the new brakes.

https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/def...brary/light-duty-electric-brakes.pdf?sfvrsn=2

 

[padlin]

Thanks Ross

 

[Rossue]

Sure- let us know how they are working for you.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

I've never forgiven my dad for buying a Valiant.

I forget how old this picture is, but the kid in it is 28 now. and my dad is now 93.

 

[Oldtimer-ESC]

Ron, we had the same issue on our 21 fixed it and found 2 others that had failed. Called Dave at ETI and sent him pictures detailing the areas the fails were at

 

[padlin]

Tried breaking in the brakes per the Dexter manual, I can not get the brakes to lock up even with the controller on max. After slamming the brakes on @ 20mph about 30 times the truck brakes read 350 degrees, the drums on the trailer at 75!

Think I need to try manually adjusting them.

I'm taking it that if I pull the emergency they should apply instantly, as opposed to the 6 second delay I reported above. I'll give that a shot when I get it jacked back up, whenever I can get to it.

 

[Iowa Dave]

Two things that I would check. On our tekshonka controller there is a manually activated flipper. Regardless of the setting , it will lock up the brakes if pushed in the activation direction. Does your controller do that?. Secondly it has been my experience that unless the shoes are “arced” to the drums there is not perfect uniform contact upon actuation. The drums, unless lathe turned are not perfectly round. Therefore when the shoes are adjusted out to a “close contact position” by adjusting out to “full” mechanical contact and then backed off with the adjuster , when the drum is spun by hand the low spot on the drum and the high spot on the shoes make momentary contact. A light ringing noise is created. Ching, Ching, Ching as rotation is repeated. I’ve always taken that as proper adjustment tolerance and had immediate results when the tow vehicle brake pedal is pushed. I do not believe there should be a measurable delay before braking begins. I’m not going by any instructions or specifications just my personal experience. With new or clean and “free” actuating components “ pivot points” things ought to react immediately after an electric “pulse” is sent. Does anyone else believe this to be true or not?
Iowa Dave

 

[tdf-texas]

Two things that I would check. On our tekshonka controller there is a manually activated flipper. Regardless of the setting , it will lock up the brakes if pushed in the activation direction. Does your controller do that?. Secondly it has been my experience that unless the shoes are “arced” to the drums there is not perfect uniform contact upon actuation. The drums, unless lathe turned are not perfectly round. Therefore when the shoes are adjusted out to a “close contact position” by adjusting out to “full” mechanical contact and then backed off with the adjuster , when the drum is spun by hand the low spot on the drum and the high spot on the shoes make momentary contact. A light ringing noise is created. Ching, Ching, Ching as rotation is repeated. I’ve always taken that as proper adjustment tolerance and had immediate results when the tow vehicle brake pedal is pushed. I do not believe there should be a measurable delay before braking begins. I’m not going by any instructions or specifications just my personal experience. With new or clean and “free” actuating components “ pivot points” things ought to react immediately after an electric “pulse” is sent. Does anyone else believe this to be true or not?
Iowa Dave

I think you are exactly correct. That is the way I adjust the brakes as well and have had no problems with braking. I can throw the manual activation lever on my P3 over hard and lock up the brakes with no delay.

 

[Jack L]

My personal experience with brakes on trailers and a other vehicles is exactly the same as Iowa Dave.

 

[rubicon327]

Do I need to do an initial adjustment on these or just drive around a while? From what I read they adjust when going in the forward direction.

The Dexter Nev-R-Adjust brake assemblies do require an initial adjustment when new. They are supposed to adjust when stopping in the forward and reverse directions per the manual. The delay you are experiencing does not sound right. If the brake controller is proportional you should get a lower voltage at the magnet with light braking and upwards of 12 volts under heavy braking. There may be an issue with your integrated brake controller.

 

[Brian B-P]

The delay you are experiencing does not sound right. If the brake controller is proportional you should get a lower voltage at the magnet with light braking and upwards of 12 volts under heavy braking. There may be an issue with your integrated brake controller.

Yes, but he's not really braking at all, since the rig is stationary. If the Ford controller is acceleration-based (not just hydraulic pressure based), no trailer braking power is appropriate.

 

[padlin]

When I was stationary I saw the delay, today I tried it out on the road. No idea if they were working as they never heated up and I could not feel any pull from the trailer. Will try the manual brake levers when I jack the trailer back up, didn't think of that. Might not be able to get to this till next week, headed to PA for my MIL's 95th.


And no, we're not taking the trailer.

 

[rubicon327]

Yes, but he's not really braking at all, since the rig is stationary. If the Ford controller is acceleration-based (not just hydraulic pressure based), no trailer braking power is appropriate.

Ok. With the Tekonsha Prodigy proportional controller I’m used to hearing a hum of the energizing magnets right away even if sitting still. I figured this would be no different. Bad assumption.

 

[Brian B-P]

Ok. With the Tekonsha Prodigy proportional controller I’m used to hearing a hum of the energizing magnets right away even if sitting still. I figured this would be no different.

Tekonsha has a park-hold feature somewhat like what I assume Ford is doing (and it is just an educated guess), but without a similar delay. The Prodigy applies power immediately regardless of deceleration, dependent on the "boost" setting, and then reduces it after 5 seconds stationary to reduce brake heating.