Roof leak

[riskman]

I recently purchased a 2015 17B with AC. I have discovered it has a leak from one or more roof penetrations and/or caused by a solar install. I note there is a fiberglass reinforcement panel that appears to sit on the roof to spread the load and then the ac unit sits atop that. It does not appear to have any mechanical connection to the trailer roof other than the bolts that I assume clamp the top unit to the interior part and those bolts use the 14x14 opening. There does not appear to be any sealant, at least not visible, between the two layers, so I'm speculating that water can ingress/egress that space without causing an issue, provided the roof opening seal functions as intended. When I remove the interior cover, the wood around the opening is dry, so that seal appears to be good. However, the company that installed the solar put four screws through the perimeter lip of the reinforcement piece when routing the wires, as well as five other screws through the roof and the opening for the wires. It's beyond me why they wouldn't have turned the panel and had the wires come directly into the rear cabinet rather than the one above the sink. It's even more mind boggling that the seller paid $1500 for this work and all they received was a 35w GoPower panel and controller, along with a total of 10 penetrations.

Although they put sealant on top of the screws, I'm wondering if any water that gets under the roof reinforcement piece is finding its way to the screws that penetrate it and the roof.

Does anyone know what this construction looks like? Was that interface sealed at the factory? Does it sound like I'm on the right path?

I called Escape, but the very nice lady I spoke with in after sales service was so new she knew nothing about this. She thought another gentlemen might, but I'm waiting for a call back.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[7Gentex]

"Although they put sealant on top of the screws, I'm wondering if any water that gets under the roof reinforcement piece is finding its way to the screws that penetrate it and the roof. "


Though I have not seen an older 17B with the A/C reinforcement panel in person, it appears you may be on the right track, If you Google some 17B roof pics, all of the solar wire attachments I saw were on the roof shell proper, not the reinforcement panel. Appears water can get under that reinforcement panel (not usually a problem it appears) and if the screws that you have in that panel go all the way into the roof.........water could get in........?

 

[HABBERDABBER]

One way to check is to close up the trailer as best you can, hook up a shop vac to pressurize the interior with its exhaust air INTO the rig and go around the exterior with a squirt bottle of Dawn and water and squirt at the exterior penetrations.
Not as easy, maybe, as I think, but that is one technique.
The other is to remove all sealants, clean, and reapply at any penetration. Not easy, either.

 

[Ron in BC]

I'm not sure what sealant they were using in 2015 but on my 2014 is was silicone and it still allowed moisture to wick down the screw.

I'm not a fan of face sealing and always inject caulking into the screw hole before inserting the screw and then top coating them.

There's a chance just removing the screws and doing the same will cure the issue.

Ron

 

[riskman]

I've since heard from Escape and they advised that butyl tape was used around the perimeter. That could be dried out and/or displaced by power washing. The sellers mentioned having used a power washer.

I had it out to a local rv repairs shop today to get an idea about resealing all roof penetrations and repairing the damage to the cabinets. They were wondering about the cabinet construction and how it attaches to the wall. The cabinets appear to be 1/2" or 3/4" framing with 1/8" paper-faced plywood covering it, but it's not apparent how it attaches. I have another email into Escape with these questions.

Fortunately, the sellers are being very gracious and have agreed to pay these costs. I don't mind a project and could do all the work myself, but I have many other projects on the go and don't have the time for this one.

Here's a couple pics of the problem area in the cabinet over the bed and under the furnace. The surface of the fiberglass under the headliner was very wet (I pushed my fingers as far forward as I could past the front face of the cabinet). If it was condensation, I would have expected to see it on the interior side of the headliner and on other surfaces. I used a moisture probe and almost all of the wood was in the 6-10%, which I would expect. It was 30-40% in the damaged areas and then would drop the further away I probed. It was also high at the front of the Maxx fan opening, but not the back or sides, so don't think that's the source of the water showing up at the rear, but it may be a source of the moisture under the furnace.

Anyway, the plan of action is to first stop the water ingress (a tarp will have to do until they can get it into the shop) and then repair the damage. I now have two dehumidifiers, a heater and a fan going to get the interior dry.

As much as I find the whole investigative process interesting, I'd rather be riding my motorcycles.

Scott

 

[Ron in BC]

They were wondering about the cabinet construction and how it attaches to the wall. The cabinets appear to be 1/2" or 3/4" framing with 1/8" paper-faced plywood covering it, but it's not apparent how it attaches.

There strips of wood tabbed to the f.g. shell. The bulkheads are hollow and straddle the strips. You can see the screws that hold the bulkheads on. The bulkheads themselves aren't fiberglassed to the shell.

I'd rather be riding my motorcycles.

Scott

Yah, me too but riding in the cold isn't as much fun as it used to be. I've learned that for everything there is a season.

Good luck on repairs.

 

[riskman]

There strips of wood tabbed to the f.g. shell. The bulkheads are hollow and straddle the strips. You can see the screws that hold the bulkheads on. The bulkheads themselves aren't fiberglassed to the shell.


Yah, me too but riding in the cold isn't as much fun as it used to be. I've learned that for everything there is a season.

Good luck on repairs.

Good to know, I'll look in the morning. I wonder if any of the screws are hidden up under the blinds valance. This is an upgrade trailer from our 1978 Trillium 1300, which we still have, but it sure makes me appreciate the simplicity and durability of fiberglass cabinets glassed directly to the shell.

This time of year is when the road bikes go away and dual sports come out because the forests are open again.

Cheers,
Scott

 

[Nindy]

I have a 2015 17B and originally the solar panels were glued on and some worked their way loose and fell off. So they sent those of us with older trailers some brackets, nuts and bolts, and a tube of sealant with instructions on how to make a more secure installation of our solar panels. It was a little interesting to drill holes in my ceiling but the bolts ended up inside cabinets.

One thing I noticed later was the bolts would get pretty cold in cold weather and condensation would happen.

I can’t remember the date when this happened but here are the instructions we were given. May not apply in your case if it was a later install but something to know perhaps.

 

[Ron in BC]

, but it sure makes me appreciate the simplicity and durability of fiberglass cabinets glassed directly to the shell.

I'd debate you on that view when repairs or mods are required.

One thing I noticed later was the bolts would get pretty cold in cold weather and condensation would happen.

I put a small block of foam on the interior covering the bolt head. The head is on the interior because it's easier to cover with foam than a bolt with extra threads sticking down.

Ron

 

[Nindy]

Good idea on the foam, Ron.

Linda

 

[riskman]

I have a 2015 17B and originally the solar panels were glued on and some worked their way loose and fell off. So they sent those of us with older trailers some brackets, nuts and bolts, and a tube of sealant with instructions on how to make a more secure installation of our solar panels. It was a little interesting to drill holes in my ceiling but the bolts ended up inside cabinets.

One thing I noticed later was the bolts would get pretty cold in cold weather and condensation would happen.

I can’t remember the date when this happened but here are the instructions we were given. May not apply in your case if it was a later install but something to know perhaps.

Thanks Nindy. A future project will be to remove the 35w panel and install a larger panel. I'm hoping a 200w will fit across the back and the bracket bolts be hidden in the cabinets.

Cheers,
Scott