Sail switch from Amazon.

A link would help for the 'David Murphy" modification....
Hey Jim,
What I have on it is shown on page 2 of the following thread: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...r-24122-2.html

David posted one picture, but if you zoom in it is pretty clear what he did, including a small curved wooden vent pipe support on the bottom. If you have more questions about the conversion, please send me a PM and I'll be happy to provide more detail.
 
A link would help for the 'David Murphy" modification....

Hi Jim,
What I have regarding the modification is listed on page 2 of the following thread: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...r-24122-2.html

I just zoomed in on the picture and saw David used a small curved wooden block to support the vent pipe. I found the screen and wire to be pretty straightforward. I used Krylon black paint to paint the wire, but I did not paint the screen material. If you or anyone else has any questions regarding the mod, please feel free to send me a PM.
 
This is the basic idea, you will have to file down the plastic ridges used to grip onto the old flex hose. The parts are in the ductwork section of the hardware store.
 

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Just to clarify that the solution I used from David removes the directional air vent cover from the heater. This is because the airflow from the heater to the vent cover is not straight. So you can certainly keep the vent cover, but to do so you need to be really good working with and manipulating solid wall vent pipes as the hole from the heater and the vent cover don't line up (at least on our 21C).

I found that the increased airflow (from switching from a flex-pipe to a straight pipe) pushes enough warm air around the trailer that I don't see the need for a directional vent. It warms up everywhere pretty fast. Admittedly it does not look as nice without the vent cover, but I find it acceptable.

So if you are not worried about hair or other fibers that might mess up your sail switch, but also want increased air flow, I would switch out the flex pipe and use a solid wall pipe. If you are worried about hair and other stuff getting to the sail switch and you want to add some type of filter for air intake, I found ditching the vent cover to be the easiest solution. It is certainly possible to keep the cover, but it takes more time and other than esthetics, we have not seen the need to keep it.
In either case, I would certainly recommend a solid wall pipe if you have the time and resources to switch it out.
 
To folks new to camping trailers with these furnaces:
1. The sail switch is important when working correctly.
2. This issue is across the small RV spectrum regardless of RV brand.
3. Solutions suggested here are great (especially cleaning), but be prepared to try more than one if needed.
Lastly, I found "Another caveat to the sail switch saga." One that could go easily unnoticed.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9/replacing-sail-swtich-cover-solar-panel-22865.html
 
The Atwood furnace comes up again and again - so I try to pitch in when I am up for it. We've had years of troubles, like many, and followed the "guru's" on this site plus found a local guy who is amazing. He turned up something for us by calling the Atwood people while he was in front of our furnace. My notes: "LAST LOOK BY BILL HALL ON 6/13/2022 — He set the ignitor to 2 qtr width. Bent the sale switch slightly. He did not change his plastic shield that he put up between the door and flame. It has worked perfectly since. BUT warned that the motor is making mild sounds and that a shop would need to completely pull the furnace out in order to fix it. So he is not willing to do that. " So when ours goes - there isn't any other option that will go in our spot - that we have found - but working right now and we capitulated and got the gas buddy as backup. Hope this helps someone. WE NEVER SLEEP WITH THE FURNACE OR BUDDY ON - JUST HAVE A DOWN COMFORTER.
 
The Atwood furnace comes up again and again - so I try to pitch in when I am up for it. We've had years of troubles, like many, and followed the "guru's" on this site plus found a local guy who is amazing. He turned up something for us by calling the Atwood people while he was in front of our furnace. My notes: "LAST LOOK BY BILL HALL ON 6/13/2022 — He set the ignitor to 2 qtr width. Bent the sale switch slightly. He did not change his plastic shield that he put up between the door and flame. It has worked perfectly since. BUT warned that the motor is making mild sounds and that a shop would need to completely pull the furnace out in order to fix it. So he is not willing to do that. " So when ours goes - there isn't any other option that will go in our spot - that we have found - but working right now and we capitulated and got the gas buddy as backup. Hope this helps someone. WE NEVER SLEEP WITH THE FURNACE OR BUDDY ON - JUST HAVE A DOWN COMFORTER.

We have had to clean the sail switch only once in one year of ownership, and we have used the furnace extensively while boondocking, much of that in temps close to freezing. Besides cleaning, this is getting to sound more and more like a "setting and trimming the sail" solution.

By the way, when boondocking we ALWAYS sleep with the furnace set to a comfortably warm setting. But we NEVER sleep with the Buddy Heater on. The Buddy is just for when we're awake and want to save battery after a totally cloudy day.
 
Good to hear.

Excuse my typo above, it a Dometic DFSAD12131.

The furnace runs for 30 seconds then shuts down. I have previously cleaned the sail switch and that worked for quite a while but now it only works for the first time with heat and then it goes back and shuts down after 30 seconds after I remove and replace it with no visible lint or dirt. Hoping it's the micro switch within.
 
Plan on installing it tomorrow. Had my turn in the barrel with Covid so didn't get to it last week. I'll post an update on it.
 
Plan on installing it tomorrow. Had my turn in the barrel with Covid so didn't get to it last week. I'll post an update on it.

Installation was easy breezy. Part fit perfectly. Didn't time myself, but my breakfast burrito didn't get cold so I guess that means it didn't take long.
 
I’m getting ready to pick up my trailer soon decided to go on Amazon and order the sale switch which I see now says” comes with a new bracket fix bugs “in old bracket has anybody I’m across this? Thanks in advance.
 
I’m getting ready to pick up my trailer soon decided to go on Amazon and order the sale switch which I see now says” comes with a new bracket fix bugs “in old bracket has anybody I’m across this? Thanks in advance.

Not sure what they are talking about. the OEM mounting plate I pulled out yesterday is identical to what I received from Amazon. Probably just marketing fluff from the seller.
 
Update: While boondocking, not one, but both of the sail switches I ordered from Amazon failed. This was problematic since we were camping at 8700' and the lows were in the high 30's. I won't go through the gory details but I did my best to trouble shoot to see if it was actually the controller board that was bad.
As a last resort, I saw I still had the OEM Dometic switch in my tool bag, so I figured what the heck and installed it (remember this switch quit working all together back in May). When installing it, I decided to do some wire management. Some of the wires were stretched or under tension, so I unplugged everything I could and cleaned up the wire routing.
Yup, you guessed it. That switch worked flawlessly through the next 7 days of our trip. Still, I am going to order an official Dometic switch and have it as a spare.
 
I would agree with buying the OEM switch from Dometic. When I have called them with a model number I have always been given good service and can be sure I'm getting the correct part. If you know what you are doing, Amazon is fine, but I found it way to easy to order the wrong switch on Amazon. So at least for me it is not worth saving a few $$, especially when you need a heater that works when it is 20-degrees (F) outside.
 

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