Solar install questions

riverplace

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Nov 18, 2012
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grand rapids
I would like to have installed a roof top solar panel on my 2006 17B. Main purpose is to charge AGM battery DC for running water pump, occasional furnace and led lights. Would a 100 watt GoPro panel be sufficient? If so, would a flex panel be a good choice since the roof has some curvature? I could have installers screw into place, would this be better than adhesive? I have a GoPro 90 watt portable solar panel, could this be used with the roof top? Would the 30 amp controller handle both? Since most campsites are back in, would it make more sense to install towards front (hitch side) of trailer? Thanks for any input or advice!
 
My 2011 17B was ordered with a single 100 watt solar panel mounted on the back of the roof & GoPower controller. It supplied all I needed to keep my pair of 6V batteries fully charged until I decided to add a 1500 watt inverter. After adding the inverter and winter camping with short days & low angle sun, I added a portable 160 watt panel. The combination worked well, even in the winter and with me making a 5 cup pot of coffee every day as well as running a toaster a couple times a week (Furnace, water pump, LED lights, etc as well). A couple of years before I sold the 17 and switched to a 21 I added a 100 watt panel to the front of the roof. That resulted in fewer times I needed to set out the portable.

Many solar installers use adhesives to attach rooftop panels mounts rather than bolt or screw through the roof. Properly done it is a safe method. I prefer rigid panels for permanent mounting. While there are some good quality flexible panels, others have failed earlier than expected. Some have complained about heating problems when they are directly attached to the roof; others feel it isn't a problem.

That said, I do sometimes carry a 300 watt portable to add to the 2 160 watt panels on my 21's roof. I generally do not carry a generator.

Since your 90 watt GoPower portable probably already has a controller, I'd wire it directly to the battery rather than to the rooftop controller.
 
Since your 90 watt GoPower portable probably already has a controller, I'd wire it directly to the battery rather than to the rooftop controller.
Agreed. That's what we did with our 130watt portable that already had a controller. Just wired the pigtail to the battery bank and called it good.
 
Very good advice, thank you. I have a cable attachment that lets me plug the portable into the 7 pin plug receptacle, would that work? If I went with a rigid panel, what kind of bracket would I need to mount on roof since it’s not flat? When you say heating problems, are you referring to the adhesive failing in really hot climates? Thanks again!
 
If I went with a rigid panel, what kind of bracket would I need to mount on roof since it’s not flat?
A rigid panel doesn't sit tight against the roof. The bracket is like a short leg, it lifts the panel clear of any curvature. The best installation of brackets is when the holes and bolts are inside overhead storage areas and not visible.
When you say heating problems, are you referring to the adhesive failing in really hot climates? Thanks again!
I mounted a 100W flexible panel and it plus a portable panel met my needs for several years. I used EternaBond tape and it far exceeded my expectations. It was on for about 4 years and looked as good as new when I removed the panel, not because of any problem but because I wanted to try out a 220W bifacial panel.

Some folks worry that the black panel in close contact with the f.g. will create problems both for the panel and the f.g. The area where the panel was looks as good as new and the panel still functions well as a portable panel for a friend.

Ron
 

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My trailer came with the factory 190W panel mounted on aluminum rails that were molded into the roof. I replaced that with a high efficiency 360W panel I got cheap, by adding alum. box section rails to the existing rails to raise the panel a couple inches, this has worked *great*, and has handled 20000 or 30000 miles of traveling all over the place.

silver == original rails, black powder coated == new rails...
PXL_20220313_213702479-X3.jpg

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My trailer came with the factory 190W panel mounted on aluminum rails that were molded into the roof. I replaced that with a high efficiency 360W panel I got cheap, by adding alum. box section rails to the existing rails to raise the panel a couple inches, this has worked *great*, and has handled 20000 or 30000 miles of traveling all over the place.

silver == original rails, black powder coated == new rails...
PXL_20220313_213702479-X3.jpg

PXL_20220313_213532231-X3.jpg


PXL_20220607_032908200-X4.jpg
 
Where did you mount the solar controller inside the trailer? My battery is outside on the back bumper so I’m wondering where would be the best place for controller and then for threading cables to battery?
 
Living in northern MN limits my options for finding experienced installers, so I think I should make this as simple as possible. The flex panel with adhesive seems most simple? Using a cable entry plate for controller cable? Mounting controller where it can be monitored, maybe on cabinet above sink? Then run battery cables through cabinets to back and then down to where tail light wire come in? I’ve never looked for how battery cables enter trailer to panel, but perhaps I can run through same entry?
 
Ideally, you want the solar charge controller close to the battery. Most charge controllers today have Bluetooth communication between it and a smart phone via their app which opens up mounting locations for the controller. I use all Victron but there are others too.

Also, at least with Victron MPPT controllers, current won't flow from the solar panel to the battery unless there is at least a 5.0v differential between the two...so pay attention to the Vmp rating of the panel. Generally this isn't an issue but something to be aware of.

And, if you camp generally between November and March and you can't tilt the panel, the output of the panel(s) will be greatly reduced. This time of year I'm only getting about 30% of what I see from the panels from May-October, and of course fewer hours of solar collection any given day.

After having two Sunpower flexible panels burn up in 2016...no flames but they were definitely "charred"...and rendered useless I opted for rigid panels atop my 15A. I consider Merlin and Lensun best in class for flexible panels although there are probably others on the market too that will last. And, most warranties from solar panel companies, including the likes of Rich Solar, BougeRV, etc., are not worth the paper they're written on...
 
Where did you mount the solar controller inside the trailer? My battery is outside on the back bumper so I’m wondering where would be the best place for controller and then for threading cables to battery?
Escape mounts the solar controller inside the passenger side dinette bench on current 17's.
 

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The battery then must be on the trailer tongue? Mine is on the back bumper. Do you think there is an advantage of having the panel mounted on front of trailer (since most campsites are back in) or on back of trailer, which will be close to battery? No AC on roof, just max fan.
 
Escape mounts the solar controller inside the passenger side dinette bench on current 17's.

yeah,I mounted mine under the center back bench, along with the rest of my electrical panel...

I left the gopower where it was as I didn't want to have to fill the hole it would leave behind.
 
And, most warranties from solar panel companies, including the likes of Rich Solar, BougeRV, etc., are not worth the paper they're written on...
Agreed, at least for Rich Solar. They replaced our 80w flexible panels twice as both times they failed within 2 seasons. The 3rd time they offered another replacement, nothing more! I wasn’t happy.
 
The battery then must be on the trailer tongue? Mine is on the back bumper. Do you think there is an advantage of having the panel mounted on front of trailer (since most campsites are back in) or on back of trailer, which will be close to battery? No AC on roof, just max fan.
Not sure your asking me the above question, but my 17A had the original batteries mounted on the bumper like yours. My batteries are lithium so I moved them under the PS dinette bench. As far as I know, a "U" shaped bench isn't offered in the 17. As fare as the controller location, find a location as close to the batteries as possible. As for panel mounting location is concerned I don't think it matters. You can't always predict the angle of the sun in relation to a campsite unless you've been there before. And there are other factors that can affect solar exposure. The electrical system layout of a 2006 is likely vastly different than a 2022 17.
 

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My trailer came with the factory 190W panel mounted on aluminum rails that were molded into the roof. I replaced that with a high efficiency 360W panel I got cheap, by adding alum. box section rails to the existing rails to raise the panel a couple inches, this has worked *great*, and has handled 20000 or 30000 miles of traveling all over the place.

silver == original rails, black powder coated == new rails...
PXL_20220313_213702479-X3.jpg

PXL_20220313_213532231-X3.jpg


PXL_20220607_032908200-X4.jpg
John,

A BIG thank you for posting this. I've been wondering how I might increase my panel wattage without drilling new holes in my trailer's roof. This (in addition to narrow panels glued to the shell) seems like a very good solution.

Michael
 
My trailer came with the factory 190W panel mounted on aluminum rails that were molded into the roof. I replaced that with a high efficiency 360W panel I got cheap, by adding alum. box section rails to the existing rails to raise the panel a couple inches, this has worked *great*, and has handled 20000 or 30000 miles of traveling all over the place.

silver == original rails, black powder coated == new rails...
PXL_20220313_213702479-X3.jpg

PXL_20220313_213532231-X3.jpg


PXL_20220607_032908200-X4.jpg
John, how did you attach the panel to the roof on the A/C side? In another life, I had a '64 Ford pickup the same color.
 
John, how did you attach the panel to the roof on the A/C side? In another life, I had a '64 Ford pickup the same color.

heh, thats a 1965 f100.

um, its just floating over the roof on that side, but the black riser bars extend out to the front edge of the panel. you can see it in the shadows on the 2nd picture. the rails are wider than the raised portion
 
Would a 100 watt GoPro panel be sufficient? If so, would a flex panel be a good choice since the roof has some curvature?
I'm in week three of winter camping, and so can report that 100W may not be enough outside of summer. My 100Wh Lithium battery went flat after about five days in winter, with a couple rainy mornings, and I have 180W of solar on the roof. If you just camp in sunnier times of year, or only off-grid for a couple days, you may be fine.

My installation of flexible panels is documented here. It's a relatively simple install, and I give the full parts list and photos. Also documents a failure and how I addressed it in the second take.

Don't use the 7-pin as input for your solar panel, the small wires and long run wire will lose a lot of energy.
 

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