Solar/lithium power dilemma: not enough bang for our bucks!

medora

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
380
Location
Three Oaks, Michigan
Hi all, I’m hoping you wise folks can advise me on a vexing solar/power related question.

I have a 2012 17B which we modified last year because we could no longer deal with our teeny bed. Essentially, we took out the fridge and extended the bed using a lagun table. It works GREAT and we’re thriiled with it — the space is more open and everything is just more livable.

There’s just one problem: we replaced the fridge with two Dometic CFX coolers, one small one that sits either outside, or inside on the front dinette seat — and for longer trips, a second, dual-chamber unit we keep either outside or in the car. When we did this, we upgraded our solar (300W total on top now) and went to lithium (2 100Ah LITime batteries), using a Victron controller and shunt we got through (sadly now defunct) AM Solar.

We were confident we had enough capacity - but alas, that is not proving to be the case. Our campsites have not been super sunny - but even in full sun for 6 hours a day in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan last week, we were blowing through batteries and reliant on a Honda generator that we had to run hours on end to recharge. Depressing!

We primarily boondock and often take long trips of 7-12 days in one spot. Our longest trip of the year is usually to Ontario (Killarney, Lake Superior Provincial, Pukasawa), in mid-late September, so not peak-summer sun. The only unusual draw on our system are the coolers. We do not have alternator charging. We wouldn’t mind running the generator every so often, but it feels like we’ve got to do it almost every day after we’ve camped for a few days - if not every day, then for multiple hours the day after. The whole idea of the panel upgrade etc was to avoid that. We’re getting a max of 131W from the 300W of panels on a sunny day … which seems low!!

I am new to solar/lithium/etc and am struggling to figure out the best way forward.

Here’s what I’m considering:

1. Adding a third (or fourth?) 100ah battery. This would majorly suck as it was incredibly hard to fit the first two batteries in the hatch area - we’d have to expand out under the bed, and right now we’re using that for storage with a custom-made pull out unit. We’d have to cut that unit down to fit additional batteries, and it would be a real pain in the rump. Additionally, I’m worried that while we’d benefit from the larger battery bank for the first days, eventually we wouldn’t recharge fast enough and we’d still be in the same boat.

2. Adding a Bluetti power bank with a 30AMP outlet . This would increase battery capacity without the pain in the rumpus of adding more 100ah batteries under the bed. But the cost of a Bluetti is higher than adding batteries, and again there's the issue of this not charging back up again (though I suppose we could charge a portable Bluetti during a drive and/or at a coffeeshop etc)

3. Adding the Bluetti with portable solar panels (100W? 200?), which would allow us to move panels to get more sun. We could then plug the trailer in to the Bluetti when things aren’t charging via the roof panels. This would probably help, but I’m not sure how much … and I’m not sure whether the portable panels are magnets for thieves, whether we have to stash these every time it rains, and/or how long a cable we can use without wattage loss. And the biggest downside — even more $$$$$ when we’ve already put a lot of cash into this. There does seem to be a tax credit on these in the US right now if I use in the house as well, which I definitely would … might make the cost a little less depressing.

4. Giving up and just learning to love my Honda generator

I’m also not sure if there are better/lower power consumption options for electric coolers … the Dometics are ok but I’ve had problems with thermostats and they’re definitely using more AH than I thought they would (I’m trying to figure out how to assess exactly how much using the stats on the Victron shunt app — if anyone knows how to assess I’d love a tip).

I would LOVE your input on all this, fellow Escapees! And I’d be thrilled if any of you have any additional tips or resources that will help me work through this.

Best from SW MIchigan,

Elizabeth
 
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I think the first step is to do the math. You need to figure out how many Kilowatt Hours (KWh) your coolers use in a 24 hour period, and then you can decide what your options are for extending your runtime.


The Victron shunt should be able to tell you how much power you're consuming over a given period.


Apart from that, one big cooler is likely to be significantly more efficient than two smaller ones. That's because the amount of energy used is proportional to the surface area of the cooler(s), not the internal volume. The bigger the cooler, the bigger the volume compared to the outside surface area.
 
Stats from Victron app (10:16 PM ET, so pretty close to closing time for the day):

Average Discharge -144Ah (at 12.8V =1.843 kWh)
Consumed Ah -47.0 Ah
Power -69W (both coolers running)
 
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Portable panels can help, but you either have to be in camp with them, or risk having them walk off. They work because you can point them at the sun.
 
Stats from Victron app (10:16 PM ET, so pretty close to closing time for the day):

Average Discharge -144Ah (at 12.8V =1.843 kWh)
Consumed Ah -47.0 Ah
Power -69W (both coolers running)

is that -144AH the average for 24 hours, or what? thats a lot, I've been running about -40AH (510 WH) a day running my N2175 compressor freezer/fridge, lighting, ventilation fan, and some heat, water pump for night time toilet flushing.

I have a Dometic CFX3 75DZ, 75 liter dual zone compressor cooler that we used when our RV fridge died until we settled on getting the Norcold N2175 and installing it. I mostly ran it on my diesel pickup's dual group 65 batteries, with a 100W portable solar panel any time i wasn't moving the truck for over a day, and never had any problem. Right now, its acting as a home 'beer box', set quite cold, plugged into AC and its drawing about 380 watts-hours/day. Its about 50 watts when its running, and 15-16 watts averaged over a couple hours.
 
The Victron app isn’t user friendly (at least not for a relative newbie). I’m guessing the relevant number is -47Ah and that the 144 Ah represents cumulative drain over the last cycle (and how they define cycle is confounding to me too).

If I’m right the 24 hour Ah total would be a little higher than 47 as that was about 10:30 pm last night. I’ll try to confirm this. I’m thinking I may just reset the numbers (after I try to download the data that’s in the app) to get fresh data. I’ll also post to the Victron boards to see if anyone can advise on how to just get a simple 24 hour Ah reading.

It’s going to be incredibly hot here the next few days (mid to upper 90s F) - that does affect solar, correct? And I suspect the coolers will be running harder as well.

BTW - is it possible to simply add an input for additional portable panels that ties into the main trailer system?
 
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You need to figure out why your solar max's out at 131 watts. That's way too low for the max for 300 watts on your roof. Our 170 watt rooftop panel maxed out around 145-150 watts. After adding three 100 watt panels to the roof we maxed out at 425 watts. Our current setup of 600 watts has maxed out at 590 watts a number of times. Something is definitely wrong with your setup.

Then there's you 141 ah daily discharge. Perhaps your coolers are just inefficient, you have a phantom draw, or you have another large draw you've forgotten to mention. Turn off your solar, and start disconnecting items one at a time while also looking at the ah draw on your shunt to find any inefficient items. Once all items are accounted for you draw for basic items (LP sensor, readouts, etc. should be around one amp an hour.

However, fix your solar first. It's already purchased and installed. How is your solar installed? Components? Do your panels match? Use a multimeter to check each panels output individually. Inspect and check each solar connection.

Food for thought,

Perry
 
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Thanks Perry. The 3 100w panels are in series - two new ones up front, the original from 2012 in back. I don’t know if the older panel could be causing a problem? Or if I’d be better with parallel wiring? How would I even go about figuring out the issue with the current system?

The numbers currently reflect full sun at home. It’s almost always gonna be worse when we camp given that the sites usually are partially shaded.

And again - the 141 ah I think is the number through a “cycle” - it’s probably more like 50.
 
Thanks Perry. The 3 100w panels are in series - two new ones up front, the original from 2012 in back. I don’t know if the older panel could be causing a problem? Or if I’d be better with parallel wiring? How would I even go about figuring out the issue with the current system?

The numbers currently reflect full sun at home. It’s almost always gonna be worse when we camp given that the sites usually are partially shaded.

And again - the 141 ah I think is the number through a “cycle” - it’s probably more like 50.

I would disconnect the older panel and PARALLEL the new ones to see what happens. Not all panels are compatible. I think you're refencing watt hours instead of amp hours.
 
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I can do this - but may need to wait until after this heat subsides mid week. I’m guessing there are videos on how to change wiring to parallel but if you have specific suggestions I’m game. AM Solar was insistent btw that the old panel would be fine in this setup (that’s why I didnt just replace it with one 300w) but …???
 
I can do this - but may need to wait until after this heat subsides mid week. I’m guessing there are videos on how to change wiring to parallel but if you have specific suggestions I’m game. AM Solar was insistent btw that the old panel would be fine in this setup (that’s why I didnt just replace it with one 300w) but …???
With series you have positive to negative. Increases voltage but keeps amps the same. Parallel positive to positive negative to negative. Keeps same voltage increase amps. That old panel may not be an issue but that's where I would start. Also if you don't have a multimeter I would get one. Lots of YouTube videos on how to use them. Get addicted to YouTube videos about RV electrical especially solar. This learning process won't be quick or easy but it should be interesting.
Heat? You should live in a South Carolia swamp.
 
It’s supposed to be 98 here with high humidity on Tuesday. Getting close today. Your swamp may be cooler, oye!

Anyway - another thing to note that my pal is wondering about. Our Honda generator takes 6 hours to bring us from 10% to 100%. He thinks that’s inordinately long. Thoughts?
 
One thing you can do with a multimeter is test the output of each panel. Let's say each panel is averaging 5-6 amps then the Victron should be indicating somewhere around that total. If one panel is significantly off you may have identified the issue. I personally would be reluctant to invest in batteries or whatever until I identified the problem. I have two 50 watt on the roof paralleled for 100 to a separate controller. Then a 110 and 100 portable panels each to individual controllers. I get around 15-17 amps from this setup. The output from the three controllers is paralleled to a solar bus bar. Cost wise not the best setup but allows me to use incompatible panels.
 
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...Anyway - another thing to note that my pal is wondering about. Our Honda generator takes 6 hours to bring us from 10% to 100%. He thinks that’s inordinately long. Thoughts?
What model Honda generator (need to know its rated output)?

You are plugging your shore-power cord into the generator, is that correct?
______________

Not mentioned in this thread but just to be sure ..... do you have an inverter for powering 120V appliances using battery power in your trailer?
 
Oye!! So I braved the heat, moved the camper into its “hut” - disconnected the old panel and connected the two new ones into the line going into the camper. Pulled her out into the 94 degree day and got a big fat zero on my victron solar controller app - no input. Photos attached - what on earth did i do wrong?

(I know one of you suggested i try the new panels in parallel, but this seemed like an easier first step - hahahahahaha).

The gen is a Honda EU2200i. We plug in via shore power (30 amp camper plug to two prong adaptor). And no inverter.

Photos are first, connection prior to me messing with it (old panel is in the photo - the new panels are on the front of camper off camera) -
Second photo is after I removed the old panel from the chain.
 

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If your "Hut" is an overhead cover that shades the trailer from the sun, then testing your solar system will be a failure, as the solar panels will not be generating any voltage or current.
 
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And per testing panels with meter - where would I test? At the connector?
https://youtu.be/q6r93_1lXKk?t=10

Paralleling panels


This guy does about as good a job as anybody in explaining this stuff. Select his channel then select videos and you may answer many of your questions. He does a good job with verbal explanation but also some very helpful diagrams. I would also search additional instruction sources and you might find someone whose instruction you prefer. Initially some of this stuff will be confusing but if you stay with it, it will clear up sooner than you expect. Like I mentioned before these guys are a lot better explaining this stuff than me.
 
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Also if you don't have a multimeter I would get one. Lots of YouTube videos on how to use them.

Should be the first item to go in the toolbox.

So many of the problems folks have posted over the years could have been isolated in minutes had the person owned a multimeter.

With the ever increasing amounts of electrical stuff folks are adding I'd say that the need for a multi-meter has increased.

Ron
 

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