Soon-To-Be Escape Owner Looking for Advice on Solar/Batteries

[Sean Murry]

The BMS system in the Battle Born Batteries will not allow the batteries to be charged below -3.9 degrees C, but you can discharge up to -20 C. This hasn't been an issue for us as we don't often camp in really cold weather. If we start with 100% SOC then we can last several days without charging. Hopefully at some time of the day it would be above -3.9 to allow some charging. We have camped at Manning Park when it was -20, but in the new winter campground at Manning they have plug in services, so while the batteries wouldn't receive a charge, we still had full electrical inside the trailer via the plug in. Water is another issue at those temperatures, so we went dry. No water on board except bottled water etc

 

[Sean Murry]

On the issue of generators, I must plead a bit guilty. I too hate generators, but at times I carry one especially on the shoulder seasons when the sun is low in the sky and not as much solar is being generated. Having said that in over 4 years I have used my Honda 2000 generator twice, for about 2 hours each time. In most Provincial and Federal Government campsites, the generating times are restricted to a couple of hours in the morning and a couple of hours in the early evening. But with the roof top and portables it is seldom necessary. With me adding a separate controller for my portables I am hoping to eliminate the generator completely. We shall see

 

[Ron in BC]

I admit it, I like maximum bang for my buck.

I've never understood folks buying very pricey portable panels when a lightweight flexible panel does the job and costs much less.

On my 19 it did triple duty. It was carried on a bracket over the tongue box. Not the most ideal location but it was putting out more amps than if it was stored inside. It could go up on a pole and be oriented to catch maximum rays and it could be moved away from the trailer to get out of shade.

My 21 panel does quadruple duty. It's carried on a quick release bracket on my rear box, again not ideal for max amps but putting out more than if it was stored. It also can go up on the pole for max capture of sun and it can also be moved away from the trailer to get out of shade. Additionally, it can be used to charge my trolling motor and kayak batteries.

It has it's own controller and power from it goes via an SAE plug to the trailer batteries or the independent batteries.

Ron

 

[iamunique127]

I admit it, I like maximum bang for my buck.

I've never understood folks buying very pricey portable panels when a lightweight flexible panel does the job and costs much less.

On my 19 it did triple duty. It was carried on a bracket over the tongue box. Not the most ideal location but it was putting out more amps than if it was stored inside. It could go up on a pole and be oriented to catch maximum rays and it could be moved away from the trailer to get out of shade.

My 21 panel does quadruple duty. It's carried on a quick release bracket on my rear box, again not ideal for max amps but putting out more than if it was stored. It also can go up on the pole for max capture of sun and it can also be moved away from the trailer to get out of shade. Additionally, it can be used to charge my trolling motor and kayak batteries.

It has it's own controller and power from it goes via an SAE plug to the trailer batteries or the independent batteries.

Ron

Ron

All very appealing. Admittedly, I'm not very knowledgeable about solar panels so I have some questions:

-is that the lightweight flexible panel you mention? It appears to be rigid and have a frame.

-did you make or buy the tilting, pole-mount bracket?

-I've been tempted to start carrying a generator for my 24V trolling motor batteries since the reading I've done suggests it is not feasible to charge them fast enough with a solar panel. What is your experience charging yours with solar?

 

[GinoandLinda]

I admit it, I like maximum bang for my buck.

I've never understood folks buying very pricey portable panels when a lightweight flexible panel does the job and costs much less.

On my 19 it did triple duty. It was carried on a bracket over the tongue box. Not the most ideal location but it was putting out more amps than if it was stored inside. It could go up on a pole and be oriented to catch maximum rays and it could be moved away from the trailer to get out of shade.

My 21 panel does quadruple duty. It's carried on a quick release bracket on my rear box, again not ideal for max amps but putting out more than if it was stored. It also can go up on the pole for max capture of sun and it can also be moved away from the trailer to get out of shade. Additionally, it can be used to charge my trolling motor and kayak batteries.

It has it's own controller and power from it goes via an SAE plug to the trailer batteries or the independent batteries.

Ron

I see what you did there, Ron. Nice work. I can't tell if you have rooftop solar or not. To me that makes the difference. I have two panels plus the DC-DC so I have no need to rig up bracketry for a panel while I travel. That being said, I am going to have to come up with a pole solution because Santa is probably going to drop down the chimney with a Starlink. I'll need to design a pole to elevate it while camping.

 

[Perry Butler]

For two winters we played with the 170 watt panel on the roof and a 100 watt portable. Over time I got sick and tired of constantly deploying the portable for charging and then putting it away for travel.

Then I realized I could add three 100 watt panels in parallel with our existing 170 watt panel for 463 watts, only losing 7 watts for the very slight mismatch. Once we had the 463 watts available, the portable was never needed again. However, Murphy said we own it so bring it just in case, so it was idle weight, but fit perfectly underneath the top step leading to the 5.0's bed. The only time it was moved out of the step was when we sold the 5.0.

Once adequate panels are installed on the roof you're golden, unless you're Johnny Hung. A 19 can easily carry 400 or more watts on the roof.

Food for thought,

Perry

 

[Ron in BC]

-is that the lightweight flexible panel you mention? It appears to be rigid and have a frame.

-did you make or buy the tilting, pole-mount bracket?

-I've been tempted to start carrying a generator for my 24V trolling motor batteries since the reading I've done suggests it is not feasible to charge them fast enough with a solar panel. What is your experience charging yours with solar?

I can't tell if you have rooftop solar or not. To me that makes the difference. I have two panels plus the DC-DC so I have no need to rig up bracketry for a panel while I travel. That being said, I am going to have to come up with a pole solution because Santa is probably going to drop down the chimney with a Starlink. I'll need to design a pole to elevate it while camping.

I have one 100W flexible panel on the roof. It does fine for our usage because after years of offshore boating we're not power hogs. It's mounted with AmeraBond, great stuff. I might add a second panel, they're getting so cheap. How can I not.

The flexible panel is rigid enough to be used "as is" for most portable uses. For being able to hoist it high in the sky I added a 1/16" x 3/4" x 3/4" frame. Still under 5 lbs. and easy to hoist. I did use a conventional panel on the 19 and it was pretty heavy to hoist on the pole.

When the sun is low in the sky the ability to tilt the panel really comes into its' own.

I made a sturdy bracket but U bolts could be used instead. I'd try the Starlink first. We just installed one at a place that I volunteer at, far up a valley between 2 mountains and tall trees. It sits on the ground and does just fine. That being said, I do use a pole for my TV antenna, in that case higher is better.

As far as charging trolling motors goes I guess it depends on how much you need to recharge. I typically fish on small lakes and am only trolling on a low motor setting. If I had to blast miles down a lake at max speed my needs would be different.

Ron

 

[DT6]

As you have ordered a 19, the batteries are usually placed in the cargo box, so you may want to discuss this with Escape and ask if you have any size limitations. I think some owners of the 19 have moved their batteries inside under the dinette.

Secondly, spend the extra $$ and buy your batteries from a known vendor who will support you. We made the mistake of buying directly from SOK. When we had an issue, the support was terrible. Fortunately we got the issue resolved, but it was a real hassle. SOK batteries are great, and so are Battleborn. You can purchase either from Current Connected (https://www.currentconnected.com/product/sok-sk12v206-lifepo4-battery/) and from what I hear they provide great support.

We currently have two 100Ah SOK batteries, but if I had to do it over again I would either purchase (from Current Connected) two of the 200Ah SOK batteries or I'd buy the 270Ah Battleborn (either the GameChanger or the 8D - whichever fit better). We get by with 200Ah but I'd like more in reserve for those times where you might have several very cloudy/rainy days in a row.

Finally, add a shutoff switch so you are not charge cycling your batteries with solar every day you are not using the trailer.

Good luck.

 

[iamunique127]

I have one 100W flexible panel on the roof.......

Ron

Thanks for all the info, Ron.

 

[Dave Miller]

I picked up my E19 this summer with a compressor fridge and the standard LA battery. Spent 4 nights off grid and had to run my 2200 watt inverter gen 30 minutes in the morning and 30 in the evening (9am and 7:30 PM). Hope to never need it again. I installed two 230AH lithium, a 200 watt portable solar, and have 520 watts for the roof - waiting for warm weather to mount them.)

I did my own batteries and solar. I did have Escape add the wiring with the rooftop connection.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

I have a single 360W panel on the roof of my E21c (replacing the original 160W panel), and replaced the two GC 6v batts with 2x206AH lithium batteries under the back bench seat... This gives us 5200 watt hours of juice. Easily runs our DC compressor fridge, can dry camp for a week plus with no sun.

 

[CE Vogel]

Hearing lots of support for lithium batteries. In particular, CE Vogel and Sean Murry, sounds like you both have and are very happy with your lithium batteries. Since we live in similar climates when it comes to winter weather and temperatures, how do you handle the issue of charging/storing and/or potentially using them during the shoulder or off season when temps can drop to 0 Celsius or below?

My batteries are located in an interior compartment, so they are somewhat protected from temperature extremes. My battery BMS will, and has, disabled charge in sub-freezing weather. I was still able to run lights, furnace, etc., as the BMS will not disable discharge until 0 degrees F, and I don't camp when it's that cold. The BMS automatically resumed charge once the batteries warmed above freezing. Some batteries have self heaters (mine don't), but be aware the heaters only work when charging current is available, and the batteries will start charging only after the heaters have warmed the batteries sufficiently. That may not be very practical when utilizing only solar charging while in shade.

 

[Red-ESC]

We would really appreciate any insights from other owners in terms of their experience with usage similar to what we expect. And, in particular, from those who have and use the lithium battery/solar option that we are considering. And, finally, if anyone has had other issues/failures with lithium batteries that are important to consider.

Welcome to the Escape owners community. We enjoy camping on Vancouver Island including several trips this year with a stop at Thunderbird RV. I would like a shot at joining the Tyee club.

Our five year old 19 is similarly equipped to your order and our use pattern is also the same. I chose not to have solar panels installed on the roof and went with a portable 100 watt panel. The panel came with a controller that I leave connected to the twin 6 volt lead acid batteries located in the front storage bin. The solar panel plugs directly into the controller when I need it otherwise it is stored under the bed or in the truck. We don't have A/C or use any appliances that require an inverter. We usually boondock for 4 - 5 days and never experience any power issues. The solar panel will easily keep the batteries charged even when running the furnace all night. The key is to keep the panel pointed toward the sun during the day. I use a long extension (approximately 20 feet) so I can move it to find that open spot. I did buy two 100watt panels but have never found a need to connect the second panel so it stays at home. The batteries are now 5 years old and show no signs of degradation. I check them annually and top off with distilled water as necessary. The trailer is plugged in all winter, it keeps the batteries charged and I run a small electric heater set on a low temperature. The fridge is a conventional 3 way that is mostly on propane and has given zero problems. I note that you are installing a second max fan. We only have one and it is awesome. I am not sure two fans would do a significantly better job of moving air or cooling a small trailer.

The main reasons we chose not to install roof panels and lithium batteries was the rapidly changing and improving technology, the shade issue and high cost for limited return based on our needs. If I was ordering today I would still go portable and use a pole like Ron. Lithium batteries would be a cost benefit exercise.

On a recent trip to Ucluelet our son loaned us one of his portable power packs so we could watch TV in bed. It easily ran our 21 inch TV for an hour or two each night and charged quickly the next day. That maybe a future direction of us.

 

[Eggscape]

We also live in BC and search out shade to stay cool while we are camping. We also don’t have an inverter or any major draws other than the furnace in the off season.

We use a 180 watt panel as our portable along with an external controller. The controller plugs into the 7 pin trailer plug to charge the batteries that are only a few feet away. Between the controller and the panel we use a combination of heavy duty AC cords we always carry.

Our entire solar system that I can use to charge our trailer, our daughters trailer or the brother in laws, cost about $250

Right now on Amazon you can get a 200 watt panel for $180 if you apply the $40 off coupon.

You can see in the link below a full explanation and pictures done over a few posts.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8/modifications-to-eggscape-12918-33.html#post391458

 

[scottarue]

Yeah, sorry for being the one to bring up the generator thing. Maybe I can make up for it. Check out this portable panel sold by Princess Auto. It's the one I have. It has its own controller and can plug into the trailer wiring thru the 7-pin connector. Being large, is pretty heavy though.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/180w-portable-monocrystalline-folding-solar-kit/product/PA0009067455

Thanks for your reference to the Princess Auto solar kit. I think this is exactly what I am looking for. I followed your link. Their page says the application is "Charges 12V lead-acid batteries directly from the sun." Does this mean it will not work with lithium batteries? I am getting 2-100watt solar panels and 4-100ah lithium batteries in the Escape I ordered and need something that is compatible with that.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

Thanks for your reference to the Princess Auto solar kit. I think this is exactly what I am looking for. I followed your link. Their page says the application is "Charges 12V lead-acid batteries directly from the sun." Does this mean it will not work with lithium batteries? I am getting 2-100watt solar panels and 4-100ah lithium batteries in the Escape I ordered and need something that is compatible with that.

remove the solar controller that comes with that, and wire the panel directly to the solar controller provided by Escape, which you probably can do via the Zamp port Escape can provide. you'll just need to put a SAE connector on the end of a cable wired directly to the panel output.

 

[Lawrence A]

Thanks for your reference to the Princess Auto solar kit. I think this is exactly what I am looking for. I followed your link. Their page says the application is "Charges 12V lead-acid batteries directly from the sun." Does this mean it will not work with lithium batteries? I am getting 2-100watt solar panels and 4-100ah lithium batteries in the Escape I ordered and need something that is compatible with that.

Oooh, yeah, I think that could be a problem alright. The controller that comes with the portable panel does not have the ability to select type of battery. I see John in Santa Cruz has also responded, so I'd go with his advice. You'd have to feel comfortable with removing or bypassing the controller on the portable though.

Lawrence

 

[CE Vogel]

Thanks for your reference to the Princess Auto solar kit. I think this is exactly what I am looking for. I followed your link. Their page says the application is "Charges 12V lead-acid batteries directly from the sun." Does this mean it will not work with lithium batteries? I am getting 2-100watt solar panels and 4-100ah lithium batteries in the Escape I ordered and need something that is compatible with that.

You could use the kit as delivered, but it won't fully charge your lithium batteries. It won't hurt them, either. John's idea is best, provided the solar controller has the capacity to manage your rooftop panels and your portable panel.

 

[Ron in BC]

That's expensive per watt. A couple of semi-flexible panels would cost about half that and weight much less.

Ron

 

[GinoandLinda]

You could use the kit as delivered, but it won't fully charge your lithium batteries. It won't hurt them, either. John's idea is best, provided the solar controller has the capacity to manage your rooftop panels and your portable panel.

If you look at the specification table, it shows it's compatible with LifePO4 batteries.