Starlink cable port

[gjsheldon]

I just got my Starlink RV dishy and am wondering if anyone has figured out a very clean way to create a wire passthrough hole for the cable connection. My router will reside in the upper cabinet just to the right of the front door on our 2021 5.0. We elected to have ETI install the full height cabinet (no middle counter deck to collect clutter) so the ideal position for the wire port would be low and just to the right of the entry door to allow me to coil the extra wire inside the lower part of the cabinet. Because this is a proprietary cable I have to be able to deploy and retrieve it with the existing end connector which requires a ¾-1" pass-through opening. When it's coiled inside the cabinet the port needs to be "closable" so bugs can't get in. Ideally is would have some type of seal around the cable even when it is deployed and connected to the satellite dish. Open to all thoughts and suggestions!

 

[brain]

I saw this posting on the Ford Transit van forum. Maybe you can get some ideas here:
https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/starlink-van-install.91404/

 

[gjsheldon]

I saw this posting on the Ford Transit van forum. Maybe you can get some ideas here:
https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/starlink-van-install.91404/

Thanks. There are a number of DIY posts on various forums where people are “hacking” the proprietary cable and adding modified POE injectors with CAT 5 or CAT 6 wire terminals. This is way above my pay-grade and I’m trying to find a solution that doesn’t require voiding the warranty on this expensive piece of equipment. Having a cable “portal” would also allow me to only deploy the length of the 75’ cable that is required for clear line-of-sight positioning.

 

[LRL]

One option to consider is that nothing needs to be indoors. The router can be sitting outside of the trailer and will work just fine from inside the trailer. This is what I'm currently doing. I plug into a 110 outlet on the outside of the trailer and place the router anywhere near the trailer.

 

[brain]

Any way to start at the router location cabinet and run the Starlink dishy cable (with the smaller connector end) intact to the propane tank area? Then just leave the cable coiled up inside there when traveling?

 

[gjsheldon]

One option to consider is that nothing needs to be indoors. The router can be sitting outside of the trailer and will work just fine from inside the trailer. This is what I'm currently doing. I plug into a 110 outlet on the outside of the trailer and place the router anywhere near the trailer.

This is true but I specifically had ETI prewire the right of doorway upper cabinet for all electronics (cell booster amplifier (2 antenna locations wired in), Apple TV, Starlink, etc) so would like to use that (if possible) so I don't have as much setup/breakdown effort. What I didn't research and anticipate was the size and proprietary nature of the Starlink connection. Call me somewhat lazy.

Any way to start at the router location cabinet and run the Starlink dishy cable (with the smaller connector end) intact to the propane tank area? Then just leave the cable coiled up inside there when traveling?

Thanks, That's a possible solution that I hadn't thought of but I would still like to have some type of "grommeted" solution for a cable pass-through, even from the propane tank compartment. I'll definitely keep this idea in mind if no other solution arises.

 

[Grasshog]

This is true but I specifically had ETI prewire the right of doorway upper cabinet for all electronics (cell booster amplifier (2 antenna locations wired in), Apple TV, Starlink, etc) so would like to use that (if possible) so I don't have as much setup/breakdown effort. What I didn't research and anticipate was the size and proprietary nature of the Starlink connection. Call me somewhat lazy.



Thanks, That's a possible solution that I hadn't thought of but I would still like to have some type of "grommeted" solution for a cable pass-through, even from the propane tank compartment. I'll definitely keep this idea in mind if no other solution arises.

Try looking in the marine magazines VHF antenna wire passes through The exterior of my boat Might be called a cat's eye Just fits over the wire And you can get them in stainless steel They actually don't look bad

 

[Keith3]

What about the mouse hole doors ETI uses for permanently installed power cords? A bit larger than needed, but should work. Maybe there is a smaller version available somewhere.

 

[brroberts]

Lots of marine and RV waterproof deck fittings. Too many to list all of the links. Try this for a selection.

https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?name=marine-cable-pass-throughs&path=-1|328|2289986&id=2289996

 

[Ron in BC]

What about the mouse hole doors ETI uses for permanently installed power cords? A bit larger than needed, but should work. Maybe there is a smaller version available somewhere.

That's what I did. I cut the interior back off and mounted it at the rear with access from the dinette locker. I have a multitude of cables, wi-fi amplifier, cell phone amplifier, TV cable etc. that come and go as needed. Easy to pass cables out, close the main flap and only have the small gate open with the cables.

Ron

 

[gjsheldon]

Thanks to everyone for all the great suggestions.

I thought the marine "clam" ports might be the answer but most of these seem to be designed for a "fixed" single instance cable pass-thru (rather than in and out deployment at each camp site location). Perhaps I missed some that were more versatile and would hold up to regular in & out use. The idea of the power cable hatch got me thinking that this could be a solution with the versatility I'm looking for. I chose to use SmartPlug power and coax ports on the exterior with my 5.0 build (I installed the SmartPlug 30A power port after picking it up). So I've ordered another SmartPlug coax port and plan modify it with a "gland type" rubber ferrel to seal around the cable when it's deployed and still allow easy in and out access for the larger dishy end connector. Definitely a pricier solution than some other options out there but this will also keep the exterior "look" consistent with the other cable and power ports. Pictures to follow when the project is completed (assuming it works).

 

[Colorado Kirk]

There’s always an option like this one…

https://www.mencom.com/port-adapter-with-rj45-in-a-m25-housing-ul508a-ul50-ul50e.html

 

[StillCampin-ESC]

My 2019 E5.0 has the small hatch into the lower cabinet of that stack that lets me bring in a propane hose for my Wave 6 heater and now my Starlink cable. I then come out the inside lower door and up thru the door into the upper cabinet. I may or may not do like many others with Starlink and cut the cable, put on shielded connectors and install a shielded bulkhead connector somewhere with the inside wiring staying connected.

The landing gear area, accessed via the propane tank area, provides a wiring route into the lower cabinet.

I happen to have power cable hatches into that space on each side of the propane door that may allow me to run the unmodified cable into the trailer. I would just want to add another hatch for closing off the entry into the cabinet itself.