Swapped the rear split window for the new acrylic window

AuthorSP

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2021
Messages
250
Location
Portland
Our 2023 5.0 didn't have the option for the new acrylic windows, so we got the frameless split window for the rear window. After hearing about a fair number of issues with the frameless windows, and not being particularly happy with the view through it (dark and the bar down the middle), or the limited opening ability, and especially with the cheap screens that didn't seal the window and let in small bugs, we decided to order an acrylic rear window from ETI. They shipped it promptly, but it took a while for me to put it in, mostly from trial and error and limited free time. It is now in and we're very happy with it!

Love our new rear acrylic window! Love that it's lighter, love the clearer view, the ability to open all the way, love the blinds/screen system!


Many thanks to Johnny Hung for pioneering the way, though it turns out there are some differences between what he installed and what ETI sent me. I thought it would be the same as the Arctic Tern window, and it's also similar, but these are made in China and have some differences.









I can only upload 8 pictures at a time, so I'll add more in the comment.


1: Original window


2: Removed the valance, screens and blinds (not easy to release from the hooks).


3: Test fit. These windows are flat on the outside, not a bubble like some other models. I like that.
The window is slightly smaller, but the frame will cover the cutout. The window came with butyl tape sealer around the edge, but it was dirty, so I removed it and added new tape.



4: Inside fit look. Love that wide open view.
There are 5 closing locks. The handles have two settings. All the way tight in seals the window. But there is a second tab, so that if you lock them in the middle, you get a thin gap that could be good for allowing airflow while you drive without worrying about the window flapping.
The two arms have tabs that hold the window open by pressure (grabbing the bar), so you can set them at any opening height.



5: The cutout after removing the glass window.


6: The acrylic windows need a 3/4" thickness for the frame to grab onto. The glass window uses a much thinner frame, so you have to remove the old frame. It separates easily, just go slow and careful.


7: The original thin frame, removed.


8: The frame I created out of 1"x2" (3/4"x1 1/2" actual) poplar. They say not to use plywood, as it is not stiff enough.
I used 1 1/2" corner braces inside the frame. Don't do that. I had to remove them because they prevented the inner metal frame ring from setting properly against the window frame. They're handy for getting it in place and gluing to the shell, though.


More to come...
 

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(Continued)
9: Clean off the bits of plywood frame left behind. You'll also have to trim back that white insulation foam, as well as the fuzzy black foam backing from the wall fabric. The black foam actually separates very easily from the fabric. Just run your finger along between them.


10: The wooden frame compared to the window cutout. There's a problem...


11: This might just be a problem with the 5.0 because of the cabinet above the window. It turns out that I had to use a table saw and cut almost half an inch off along the top of the frame so that the frame would go up enough to let the bottom of the frame be level with the bottom edge of the cutout.


12: Scrap wood to show where the frame should sit in the window and how much foam to remove. Johnny had a good point that he set the window to be flush at the bottom so that the wood and fiberglass shell carry the weight of the window and will prevent shifting downward.


13: Scrap wood to show spacing above.


14: Frame is in place and fits. I still haven't figured out that I'll need to remove those braces.

(More to come)
 

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(Continued)
15: Gluing the frame to the shell. Extra piece of wood outside the shell for even pressure (Thanks, Johnny).


16: New window in place. Looking good. No gaps. The butyl tape seals and makes it stick to the body.


17: Finally realized the ring wouldn't set right because of the braces and removed those. Inner ring goes flat against the window frame and sandwiches the wooden frame. Now I use the screws they sent and go around, alternating sides until they are snug, but not overly tight.


18: New problem discovered. I can't get this screen frame to grab onto the little plastic prongs on the inner frame.


19: This is where I found that I had to remove some of the gray fuzzy foam from around the wall material. It made the edges of the material too bulky for the frame to grab the prongs. I then used tape to get the wall material to seal to the window frame. I'll need to revisit this.


20: And, finally, done! Well, enough for normal use. I need to find a better way to get the wall fabric to seal against the window frame. I was also a little too rough with it, so it wrinkled. I'm going to see if I can smooth that out with a hair dryer. I'll probably also put the valance back, though it isn't necessary.
It was some work and some trial and error, but very worth it! Love this window so much more than the split glass one.


That's it. Hope it is helpful.
 

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Great step-by-step write-up. It will undoubtedly be very useful for others in the future.

Because no cutting of the f.g. is required it might be done by more folks, especially those that react with horror to anything that involves cutting or drill holes in the fiberglass. :)

Ron
 
Very nice writeup and outcome! :thumb:

.... The window is slightly smaller, but the frame will cover the cutout. ....
Do you happen to know the 'spec' cutout (rough opening) WxH dimensions for the acrylic window provided by ETI? And then, the actual shell cutout WxH dimensions on your 5.0 with frameless window?

Would you mind sharing the acrylic window cost, and separately the delivery cost to you?

Thanks In Advance.
 
I did notice the comment about leaving the rear window cracked open for ventilation while travelling. I'm not sure that I'd do that. Sometimes the back of our trailer ends up heavily coated in dirt after travelling over dusty roads.

Ron
 
I did notice the comment about leaving the rear window cracked open for ventilation while travelling. I'm not sure that I'd do that. Sometimes the back of our trailer ends up heavily coated in dirt after travelling over dusty roads.

Ron
Yeah, a really bad idea to leave anything open on the rear half of the trailer. One only needs to see some pictures of trailers and tugs after traveling down dusty roads. Alaska roads... I'm looking at you. :laugh:
 

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