Tables

Vicki, remember because the pedestle table slides side-to-side, folks can get into the dinette. Because a hinge table doesn't move, it must be shorter (same width). Unless you want to crawl under! Anyone remember doing that as a kid? ;D Unless someone has purchased a 21' with a hinge table, You (we) may need to get the measurement from Escape Trailer Industries.

Honestly. If you're building a table to suit yourself... measure your hips and shorten the table, angle the edge to suit your needs... not someone else. Who says it's got to be "stock." Certainly not me. :eek: Can't wait to see what you come up with!
 
I measured the hinged table on Jack and Nancy's 21' at the Lake Casitas rally. It is 35x36 (rounded off to the nearest inch).
 
Thanks keager!
Thanks from me too keager :-*

Vicki, you are nutz ;D

Based on the width Kathie provided (both mounts would be the same width because same dinette cabinetry), I'm figuring 35-1/2 x 36...
 
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Someone... Jim was it you? Bought a similar hydraulic pedestal and I think shipped it to Escape and they're doing the installation. Or did I dream that?
 
No, not me, I was going to wait and modify mine later to one of these. I wasn't sure of the height requirements.
 
I emailed Dicor. They will sell the pedestal to individuals - I think they wanted $375. And I think the dancing top was about the same.

I bought the Springfield 1660230 - WalMart, Camping World, etc. for around $300. I am taking it to Escape for mounting on my 19' U front dinette at pickup time - Jan 8.
 
Is the hinged table notched on the front side or is it cut straight across? Does Escape provide the filler piece to put the table down to bed mode? TIA
 
Question...when the table is put down for a bed, does it rest on molded channels on the bench...or are there wooden braces on the bench face?
 
Answered my own question...finally found a close enough pic of the 21.

Silly me, the dinette is wood, NOT fiberglass.
 
Answered my own question...finally found a close enough pic of the 21.

Silly me, the dinette is wood, NOT fiberglass.
I thought you knew something I didn't about the cabinet builds. I wasn't even thinking... fiberglass. Of course I wouldn't. My Scamp has the wood interior too. In your travels through the forums did you find a 21' with the hinge table? I'm striking out.
 

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I think Paul has a hydraulic one. Would be interesting to know if he is getting another one or decided against it. His is going out the door soon hopefully. Or maybe he is keeping it and putting the 19' back to the original set-up.
 
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Me again, more tables!

Has anyone at anytime, changed from a plywood table to Coroplast or something similar? I know it would need to be doubled (glued) because the thickest I've found is 10mm, but it is a LOT lighter than a wood table and supposedly just as strong or stronger... I'm getting weaker by the minute and wrestling a table isn't doable. (no, it's not my health... it's age related :mad: )

http://stinger.coroplast.com/pdf/Stinger_Industrial.pdf
 
I wouldn't consider regular Coroplast, but that Stinger looks like it has potential. My guess is that it would need a thin plywood (or even plastic laminate such as Formica) top surface, plus edging, and even a bottom layer to spread the load out from the leg attachment points.

How thick is the stock Escape table, and is it simply a plywood panel with a laminate surface, and some sort of edge finish? It has been a while since I've seen one.
 
Jim, said the table is about 3/4" thick and yes, it's plywood. The Stinger Coroplast is available with a plastic skin. To get to the 3/4 inch thickness, I was noodling two pieces of 10mm and "veneer" of thickness to equal 3/4" on the top and bottom. Haven't even thought of the attachment points for the hinge or pedestals. More wood!

In the end, I'll probably just say... screw the table, I'll use the stooge tables and a TV tray ;D

But, the Coroplast is interesting for those looking to save a ton of weight!
 
To get to the 3/4 inch thickness, I was noodling two pieces of 10mm and "veneer" of thickness to equal 3/4" on the top and bottom. Haven't even thought of the attachment points for the hinge or pedestals. More wood!
I'm thinking one layer of 10 mm Stinger, 1/4" (or maybe only 1/8") plywood on top plus laminate, 1/4" of plywood on the bottom with a thicker plywood pad around the hardware. Solid wood edging routed to bridge the top and bottom plywood. Similar thickness to the original, with hopefully adequate strength since the middle of a bending structure like this is under lower stress.

This would definitely need to be tested, and I think the Stinger material will be hard to find in small retail quantities. There are many other core materials (honeycombs or foams, in aluminum or plastics) that could be used since we're talking about top and bottom skins anyway, but this isn't exactly Home Depot territory, and the Stinger is likely to be cheaper than more exotic core stock.
 

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