Tank Monitors

penwia

Snow Scape
Joined
Oct 28, 2024
Posts
164
Location
Skokie Ill U.S
Hi all,

I know this topic has been discussed at length, and I know the monitors are notoriously faulty, but I am just trying to understand the issue. I have a new 17B, and I have the traditional monitor. My first trip out monitors worked fine. This last weekend I was out and my monitors read empty the whole time, both of them, Grey and Black. I know my grey was full, I could see the water in the shower drain, and I used up all my freshwater in my tank. I understand why they read full when empty ( sensors are dirty) but why would they read empty even though they were full. Black tank may have been about 3/4 full from what I could tell from looking down the toilet. TIA
 
Gray and black, especially black will often be wrong. Cleaning helps, but doesn’t last long. Fresh should at least be an approximation. Sounds like you may have an electrical issue in the system.
 
Gray and black, especially black will often be wrong. Cleaning helps, but doesn’t last long. Fresh should at least be an approximation. Sounds like you may have an electrical issue in the system.
Damn!! That is what I was thinking, but was hopping not!!! It's a brand new trailer, ugh!!! is there a way to test with a multi meter?
 
I don’t have that system, and I have spray foam, but someone probably has an idea about resistance numbers on the probes, and voltage at the board inputs.
 
I know there are threads here that have tracked monitor issues down with expected resistance and voltage specs. You might be able to dig something up. Since it’s new, you could also try the manufacturer, or ETI, the installer.
 
Thank you. I have tried to look it up here, but I get the "always full' stuff, or they are about SEA LEVEL monitors. I already have two other issues I am dealing with ETI, but I guess I will need to put in another ticket. Ugh!!! I am thankful that these are minor issues and I can still camp in it.
 
I would expect the fresh monitor to work, the gray sort of, and the black basically never. It’s why I didn’t get the standard monitors. Over many years, I just checked gray and black like you have, but did want the 1/4 tank increments on fresh to work.
 
I don’t have that system, and I have spray foam, but someone probably has an idea about resistance numbers on the probes, and voltage at the board inputs.


I spent some time diagnosing our faulty probe indicators. Currently, they work fine due mostly to a change in soap/detergent usage. In that process, I researched the circuit for the KIB panel and probes. See attached file of mine and another forum link:

In general, the KIB indicator is a simple voltage divider circuit. Each tank has two wires at the KIB monitor that should read open circuit at empty, 188 k-ohm at 1/3, 68k-ohm at 2/3, and 0 ohm at full. When compared to the internal 188 k-ohm within the KIB panel, the measured voltage between the tank and panel is 12VDC, 6VDC, 3VDC, or 0VDC for empty, 1/3, 2/3, and full.

I would check the resistance of the wires for a specific tank at different fill levels at the KIB panel to see if the issue is with the KIB panel, or the wiring, probes, or KIB101 resistance pack (located near each of the tanks). At that point you can changeout the KIB panel (assuming all tank circuits check out fine) or diagnose each tank circuit.

--Steve
 

Attachments

  • KIB tank level monitor wiring.pdf
    98.5 KB · Views: 64
I spent some time diagnosing our faulty probe indicators. Currently, they work fine due mostly to a change in soap/detergent usage. In that process, I researched the circuit for the KIB panel and probes. See attached file of mine and another forum link:

In general, the KIB indicator is a simple voltage divider circuit. Each tank has two wires at the KIB monitor that should read open circuit at empty, 188 k-ohm at 1/3, 68k-ohm at 2/3, and 0 ohm at full. When compared to the internal 188 k-ohm within the KIB panel, the measured voltage between the tank and panel is 12VDC, 6VDC, 3VDC, or 0VDC for empty, 1/3, 2/3, and full.

I would check the resistance of the wires for a specific tank at different fill levels at the KIB panel to see if the issue is with the KIB panel, or the wiring, probes, or KIB101 resistance pack (located near each of the tanks). At that point you can changeout the KIB panel (assuming all tank circuits check out fine) or diagnose each tank circuit.

--Steve
This is great information thanks.
 

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