Telluride TV with E-19 without a WDH?

Durango1

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Posts
562
Hello all!
Our 2022 E-19 came with a Fastway E2 WDH. Don't hate me🙏🏼 but the entire set-up along with the hitching/unhitching process seems really complicated.

Our travel style is to travel a bit each day, camp early and then unhitch to explore. With the extra complexity of a WDH I'm afraid we'll wind up dragging the E-19 with us everywhere.😥

Our Telluride X-Pro has the factory tow package (5000# tow rating, 5500# with WDH) and rear self-leveling shocks. Our E-19 with the factory options is 3700# and we'll travel dry with a max load of 4200#. Has anyone had success with a combo like this without a WDH? TIA

PS: We're totally happy muddling along at 60 MPH.😎
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Do as you please. I can't recommend your path of thought and rationalization, but if you keep things slow and easy, you'll probably be OK.
My mantra: Having FUN is a LOT of WORK. That includes messing about with WDH's. More Work.
The WDH does aid in safety, vehicle & trailer control and comfort while trailering.
There's not much complexity with a WDH after using one, but it is another thing to do, (work) with careful attention to details and process, (work) and may require some physical effort to accomplish (work).
 
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There is no "one size fits all answer" Depends on how the tow vehicle reacts when hitched & loaded for camp. Any rear sag, means the front end is rising. If severe enough, steering & handing can become unsafe. Do this simple measurement at the front fender well, hitched & unhitched. If the front is rising up more than 3/4 to 1", the tow vehicle needs help. The goal is level front to back, close to factory ride height. Gotta say, dual sway control is pretty awesome reason to use it. We don't tow long hauls without it !
 
Good luck with that short wheelbase tow vehicle without a WDH that also has anti-sway because it seems too complicated. Better be sure your tongue weight is at least 450 lbs.
 
is that a chain/stirrup style WDH ? you have a pipe handle to flip the stirrups up/down, so to unhitch, flip them down and let the chains fall to the ground, then unhitch teh ball, pull forward a foot or so, and pull the hitch out of the vehicle . to hitch, drop the hitch on the ball, connect the chains to the stirrups and use the pipe tool to flip the stirrups back up, raise the jack, done.

I would not tow with a crossover SUV without a WDH. I use an Andersen with my Expedition 4x4 that has 9300 lb tow capacity, and a E21c thats GWV (eg, max trailer weight) is 4500 lbs as it smooths out the ride and eliminates even the hint of sway I might get at higher speeds. I didn't use any WDH with my F250 longbed diesel 4x4 pickup truck towing the same trailer as that truck was rock steady, like a freight train.
 
I am glad this forum is providing much better answers than the Facebook page would provide.. " I used to tow a 25 foot trailer with a Pinto and no WDH, and I had no issues.." Less bounce , no sway, and keeping the correct amount of weight on the front (steering/braking) makes your VACATION time less tense. Oh , and even tire wear as well.
 
Thanks to everyone for talking me off the ledge with your level-headed replies. I sucked it up and spent several days fine-tuning the WDH. Think I'm almost there!
 
I don't use a sway control hitch with my 19', towed with a 2008 Lexus GX470. 10,000 miles and no wiggle-waggles. Proper percentage of trailer weight on the hitch is really important. I'm not tempted to carry my ebike on the rear trailer receiver for that very reason.

With that said, I don't think a Fastway, Equalizer, Sway Pro, or such hitches would be too bothersome if a trailer had an electric jack; with a manual jack it's a real pain when hooking up to crank onto the ball, then crank up high to install the bars, then crank back down again.
 
Hey Mike- it is a bigger pain to recover physically & financially after a rollover. I believe you have a Gen1 19 which is lighter than a Gen2, however my buddy also had a Gen1 19 he rolled after driftng off the right side of Hwy 395 on a perfect straight highway a caught an edge coming back on the road with a Gen 1 Toyota Tundra and it totalled both the truck & trailer. Your Lexus is a shorter wheelbase. If it were me I woul spend a few $$ and get an E2 or Andersen and an electric jack.
 
Some people feel a manual jack is a bother, but I don’t mind it with our WDH. I do find my replacement jack harder to turn given its shorter crank. At some point I might do the 1/2” bolt electric drill mod, but just haven’t found it a priority. If you have a manual jack, I wouldn’t let it deter you from a WDH.
 
as I get older (70 last year), the manual jack is becoming more of a pain, and I think if/when I need to replace it again, I'll consider an electric. My Expedition's cargo hatch is much more out of the way than the tailgates of my previous pickup trucks....
 
Life doesn't come with any guarantees, or with an unlimited spending account either. We all make our own risk assessments.
 
To save mileage on my 2014 Tundra towing our Casita Liberty we purchased a 2025 Telluride EX-X Pro (5500lb tow capacity) with the receiver hitch and 7-way plug, I have a Redarc Liberty controller and located the pigtail under the dash for the install.
I'll be using the Andersen hitch assy, I'm curious to see what effects the self leveling rear shocks will have on the weight distribution hitch.
I'll wait until I have 1200 miles on the Telluride before towing, mountain travel such as the Durango Gathering will still be done with the Tundra.
 
To save mileage on my 2014 Tundra towing our Casita Liberty we purchased a 2025 Telluride EX-X Pro (5500lb tow capacity) with the receiver hitch and 7-way plug, I have a Redarc Liberty controller and located the pigtail under the dash for the install.
I'll be using the Andersen hitch assy, I'm curious to see what effects the self leveling rear shocks will have on the weight distribution hitch.
I'll wait until I have 1200 miles on the Telluride before towing, mountain travel such as the Durango Gathering will still be done with the Tundra.
I have basically the same Telly with 1400 miles on it. Our new-to-us 2022 E-19 loaded is 4540# scale weighed. Yesterday I finally got the WDH dialed in and our Telly has "enough" power for me, brakes well and drives smooth with the WDH. All good!

However, being a semi-prudent (Sioux says paranoid) individual and since I knew we're pushing the Telly's towing limits I installed a Scan Gauge II to monitor the transmission fluid temps. So yesterday afternoon I wanted to test the tranny temps before our southern AZ trip next Friday.

By serendipity we live in Durango, CO (I didn't even KNOW there is a gathering planned here!):cool: so I drove a sustained but not incredibly steep climb from Hermosa, CO (6640') north for 8 miles to an elevation of 7400'. So we're talking a 760' elevation gain in 8 miles. Initial results not encouraging!

On the 7 miles flat drive up to Hermosa the tranny temps rose and stayed at 200 degrees. (I was in tow mode.) But over the 8 miles and even slowing to 30 MPH the temperature rose to 224. (I'm no mechanic but Google tells me top tranny temp should be 220 and "bad things" start happening over this temp!)

I then timidly pushed the limit and drove slowly (more 30 MPH creeping) another 10 miles up to Purgatory ski area (1300' elevation gain) and the temps rose to 226 degrees. (Radiator temp on the Scan Gauge read 216.)

So folks, is there something I could have done better here? I let tow mode choose the gear and drove slowly. (I wasn't real popular with other drivers!) Any work arounds? The X-Pro has an internal transmission cooler but an obvious fix would be an external auxiliary cooler but I don't want to affect the factory warranty. Need to check on that.

Sorry for the long post and meanwhile, I guess next week we'll be dragging our E-19 down south to Tucson with our Ram 3500!:cry:
 
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I use a scan gauge on my Tundra, going over Raton Pass a few trips ago my tranny temp climbed to 250, so on the last trip I slowed down to about 55 and it never went over 230, coming down it immediately goes back to 200.
I joined a couple of Telluride forums and there's a lot of towing discussion including one person who posted the Scan Gauge set up codes for the transmission.

From what I have observed, most service departments at dealers don't have a clue about towing, brake controller installs, etc. The Telluride forums have plenty of real world information.

I'll report back in after towing our Casita
David
 

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I use a scan gauge on my Tundra, going over Raton Pass a few trips ago my tranny temp climbed to 250, so on the last trip I slowed down to about 55 and it never went over 230, coming down it immediately goes back to 200.
I joined a couple of Telluride forums and there's a lot of towing discussion including one person who posted the Scan Gauge set up codes for the transmission.

From what I have observed, most service departments at dealers don't have a clue about towing, brake controller installs, etc. The Telluride forums have plenty of real world information.

I'll report back in after towing our Casita
David
What's the wet loaded weight of your Casita, Dave? Also. I joined the Kia Telluride Forum forum. Can you share any other links you would recommend? TIA
 
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We stopped at the CAT Scales on a trip recently and it was 3100-3200, I have a Sherline tongue weight scale and it's about 425lbs, I extended the tongue with a subframe, removed one propane cylinder and added a tongue box so I'm happy with the tongue weight.

We weighed the tongues on several trailers at the 2024 Durango Fiberglass Gathering and one Escape was right at 700lbs, I believe it was a 21' with the front storage box.

I also joined the Palisade Forum since the Telluride and Palisade share the same engine and are very similar.

 

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as I get older (70 last year), the manual jack is becoming more of a pain, and I think if/when I need to replace it again, I'll consider an electric. My Expedition's cargo hatch is much more out of the way than the tailgates of my previous pickup trucks....
One summer, dripping with sweat from cranking the jack post, after 10 or so years of doing so, and after seeing and learning about modifying and using a large bolt and cordless drill, I did that mod. I also had to go out & buy an 18V Milwaukee lithium ion cordless. My other drills didn't have the torque to do the deed. That lasted for a couple of years, but the drill can wrench a wrist pretty easily at either end of the jack post travel.
Last Winter I scored from Amazon an electric jack, a refurbished/return. It looked brand new and was complete and in the original box. A frugal purchase at 1/2 price retail. Installation was a snap, and like a number of things in my life, my thought was "why didn't I do this sooner."

An Escape buddy has said he'll get out of trailering when he can't manually raise the jack post. Fine. I say, "get the gear, or get out" of an activity if it becomes troublesome. Gear is good, as it can make life, health and work a little bit easier.
Having fun is a lot of work.
 

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