The Mystery of the Rotting Bacon: 12V weirdness

[medora]

Hi all, we have a 2012 17B that we modified: we removed the fridge and using a Lagun mount, we created a larger bed area that we love. We dumped that internal Dometic condenser fridge (which we never liked anyway) and invested in two Dometic CFX coolers: one sits right outside the camper, and the other is in our car. In theory this works really well, but we are finding the coolers are incredibly erratic on our 12V DC outlets, including one that’s a Dometic-made 12v outlet with 10ga wiring that’s hardwired into our battery. The coolers fluctuate wildly in temp and BACON ROTTED on the trip we just got back from, which is as you know a national emergency.

I’ve been trying to figure this out and for kicks, I tried plugging both coolers into AC outlets on a small EcoFlow power bank that had some battery charge - I also plugged the EcoFlow into the same Dometic 12V outlet so that it would draw from the camper batteries and essentially just serve as an inverter. And the coolers work PERFECTLY using this setup. Even when the EcoFlow battery discharged and it was just passing electricity through to the coolers, they worked great.

So my question is — WHAT THE HECK?
Why would these coolers be flaky on 12v? Is there anything I can do or check with my multimeter? The fact that the outlet in question is hardwired into the battery leaves me baffled, and it’s not like the wire gauge isn’t adequate.

I would prefer not to have to plug into the EcoFlow every time, and it really seems like I shouldn’t need to.

Got any ideas, friends?

 

[Ron in BC]

To clarify; both coolers are erratic?

Are the plugs your typical cigarette outlet type or SAE type flat plugs?

When inserting the cooler plugs into the two different sources do the plugs feel like they fit equally well? eg. not loose in one and tight in the other.

And lastly, do you have a display of your battery voltage?

Good luck

Ron

 

[medora]

Both coolers are wacky. The second runs off an internal factory installed 12v but neither works well on either 12v. Voltage is consistently between 12.9 and 13.1. They’re both cigarette style plugs and yup they’re in there firmly. The Dometic outlet has one regular outlet and one SAE but I don’t have a SAE cord for either cooler so I’ve only tried on the traditional outlet.

 

[Ron in BC]

It wouldn't be a national emergency for me if my bacon went bad but if my ice cream melted

I'm not understanding the part where the Ecoflow battery discharged and the coolers still worked fine.

Why does the ecoflow battery discharge if it's plugged into the trailer?

Definitely a mystery to solve, good luck.

Ron

 

[medora]

The EcoFlow can only pull 100w max from the 12v when plugged in - and the coolers will overrun that when they’re starting up (the freezer was at 50 degrees at one point - imagine that melted ice cream!!). So when I experimented the EcoFlow only had abt 15% charge initially, and eventually it ate thru that so that it was truly just passing thru current as an inverter. Once it was at zero charge, what came in went right out to the coolers. By that time all was stable, the 100 w that was passing thru was adequate (I think the ecoflow charged a little maybe?) —and the coolers remained at set temps.


I’m really hoping someone has some ideas because short using an inverter all the time I have no idea what to do. And not having bacon is not an option. .

 

[Ron in BC]

I'm out of ideas too. I hope a smart person out there will figure it out.

I'm having trouble understanding the inverter passing the 12V straight through. Normally I think of an inverter as having 12V in and 110V out. But you have 12V into the Ecoflow and 12V out?

Ron

 

[HABBERDABBER]

No idea to your quandry....but

There exists shelf stable packaged bacon, no refrigeration needed....Oscar Meyer & many others have it. It's what I use on trips....pre-cooked, no grease splatter, real bacon, maybe not the best porcine cuisine, but it's a lot better than funky bacon and easier to store and use.

And taking any battery that low is not good for it. Lithium, lead acid, etc., they perform and last longest in a 50% to to 80% Depth of Discharge (DoD) range.

 

[medora]

I’m kind of joking about the bacon. Basically everything spoiled. It’s not workable.

The camper lithium batteries are never allowed to discharge fully. The EcoFlow rarely is fully discharged either. I only allowed it this time as an experiment.

Ron, the coolers was plugged into the EcoFlow AC outlets. The EcoFlow itself was plugged into the 12v cigarette outlet that’s hardwired into the battery. So 12v into EcoFlow -> AC out into coolers.

 

[GinoandLinda]

And taking any battery that low is not good for it. Lithium, lead acid, etc., they perform and last longest in a 50% to to 80% Depth of Discharge (DoD) range.

50% level of discharge for lead acid is accepted best practice, but you would be leaving a lot of power on the table if you set that level for lithium. My understanding is LiFPo batteries can safely go down to 20% level of charge or 80% level of discharge.

 

[HABBERDABBER]

My spin

You are correct in speaking to lithium batteries.
For OPTIMUM service lifespan, I believe my generalities are in the ballpark. Each battery chemistry is unique, and lithium certainly can go lower, but they don't "like it". Lead acid batteries suffer more degradation with below 50% depth of discharge than lithium or other chemistries. They all experience some level of degradation with deep discharge.
I don't charge my lithium battery EV car to 100%, or take it down to 0%. It will survive if I did, but it's not in it's or mine best interest. Lead acid batteries perform better at a full charge level. Lithium batteries are a bit better at 80%

Different strokes for different battery chemistries.

All general statements, as it's complicated comparisons.

 

[hugh]

LiFePO4 battery cycle ratings are typically for 100%-0%-100% cycles. Mine are rated for 4000 cycles under those conditions.

 

[Chamberman]

I have a portable compressor cooler as well, its not a Dometic but the operation is quite similar I'm sure. I've noticed that if I run it in "Eco" mode it tends to allow very large temp swings, like 10 - 15deg. swings. If I run it in "Max" cooling mode it holds temp much better.

Also, I installed a high quality 12V socket in the bed of my truck to use to power it using the 12V lighter socket style pigtail that was included with the compressor cooler. I've found that even with this high quality 12V socket I still get intermittent connections just wiggling the connector and lose voltage which results in the compressor shutting down. I've already contemplated getting rid of the cigarette lighter style socket connection and putting a high quality 12V power connector on the pigtail. I'm just not sure which one yet...

 

[Ron in BC]

Ron, the coolers was plugged into the EcoFlow AC outlets. The EcoFlow itself was plugged into the 12v cigarette outlet that’s hardwired into the battery. So 12v into EcoFlow -> AC out into coolers.

What is the plug situation when both coolers are plugged into 12V?

Do you have 2 cigarette lighter type outlets or do you use a splitter type, one into two?

Ron

 

[medora]

To answer some questions — we have a OEM Dometic 12v outlet that is hardwired into our battery. One cooler is plugged into this. The other is plugged into an Escape factory installed outlet (which I realize is probably using smaller wire). Both are cigarette style outlets. The behavior is the same regardless of which cooler is plugged into the Dometic outlet. The only way these work consistently is via the Ecoflow - plugging both into that unit’s AC plugs, and the Ecoflow into the very same Dometic outlet. That’s what confuses me - and it makes me think that a LOT of people must have this problem when plugging directly into 12v with these coolers, even if they’re using a high quality direct wired connector. Has anyone tried these on AC via a Victron inverter setup? I’d probably just run off the Ecoflow if there’s no other option - I still have no idea how to troubleshoot

 

[medora]

Another related question - we’d actually thought about installing an internal drawer style small fridge in the camper BUT if it’s going to act like these coolers running on 12v (which it would be) then forget it. What are people’s experience with 12v fridges? Any problems?

 

[Ron in BC]

— we have a OEM Dometic 12v outlet that is hardwired into our battery. One cooler is plugged into this. The other is plugged into an Escape factory installed outlet (which I realize is probably using smaller wire). Both are cigarette style outlets.

Well, rats, sort of. I was hoping you were using a 1 into 2 adapter because that could have been a source of the problem.

Both coolers work from an AC source. Both coolers don't work from either of your two trailer 12V outlets. Can you try plugging one into some other 12V source that uses a different battery?

If you only had one cooler and it wasn't running on 12V it could well be a problem but the chances of two coolers both having the same 12V problem is unlikely.

Ron

 

[Ron in BC]

What are people’s experience with 12v fridges? Any problems?

I built a camper for a friend and bought a Bodega chest style 12V unit with two compartments. He's used one as a deep freeze and the other as a fridge.

It's charged while driving by the truck and while camping with a solar cell and battery.

I didn't know what to expect from it but it's worked flawlessly and it's better on the battery life than I was expecting.

Ron

 

[CharlesinGA]

Its possible that there is a lot of voltage drop in the 12v circuits to the power sockets. The wiring may be undersized for the coolers

Charles

 

[Ron in BC]

That'd be nice if it was something simple like that but it's 10ga. wiring.

Ron

 

[medora]

Ron - agree. It’s the wiring Dometic recommends and it’s wired into the battery. Thanks for letting me know about success with the Bodega - curious if you know which model?