Tips for ProFlex removal?

[BCnomad]

Getting around to some maintenance and would appreciate any pro tips for removing the proflex caulk.

 

[Jim Bennett]

Getting around to some maintenance and would appreciate any pro tips for removing the proflex caulk.

I just scrape as much as possible off, then scrub with acetone.

 

[BCnomad]

Ok. Thanks.

My caulking is coming off one molecule at a time here.

 

[Ron in BC]

I just scrape as much as possible off, then scrub with acetone.

I do pretty much that except I take a razor sharp wood chisel, if I can find one in my poor abused collection and put the flat side down firmly on the f.g. The angle is very shallow. I move it slightly sideways and, in effect, slice the sealant off with very little remaining on the surface. This will not damage the f.g.

I then finish off with an acetone scrub, sometimes using one of those little scrubby pads for tough stuff.

Ron

 

[padlin]

You can put a new bead of Proflex over an old layer of the same.

 

[War Eagle]

Did anyone catch what Reace used to "glue" the new longer awning guide bars onto the fiberglass edge during his whirlwind trip around the lower 48?

 

[StanLewis]

Did anyone catch what Reace used to "glue" the new longer awning guide bars onto the fiberglass edge during his whirlwind trip around the lower 48?

Wasn't paying real close attention, but I'm pretty sure he just used Proflex.

 

[Red Dog]

Did anyone catch what Reace used to "glue" the new longer awning guide bars onto the fiberglass edge during his whirlwind trip around the lower 48?

He used Proflex when he changed my guide bars.


Fred M.

 

[TheWanderers]

sealant removal

We renovated an old Scamp and I found the best stuff to remove all the old "scum", that was supposed to be sealant, was carburetor cleaner.

I can't verify what this would do to new gel-coat because the finish on the Scamp was shot and we were prepping for painting so I wasn't real concerned with anything left behind except a perfectly clean surface. It dries really fast so I would shoot the carb cleaner onto a paper towel and wipe the glue "yuck" quickly with extreme effectiveness. On particularly tough spots that were thicker or harder to wipe off I'd spray directly onto the shell and it worked very well removing lots of extraneous smears and slimy yuck.

If I was going to try this on my new fiberglass trailer I'd pick a hidden spot and test it before I went wild. :whistling:

 

[thoer]

We renovated an old Scamp and I found the best stuff to remove all the old "scum", that was supposed to be sealant, was carburetor cleaner.
:

The brand of carb cleaner I have is acetone just like Jim mentioned above. It will strip all the wax off but according to my local body shop won’t hurt the gelcoat in small quantities.

 

[War Eagle]

The Gumout brand of carburetor cleaner is a combination of acetone and toluene. Similar to stuff used to strip varnish off furniture. Protect your skin and lungs from that stuff.

 

[TheWanderers]

The Gumout brand of carburetor cleaner is a combination of acetone and toluene. Similar to stuff used to strip varnish off furniture. Protect your skin and lungs from that stuff.

War Eagle:

Thanks for the warning. I ended up in a dusk mask as well as gloves because I was glassing and sanding and all that butyl resealing stuff. I tried all the cleaners I could find including fingernail polish remover, acetone and turpentine. However, nothing was as effective and the carb cleaner. Good to have the warning about skin contact thought,...thanx.

 

[Patandlinda]

The couple of times I had to remove Proflex ,I used acetone and a plastic scraper . Pat