Trailer 7 way plug problem

[casejh]

Exactly! Look for a protruding tab on the inside of the spring-loaded cover and make sure that it engages the plug. This will hold the plug firmly in place without any need for any rubber bands, tape, hair ties, etc.

Chuck

Yes the protruding tab engages and holds the plug in place, at least for the first few years. I think mine gradually got looser from wear over time. Now a single wrap of black electrical tape around the plug is required to make the plug stay firmly in place, with the protruding tab engaged in the spring loaded cover.

 

[DencoDick]

Following is an update on my Pollack plug experience.

I received the Pollack plug from Amazon.

I can see that the contacts of the Pollack extend farther out in the center and the other 6 are closer to the edge of the plug. What is not obvious is that the Pollack inserts about an additional 1/16” into the outlet on the truck due to that “bump” being a little farther back on the Pollack.

Before attaching the Pollack plug to the ETI connector cable I did a simple test and inserted it into my truck’s outlet. It fits more snugly into the outlet than the original ETI plug.

I was concerned about changing both the plug and connector cable assuming that my 2019 ETI 21 was like my 2013 ETI 19 where the junction box was inside the trailer. But after following the wire I found the junction box outside the trailer on the frame near the front. Relieved that if this doesn’t work I would be able to change the connector cable/plug without having to cut and replace the bottom insulation.

My next concern was about wiring the Pollack plug. So I opened the junction box and saw that at least the wiring color scheme matched the standard I found at etrailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/question-88575.html

To be more certain about the wiring scheme, I cut off the original ETI plug, dissected it, and sure enough it followed the same wiring scheme. Then there was no turning back at this point.

I disconnected the trailer batteries.

I wired the Pollack plug to the ETI connector cable. Reconnected the trailer batteries. Feeling confident at this point I plugged it into my truck’s outlet and ran tests to make sure the lights and brakes worked correctly. All work fine.

If anyone is wondering why I disconnected the trailer batteries, it’s because even with the battery switch turned off there is still power to the connector cable as well as to the power jack.

My only issue now is that there is no place to go due to the COVID-19 closures. So a good road test is yet to be done.

 

[fudge_brownie]

Nice report, we will wait for the road test. Stay safe and healthy.

 

[Perry Butler]

.............................
Before attaching the Pollack plug to the ETI connector cable I did a simple test and inserted it into my truck’s outlet. It fits more snugly into the outlet than the original ETI plug.
.............................

Months ago I would get the ding, ding, ding also. I put one wrap of electrical tape around the plug and stuck it back in, thinking I will figure out what to do next. But so far that has it 100% cured so I haven't tried anything else.

Over the years I've found some plugs fit "more snugly" than others. I've also wrapped a couple of layers of electrical tape and had that fix the problem. It's a lot cheaper and a quicker fix than installing a new plug/wiring.

Another thought: We have a 5.0 and installed the plug receiver over the wheel well in the bed of the pickup. We have tie-downs in each corner of the bed about 15" off the ground. I have a long bungee that goes from the front to the back tie-down to hold our 13# LP tank upright. We had the plug lose continuity a couple of times. The bungee went over the top of the plug, so I just lowered the bungee so it supported the plug and the plug has yet to lose continuity.

Since the plug drops down slightly when connected it could be the top connections losing continuity, so either wrapping tape or supporting the plug sometimes is all that's needed.

Food for thought!

Perry

 

[Tonny LR]

DeverRTC,
Did you seal the plug with Silicone.

Tonny LR

 

[DencoDick]

Finally tested

I can finally complete my experience with the Pollack connector that I installed on our ETI 2019 21 this past spring.

We have been on the road for about 2 weeks traveling from Denver, CO and now in Harrington, Maine. We did not get any “bing, bing, bing” and no messages about checking the trailer wiring.

The trailer wire was plugged into the truck’s socket in as simple a fashion as possible. No special clips. No velcro wraps. No wire ties. No sealants. Just simply plugged in after each stay along the way. Based on this trip so far I expect it to be that way from now on.

Just some added FYI’s. Before leaving Denver we stocked up on food and such, we isolated ourselves for several weeks and we had the Covid test with negative results. We continue to keep a significant distance from others, wear our masks and wear one-use gloves at service stations and other places where touch can’t be avoided.

Now we need to get through Isais tonight so we can do our pelagic bird trip later this week.

 

[sumac.rhus (2017 17B)]

When I bought my Casita, it came with a Camco Multi Clamp to keep the trailer plug from getting loose while traveling.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-39...iJ8tFpCyDt94RfBH5ZWWggyBRduBsQwXLwaAkai8P8HAQ

I now use it with the Escape. It works great to keep the 7 pin from getting loose and causing the lights to fail. Adjusted to just slip over the spring-loaded cover on the 7-pin receptacle, it is easy to remove / replace but keeps the cover secured on the 7-pin connector.

Could you or "SkiMan" please post a photo of how you wrap exactly what, at what points? I have thoughts, but not at all confident I understand....and struggling with maintaining my cord/receiver connection. Thanks - Susan

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

the lid on the 7-blade receptacle on the tug should have a pretty stiff spring holding it closed, and there's a notch on the inside of the lid thats supposed to lock against a notch on the top of the trailer's 7-blade plug. I always ensure thats engaged, and have never had a plug fall out.

 

[sumac.rhus (2017 17B)]

...I'm having flimsy flap and spring functions. Worked okay initially...but disappointing longevity...?

 

[skiman-ESC]

Could you or "SkiMan" please post a photo of how you wrap exactly what, at what points? I have thoughts, but not at all confident I understand....and struggling with maintaining my cord/receiver connection. Thanks - Susan

Get you one in the morning.

 

[sumac.rhus (2017 17B)]

Thank you so much!

 

[skiman-ESC]

Could you or "SkiMan" please post a photo of how you wrap exactly what, at what points? I have thoughts, but not at all confident I understand....and struggling with maintaining my cord/receiver connection. Thanks - Susan

Attached picture of clamp on an extra plug inserted into my Silverado. Second picture is real trailer plug. Note one wrap of electrical tape on Escape plug. Between the clamp and a wrap of tape everything stays connected well on the Silverado. The silver plug is one i bought to replace the Escape plug. It fits into the Silverado very well, much better than the one on the Escape. The clamp and wrap of tape works well, and I did not want to introduce a bunch of new connections on screw terminals of the new plug.

 

[sumac.rhus (2017 17B)]

Again: Thank you so much!

 

[Jim & Debbie]

I wanted to share our experience with the 7-pin plug on the new to us 2009 Escape 5.0 in hopes that it might help someone else. I found this thread to be useful in troubleshooting our issues when we first got our trailer.

The existing 7-pin plug on our 2009 single axle 5.0 was a Bargman style. When we hooked up the trailer to take it for a spin to practice parking, the spring loaded cover on our 2016 F150 held the plug in sufficiently that the “Trailer Connected” message came on the dash and the lights all worked. We drove down to a local empty parking lot and never noticed an issue the rest of the day. The next day as we were going out for round 2, we noticed the “Trailer Disconnected” message come on the truck dash. We went back home to diagnose and troubleshoot the issue.

What I discovered is that the 2016 F150 7-pin connector is a “Pollak style” rather than a “Bargman style”. The Bargman plug would not engage the truck’s connector — it was just the spring tension from the cover that was holding the plug in contact with the truck’s conductors. I guess we hit a bump or something that caused the plug to lose connection and thus display the warning message. I don’t know whether anyone reporting using a strap or velcro to hold the plug in had a Bargman style or Pollak style truck connector. I do know the previous and original owners of our trailer had Nissan Frontiers.

I ordered a new Pollak 7-pin connector on Amazon. Unfortunately, it arrived broken, but I was able to trial fit it nonetheless and there was a definite engagement of the plug in the truck connector. I ordered a replacement Pollak 12-706 as well as a Curt 58141 7-pin “Pollak style” plug because we were going to be cutting it close to leaving on our first camping trip. Both plugs look identical, from markings on terminals for wire colors, to set screws to hold the main cable in the plug, to the “Made in Taiwan” markings. The Curt plug came in a plastic retail box that protected it better, so I kept it as a spare. The second Pollak plug I received was undamaged.

I compared the terminal markings to wire colors of the original plug and replacement plug and they matched. It was then just a matter of cutting off the old Bargman plug and installing the Pollak plug. Be careful not to overtighten the set screw that holds the outer plug casing to the inner terminal connection piece as that is where the first plug I received was broken.

In the photo that shows the two plugs side by side, the Pollak is on the left and Bargman on the right. You can that the blade connection types are different. You can sort of see in the photo of the truck connector close up that the blades are sort of wedge shape in order to squeeze out against the tabs on the trailer plug. It made sense once I had the Pollak plug why the Bargman didn’t seem to engage with the truck’s connector. On the F150, the slot for the alignment tab that is shown at the top of the plugs in my hand is actually at the bottom. The locking tab that is on the spring loaded cover engages to keep the plug from falling out, but the plug is physically engaged with the contacts on the truck connector now.

As for how to replace the plug, there is a small set screw in the alignment tab that holds the inner terminal connection piece to the outer plug. Loosen that set screw and remove the inner piece. Run the entire cable through the rubber sleeve at the back of the plug. Strip sufficient wire to make connections according to the wiring diagram after verifying that it applies to your situation. Slide the inner piece back into the outer piece and secure with set screw. Tighten the clamp screw that holds the main cable into the plug with the rubber sleeve. Check to verify everything works as expected. No more warning messages — yay!

Jim
2009 Escape 5.0 Single Axle
2016 Ford F150 Supercab 6.5' bed

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

interesting. I didn't realize thats what those were called. FWIW, my trailer came with the pollak style plug, with the single contacts, and they weren't making reliable connections with my 2019 Ford Expedition, so I changed the trailer cord+plug assembly to the bargman style double contacts, which works much better with my ford.

 

[Jim & Debbie]

interesting. I didn't realize thats what those were called. FWIW, my trailer came with the pollak style plug, with the single contacts, and they weren't making reliable connections with my 2019 Ford Expedition, so I changed the trailer cord+plug assembly to the bargman style double contacts, which works much better with my ford.

John,
That is indeed curious to me. I would have thought that "they" would make all 7-pin plugs/connectors interchangeable. On my F-150, I couldn't get the Bargman to engage no matter how hard I tried. It seemed (looking at it after having the Pollak one to compare to) that the blades on the truck connector were hitting the inner blades of the Bargman plug rather than sliding down between them. I can't tell in the photo whether the blades on my Bargman plug were damaged/deformed and that is why they didn't work.

Anyway, switching the plug was an immediate and noticeable improvement for me. But it is good to hear another experience that suggests the plugs should be interchangeable. Glad you got yours working reliably.

Thanks for the feedback,
Jim

 

[Centex]

Hmmm, my 2021 5.0 has the molded-on Bargman-style umbilical plug which has worked just fine with the OE 7-pin sockets on my 2022 F150 (a 7+4-pin on the bumper and a 7+12-pin I added in the bed sidewall). The 12-pin part of the one in the bed is a proprietary Ford connector for the trailer cam / TPMS system.

I've no idea whether those Ford-labeled OE 7-pin sockets are Bargman or Pollak-type (?) but they look like the one pictured in the first post and they've been secure and consistent performers with the trailer's umbilical plug.

In any case, glad that the OP got a setup that works for them!

I guess "YMMV" applies

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

I should note, my original umbilical fit OK on the factory socket on my 2002 F250. It wasn't super secure, but it always seemed to stay put and the lights and brakes always worked. I'll have to take a picture of the socket on the '19 Expedtion.