truck charging trailer

[hugh]

FWIW, I snagged that table I posted above from Blue Sea

Blue sea also has an ABYC table which is a helpful as it shows the derating based on the insulation temperature rating and environmental conditions.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/21731.pdf

With that in mind, even if you could technically use a single strand of 2/0 wire with 105C insulation, you'll find things get a lot less toasty with 4/0.

Even my 4/0 wire gets quite hot when running a full load on my 3000w inverter.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

I find our 3000w inverter to be useful. I can run the AC and cook a pizza in the convection oven at the same time.

and how long do your batteries last when you're doing that?

 

[hugh]

and how long do your batteries last when you're doing that?

Well, that all depends how hungry I am. I guess i could probably cook 30-40 pizzas on a charge if i had to.

 

[Teartags]

It can be either a secondary charger or the main charger/power supply for the RV. I used the IP22 12/30 to replace my WFCO in my lithium conversion. Now if you bought one of the lower amperage versions of IP22 you may have a problem, but the 30A version will suffice as either.

One of the things I really like about the IP22 is that when we're on shore power and I finish charging the batteries I can switch the IP22 into "Power Supply" mode in the Victron app and then cut the batteries off with the disconnect. In power supply mode you can set the fixed output voltage to whatever you want it to be, 12.80V and up, adjustable in .01V increments. I keep it at 12.80V when on shore power to protect electronics and LED lights.

This is an old post so please forgive me.
I am thinking that I don't really need my originally planned inverter at this point. So I'm considering saving a whole lot of coin and getting an IP22 30A and bypassing the WFCO converter to charge my 2 @ 100a Li batteries.

So how do you set this up "properly" so you can cut out the battery? Do you run the DC from the IP22 to a Bus? Then the battery and DC "panel" are also connected to that bus thereby allowing you to flip the breaker between battery and bus? If so, do you worry about voltage drops going through the bus?

Also, in a post above, there's a mention of wiring the Victron Smart Shunt "properly" to reflect for the IP22 charging. Do you do this differently than a standard shunt wire from the negative post of the battery?

Finally, when I install solar with an MPPT would that also just go through the same Bus?

Sorry, for all the questions. I'm a carpenter trying to wrap my head around electrical!

 

[Centex]

@Teartags - FYI / FWIW / for your consideration, here's one (among doubtless many) schematic approach that would probably work for your goals. This is installed and working great in my trailer, giving me lots of flexibility to choose charging sources (one, some, all, or none) and selective load management as well as total battery isolation / disconnect. This ensures proper battery monitoring with the Victron BMV-712 for all situations. My system accommodates a maximum continuous load of 250 amps, ultimately limited / protected to that level by the indicated Class-T fuse (you can size fuses and wire gauges to suit your needs).

For the two busses I used these from Amazon which are rated 300A (more than enough for my purposes and I suspect yours), easy to work with, robust, and readily accommodate a wide range of wires / cables. For me the 6" long x 1" wide busses are reasonably compact while providing good room for making connections. Voltage drop through the busses is a non-issue (immeasurably low).

As always there are many different ways to go about all of this, just posting FYI, Have Fun!

 

[Chamberman]

This is an old post so please forgive me.
I am thinking that I don't really need my originally planned inverter at this point. So I'm considering saving a whole lot of coin and getting an IP22 30A and bypassing the WFCO converter to charge my 2 @ 100a Li batteries.

So how do you set this up "properly" so you can cut out the battery? Do you run the DC from the IP22 to a Bus? Then the battery and DC "panel" are also connected to that bus thereby allowing you to flip the breaker between battery and bus? If so, do you worry about voltage drops going through the bus?

Centex gave you a good schematic for laying your system out, especially if you want to go even further with it.

If you just want to use the IP22 to replace your existing converter this can be as simple as removing the WFCO converter which includes removing the +/- DC wires coming from the existing WFCO converter at the load center fuse panel. Then you'll route the same +/- DC wires from your new IP22 to the same locations that you just removed the old wires. I installed the IP22 under our E19 PS dinette. To power it I added a new 15A AC breaker to the WFCO panel and ran romex to a new outlet that I installed under the PS dinette right next to the IP22.

The stock electrical setup allows you to switch off the battery with the battery disconnect switch and still maintain 12VDC to all of your 12V appliances from the converter or IP22 when you're on shore power. So no mods are needed to do that if you wire the IP22 in to directly replace the stock converter. If you plan to mount the IP22 at a distance from the WFCO load center like I did then a new 120VAC outlet may be needed.

 

[Teartags]

Much appreciated. I can start with the basic setup and move to the Bus Bar system as needed.