TV purchased, next step Escape 19!

Aluminum rims

The wheels look nice but are they worth $85 for 4. I might think about them if they reduce the weight vs the standard. Does anyone know?:
 
The wheels look nice but are they worth $85 for 4. I might think about them if they reduce the weight vs the standard. Does anyone know?:

$85x5=$425 - I did not order them, but did get a few (well, a lot of) other things.
 
I went with 4 with the thought that one would be covered in the back of the trailer. $85 to spend on something else!
 
Actually, 4x$85= $340, yes they look nicer and are easier to keep clean vs a white wheel. The spare is a regular white wheel.
 
Do the aluminum wheels use the same lug nuts as the steel spare?
Or does the spare have 5 of its own nuts? Seems to me the spare on my 17 didn't mount on the back with 5 nuts, but it had all steel wheels.
 
Traditionally aluminum wheels are lighter than steel wheels, but the weight difference is insignificant. The lug nuts are also chrome, not white.
 
The aluminum wheels look nice, but I doubt there are significant differences from the steel relative to performance. I got five of them as I didnt want to have to change the tire twice if I did get a flat. Also they can be rotated if desired and they are quite similar to the wheels on my FJ.
 
The cost of our options is mounting but, as you can see, the similarity between Escape's aluminum wheels and the ones on our TV leaves us little choice. (At least that will be my pitch to my partner in this venture).

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/at...dition-4runner-wheels-tires-te-wheel-tire.jpg

http://escapetrailer.com/DesktopMod...mage.ashx?mid=3465&eid=4&Type=View&PortalId=3
51732d1326294524-wtb-4-2011-12-17-wheels-169oc-fj-cruiser-17-inch-alloy-wheels-940x529.jpg


Those are the same wheels as on my 2011FJ. The Escape aluminum wheels do look good with them.
 
I'm completely ignorant here, but the tires of my last Subaru kept losing air and I was told to change the rims to steel from aluminum. I haven't a clue why (in my next life I will be mechanical) but I switched and the tires stopped losing air.
 
The aluminum wheels look nice, but I doubt there are significant differences from the steel relative to performance.
I agree that there will likely be little weight difference. Alloy wheels will tend to be straighter, and in my experience are tougher, handing curb hits with cosmetic but not functional damage. My current small trailer has steel wheels, but if buying new I wouldn't get more steels. All of our other vehicles - including the motorhome and the larger trailer - run alloy wheels (all original equipment or extra sets - bought used - of original equipment wheels).

I got five of them as I didnt want to have to change the tire twice if I did get a flat. Also they can be rotated if desired ...
I agree - I would get the full set. Rotating (with the spare in the rotation) is useful, because if you don't you may end up either running an ancient spare, or throwing out a perfectly good spare tire based on age. My current trailer has a mismatched spare which I should replace, as I certainly wouldn't trust it.

I'm completely ignorant here, but the tires of my last Subaru kept losing air and I was told to change the rims to steel from aluminum. I haven't a clue why (in my next life I will be mechanical) but I switched and the tires stopped losing air.
I suspect that changing to any other wheel would have fixed the problem. Since the rim portion of a steel wheel is typically one piece, the only reason I can think of for a slow leak due to the wheel would be a deformed rim in the bead area preventing proper seating of the tire on the rim. Back to my point about alloys being straighter...
 
A poorly seated tire can cause a slow leak... beading. Personally, I like steel wheels. A lot of folks think they're buying alloys... and they rust. Crap... chrome wheels are worse. But, then again I'm visual. Love old steelies... beauty rims and SS moonies. YMMV
 
A poorly seated tire can cause a slow leak...
Good point... we really don't know what the problem was with those original steels - just remounting the same tires on the same wheels might have fixed them.

A lot of folks think they're buying alloys... and they rust. Crap...
I can't imagine surface rust on a wheel that looks like an alloy, but I suppose some people don't really have any idea what they're looking at. A recent trend is to steel wheels with chromed plastic covers so thoroughly integrated with the wheel design that they really do look like cast alloys until you get up close, but those wouldn't show rust on the front (because the plastic doesn't rust)... and I personally have yet to see one of these intended for trailer service.

chrome wheels are worse.
Chrome is just the plating, and the wheel underneath can be steel, aluminum alloy... or the integrated plastic cover. Chromed steel often have problems with peeling or pitting chrome.

But, then again I'm visual. Love old steelies... beauty rims and SS moonies. YMMV
They're all functional, so this largely an appearance choice, and for some vehicles (partially) exposed steel wheels are better suited in style.
 
I'm completely ignorant here, but the tires of my last Subaru kept losing air and I was told to change the rims to steel from aluminum..
I mis-read this the first time and had it backwards! Since the problem was with alloys, the likely culprit would be porosity: tiny holes in the metal of no structural importance which leak air. I've never experienced this, but then I generally use genuine original-equipment (Toyota, Honda, Ford... and Alcoa) alloys. They're typically not particularly light or stylish, but they are built to not have problems. I don't know which small "trailer wheel" brands would be good.
 
Had issues with the aluminum rims on my GMC, siiliar or the same as Airstreams Filiform problem with their skin. While I never had leaks, I could see it causing slow leaks if it was at the bead.

filiform3.jpg
 
On vehicles in the midwest corrosion of the aluminum wheels at the rim where the tire seats is a common problem. The corrosion is a result of the deicing compounds that are used excessively in an attempt to compensate for poor driving conditions. The liquid deicers seem to be the most corrosive.
 
Week 2 of our build - yes there really is a bathroom in this 2004 19'!
 

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