Unhitching trailer

[Fayba]

We're having trouble detaching the tongue from the tow vehicle ball. We've tried moving the tow vehicle forward or backward a smidgen and that occasionally helps but now my husband can't get the tongue off.

 

[SRS]

We're having trouble detaching the tongue from the tow vehicle ball. We've tried moving the tow vehicle forward or backward a smidgen and that occasionally helps but now my husband can't get the tongue off.

Does the latch handle lift up and slide back to release the under jaw that keeps the ball in the coupler? Have you looked under the couple to see if the under jaw is damaged? If the ball socket has been hit hard it could be deformed.

I would try using some spray lithium grease to lubricate the ball and socket from underneath and then maybe it will come free. Once you get it free, clean the inside of the socket and inspect the under jaw. Don't force the coupler in a way that will damage it like.

I grease my hitch ball with a light coating of lithium grease an clean the ball and the cup after each use with a rag. Sometimes the couple is a little stubborn when I lift the trailer but always comes free. I do have an electric tongue jack that helps a lot with hitching and unhitching. Hope you can get it free.

 

[brroberts]

This is in forum threads here many times, and you’re going to get a lot of suggestions, some of them contradictory. It can be hard to release. Some members have changed their couplers because of it. I have a new coupler for some year when I finally get to it. I have owned many differing trailers, and this is the most obstinate coupler I’ve ever used.

So here’s my take, which some will disagree with. When I’m set to uncouple, I give the trailer a very gentle tug forward and keep it there. Almost always that will allow the latch to be raised. If not, I reluctantly resort to brute force with a pry bay under the collar. It’s not best practice, but it’s got to come off. Fortunately, that’s a rarely employed tactic. Others will suggest allowing the truck to roll a bit or move rearward. That might work for them. For my coupler and ball combination, it’s always forward for both hitching and unhitching that works.

Once the latch is up, I raise the tongue. If it does not come off, which is often the case, I keep cranking the tongue higher until I’m lifting the truck suspension. Then, usually bumping the truck forward will drop it off the ball; however, sometimes at this point shifting to neutral will work. Sometimes I have to crank the truck suspension up pretty hard and now have a 5000lbs tongue jack.

Not that it matters really, but I have a manual tongue jack.

At this point, I’ve always had it release.

One tip that works for me, is when I use my curved levelers, is to pull on them instead of backing on them. That almost always gets the latch up. When I back on, invariably, I have to start by getting the ball forward in the coupler.

My ball is the 2” ball designed for the Equalizer hitch.

Keeping things lubed helps too.

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Like the post above, I've moved forward a tad to release the hitch, and used a claw hammer claw portion to lever and coax the coupler off the ball. Sometimes it's a hit or miss deal with easily releasing the coupler, with or without tools and coaxing.

 

[Selkirk]

The mistake commonly I made when learning to unhitch was lowering the tongue jack before opening the coupler jaw. I found that if there is any upward force on the ball from the trailer tongue, the jaw can get bound up and will not release.

I use the following unhitching procedure:

• Chock the trailer wheels front and rear.
• Lift the tongue with the coupler still locked....high enough to easily remove the equalizer hitch bars.
• Lower the tongue so all the weight is back on the ball.
• Unlock the coupler. If it won't release (which is rare), nudge the truck forward to stretch the joint. I've found that the coupler will always release if I do this.
• Once the coupler is released, I start to raise the tongue. Sometimes I'm lucky and the tongue will lift straight off the ball. However, more often than not, the ball will be caught on the forward lip of the tongue. If that is the case, I'll continue to lift the tongue until the weight is off the top of the ball and the rear of truck just starts to lift up (maybe 1/4 inch).
• I'll then nudge the truck backwards a fraction of an inch...and the ball will pop off.

Honestly, the process sounds more complicated written out than it actually is.......

 

[YakRV]

Hi, Fayba. Yes, this coupler can be a pain sometimes. I agree with others that some lithium grease does help.

It doesn’t happen every time I unhitch, but what I do whenever the coupler gets “finicky” is follow Escape’s advice: I put the truck in neutral for a moment and let it settle (then reapply the park brake, of course). Be aware that depending on any slope you might be parked on, the truck may need to move forward or backward to line up for easier decoupling. Putting the truck in neutral for a moment will allow it to move on its own in the direction needed. That has worked for me every time without needing brute force. (Also, always remember to chock the trailer wheels before you unhitch.)

In addition, I don’t know if you are experienced with hitches so I’ll point out something Escape mentions in their Orientation video that they’ve encountered when folks call them for help. If you have weight distribution / sway bars, you need to remove them before you unhitch. Sorry if you already know this (and hopefully I didn’t offend if you do).

Here’s the orientation video I found VERY helpful hitching and unhitching for the first time (the decoupling advice begins at the 7:54 minute mark):

 

[MarkinVan]

The same as above, the one thing that seems to have consistently made unhitching the tow ball easier for us is to position the trailer, chock the trailer tires and then put the tow vehicle in neutral and foot off the brake. The weight of the trailer should then go on to the trailer wheel chocks and the tow vehicle should let go of the weight of the trailer on the hitch. Also as mentioned, if on a slope moving back or forward may be needed but only after the weight of the trailer is on the chocks so you are not fighting that.