Using the Costco buyer's program

I'd had the RAV4 for six months before I discovered it had cruise control. Something I paid for in the package and never use.
 
First time I took my Ram to a car wash where you stay in the car, the wipers came on when hit with water and I thought, that is not good, what happens if you go to a car wash where they drag those towels on the car to clean it, found out there is a way to disable the automatic wash, just turn off the ignition!! Supposedly there is more electronic gadgetry in these cars than a
WW II airplane bomber.....
 
My husband purchased a Tacoma in 2013. He wanted to deal with the local dealer and knew exactly what he wanted and what price he was willing to pay. They laughed at him. He drove 30 miles to the next dealership and they were willing to work with him--probably they wanted to get their sales numbers up. Four months later the local dealer called and wanted to make a deal. Funny how this works.
 
Toyota dealers are not that open to negotiation, I hear.
They don't have to be.

I experienced that even on my used 2012 4Runner. The dealer had his price and was up front about not negotiating. However when I said I wanted the roof rack cross members included he added $200 to my trade in. When I said I also wanted the premium floor mats he added another $200 to my trade in. So he gave me an additional $400 for my trade in for items that probably cost him a total of $200 if that much.

He made money and I happily drove away in my new - used 4Runner. :)
 
Remarkably accurate advice by the experienced buyers on the forum.
Here are my observations from my truck buying efforts in December:
1) tried the Costco system, and with very few dealerships in this area that were on their list, I was limited to one at which I didn't feel that they were honoring the price or showing me the invoice as required, so bought elsewhere at significant savings off the Costco number
2)start at the invoice price, that you can learn from various websites before getting to the dealership, then go down from invoice. Your goal is to get to a price that gets into the "holdback", a term that means the amount the dealer gets back from the manufacturer at the end of each quarter. Here's an example: MSRP is $35,000, invoice is $31,000, incentives/rebates are $2000--now you're at $29,000. The dealer will still make a profit on the $1200 holdback they will see eventually. This dealer split the holdback with me, for even more off. (not my actual numbers, by the way).
3) one last thing I was told is that when dealers do a dealer swap to get your special car from another dealer, that the holdback stays with the dealer who ordered the car, so your dealer can't offer you as low a price compared to one they own.
 
It certainly sounds like the Costco offer is done quite differently in the US.

For me, at the Ford dealerships anyway, it was just another $1,000 off if you were a Costco member. Not sure how that worked though, as all I ever do is negotiate the price with everything in, including taxes, even though I get them back. I basically disregard everything but that final number.
 
Quit buying new about 10+ years ago. Look for 1-2 years old under 30k mileage and some or most warranty remaining. If it's at a dealer, I send email offer to the sales manager with trade$$ plus cash difference that's very aggressive take it or leave it.
CEO at a dealership now has me send the email to him when I want a car he has. If it works for him, I get an email response that says be here by 5pm and it will be ready. I arrive with check and trade, car is washed, paperwork is ready and I'm out in an hour. All our cars are now through the CEO at this dealership and will be for years to come. Weird the way this has evolved, but the prices he sells me the vehicles for are ridiculous, and he knows that if he accepts I show up and take the vehicle. Good both ways I guess.
 
Just recently purchased two new Toyota's. One for DW other for family member, spent numerous hours on line and at dealers. Turns out the best deal by far was using TrueCar. Not only did I save thousands but it truly was the easiest and quickest car buying experience to date. I am a costco member also but Truecar beat the pants off that price. I dont know if you will have the same experience as I but it might be worth a look. Peace
 
Agree with Greg it's usually better to buy low mileage gently-used vehicles, but as with most things there can be exceptions. Our 2013 new Highlander SE with tow package was purchased for the same or less than the asking price for used ones.
 

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