Victron XS DC-DC Charger Advice?

ccourt9283

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RV LIFE Pro
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Apr 15, 2012
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Location
Columbia
I am interested in installing a Victron XS dc-dc charger in my 2018 21c and would appreciate anyone’s advice and pictures of their install. I tow with a 2018 F150 crew
cab 6.5’ bed so it will be a long run from the alternator to the batteries. Currently using the original lead acid batteries but pan to upgrade to the Epoch 460ah lithium one. Amy and all comments are welcome. Thanks.
CC
 
Last edited:
CC,

I also have a 2018 F150 but it tows a 5.0.

Short version:

I have an 50a XS DC/DC charger in the driver side compartment of my 5.0. It replaced the 18A version that came from the factory. Had to run dedicated power from alternator to hitch. I like the XS much much more than the original. Here are a few things I like:
  1. Can limit power draw from tow vehicle as well as power going to batteries. You can set a maximum amperage for each independently. I currently have it set to 25A.
  2. Doesn't get hot. The older 18a would get *very* hot in that closed compartment on warm days. It would get so hot that I considered adding a vent to the compartment door w/ a fan.
  3. Accepts larger gauge wire
  4. In a pinch I can unlock the full power, if needed, even when stationary.
Long version:

My 5.0 shipped from Escape with the Victron Orion 12|12-18 DC/DC charger installed in the driver side exterior compartment. My simple goal with the charger was to supply enough power while driving to offset the refrigerators power drain when on electric and I could arrive at my final destination with fully charged batteries. The solar panels were usually not able to keep up. I prefer to not use propane while driving. We have tunnels around that prohibit propane use but mostly I had a few occurrences of the fridge pilot getting blown out while driving and was greeted with warm food upon arrival. Also will never need a generator.

But right from the start I had all kinds of problems. The unit gets really, really HOT when it's working. Frustratingly annoying problems getting DC/DC to stay "on" consistently. After much mucking around with all the settings I gave up and admitted that the small gauge wiring the F150 provided via the 7-pin connector was never going to work well enough.

So I ran wiring from the battery engine bay all the way back to an Anderson SB50 connector I installed in the bed. I re-wired much of the 7-pin box (all Escape wiring is a mess!) and re-purposed the 12v "power" pin wire and routed it to trigger a large solenoid (hidden in the Lippert pinbox) which connects the main power wire from the F150 battery to the trailer DC/DC battery-in line. Why did I repurpose the 12v power line? Because on the F150 that wire gets energized only when a trailer is detected. No chance of tow vehicle battery draining and it's only hot when main 7-pin connector is attached. Easy automatic on/off switch. So when I am hitching up my trailer I connect the 7-pin connector and then the SB50 power connector.

Since doing those upgrades I have had zero problems getting consistent power from my truck. The voltage drop from the alternator to the DC/DC is minimal. The alternator has plenty of power available (I think it's a ~240 amp alternator) and the solenoid works perfectly. I'm limiting the DC/DC to only 25A because, well, I don't need any more than that but also because the wiring from the DC/DC to the batteries is only 8 awg so probably not enough to support the full 50A without a noticeable voltage drop.

Bottom line: love the XS but you will need to run dedicated wires to fully utilize it along with some other fiddling.

Hope this provides some help/insight.
 
I am interested in installing a Victron XS dc-dc charger in my 2018 21c and would appreciate anyone’s advice and pictures of their install. I tow with a 2018 F150 crew
cab 6.5’ bed so it will be a long run from the alternator to the batteries. Currently using the original lead acid batteries but pan to upgrade to the Epoch 460ah lithium one. Amy and all comments are welcome. Thanks.
CC
IMG_20241110_114546592.jpg
IMG_20241110_114546592.jpg
Merely installing the charge controller isn't adequate. Factory wire size is insufficient to charge a higher amperage battery bank. Your smart charger will not connect. I have 300ah of lithium and as you can see l have a separate #6 marine grade wire from the TV battery through a separate Anderson style plug. You have to remove the ETI wiring from the 7 pin to the dc-dc controller. I recommend that you use a heavier #4 wire given you choice of battery. You also need to upgrade wire size after the DC -DC charger to the battery bank and fuse size to accommodate your increased capacity and heat it will generate.
 
FWIW, I for the then (2018) Sterling 60A DC-DC charger, ran 1/0 wire from the TV battery to the front box of my 15A. Fast forward to this summer and swapping the Sterling for the Victron Orion XS and then this week adding another Orion XS in parallel; glad I installed 1/0 wire originally!

I know most here are not 100% electric, therefore propane assist really stretches the current inflow/outflow of battery/batteries. But, my 15A is all electric and the winter month's of solar gain, even with ~1000w of PV panels, just can't keep up with demand even with 400Ah/5200W of LFP. Hence the addition of another Orion XS (and a 250A HP alternator on the TV).
 
Thank you for all your advice. I was planning to use 2 awg wire but it sounds like I need to use1/0. I’m not sure what the stock alternator output is. I a. Replacing the Gopower 190w panel with 2 - 240w panels on the trailer and 2 on the truck cap.
I am sorry I haven’t responded sooner but my wife and I are in Europe for a few days.
Happy Holidays to all.
 

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