Vinyl floor needs replaced

Ed1

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Nov 8, 2014
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Ft. Lauderdale
2011 19’ needs vinyl floor replaced. Has anyone, glued new vinyl over the older? The vinyl runs under the cabinets, so my plan is to remove the moldings, glue new vinyl down, then put new molding down. The molding color is printed on the wood, no chance to match correctly. Plan to make my own out of red oak with the table saw. Can not find anything to match in Birmingham Al. It is a really hard job because the cabinets are not exactly parallel to each other.
 
If you are going to the effort of installing new and making trim for it, I would pull out the old vinyl. I know it is not a lot of weight but leaving it there will add weight and over time all and all these little weight increases add up.

Of course I am a bit of a weight weeny and like to keep weight down don't like carrying anything I won't use.
 
I have used Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT) AKA click vinyl, in a bunch of tailers and no glue is required. If you use the foam backed tile just lay it over what you have. If you install it when everything is warm you don't have to worry too much about expansion in the narrow space of a trailer. You can get by with no molding and calking the edges if needed. It's a lot easier than dealing with sheet goods.
Eddie
 
Did two RV floors last year; first was the Escape 21 and I found a remnant of Corlon- a commercial grade vinyl. Had a Pro do the install; he carefully removed and replace the original base shoe and glued it right on top of the original floor. Took him about three hours and charged me $300, which was worth it to me with all the cuts needed. Came out perfect.

Next was the Transit van. Used the same pro and just before he opened the glue he told me it could be floated which is awesome in case something happens to it I won't have to go over the top like the trailer floor. That product is Mannington Paradigm II Intersect, which is also a commercial grade and it doesn't bunch or lift at corners- and there is no base shoe in the van. It would be a good product for the trailer as well.
 
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Pull all the trim pieces of the bottom of the wood walls then trim the existing vinyl tight to the wall. Cut the new vinyl to fit while loose, then holing in place to about half back and apply adhesive and press the vinyl into place. Then do the adhesive on the other half. Put the trims on and you are done.

The advantage to this is costly reducing weight and secondly it allows for a bit of flour leveling if needed.

I did something similar with my 19, but instead of vinyl used glue down Cork.

Sorry if this all was covered, I made the post right after you posted, the doorbell rang, and I forgot got a while. [emoji16]
 
You basically have 3 choices. First is the traditional old fashioned glue down type. Second is a type that's basically glue down around a few inches of the perimeter only, it shrinks the vinyl making it taunt. But the third type is loose lay and it's all I use now in rental renos. It tends to be better quality.

Lots of choices.

Ron
 
You basically have 3 choices.
...
Second is a type that's basically glue down around a few inches of the perimeter only, it shrinks the vinyl making it taunt.
I put the second type in a home kitchen. It has to be relatively soft to be stretchy, and as a result it isn't particularly durable. I wouldn't use it in an RV.
 
Are folks' vinyl floors curling around edges, wearing through in spots, or just looking surface-worn? Curious to know what to expect if I get the standard vinyl that ETI provides.
 
I put the second type in a home kitchen. It has to be relatively soft to be stretchy, and as a result it isn't particularly durable. I wouldn't use it in an RV.

It's an option but I used it once and that was enough. Seemed very sensitive to sunlight.

I wouldn't use anything but loose lay. Easy to use and looks so good compared to some other types. The first time I saw one with a tile pattern in a friends newly renovated place I actually had to kneel down and touch it. It looked so real but is so much more forgiving of dropped china.

Ron
 
Are folks' vinyl floors curling around edges, wearing through in spots, or just looking surface-worn? Curious to know what to expect if I get the standard vinyl that ETI provides.

Ours had some minor splitting almost immediately in the fake grout lines. No curling as every corner is tucked into cabinet, beds etc. Maybe they're using better stock flooring now, yet our 2010 17B had way better flooring than the 2014 21 we have now.
 
Some friends with an Airstream trailer covered their floor with Allure vinyl strips, it looked good for awhile. Our summers are 100° and winters get to 20°. They placed the Allure during the summer. By the next summer all the vinyl tiles were loose and absolutely did not fit. Comparing a home installation to a travel trailer installation should not be done as homes have a steady temperature. Our Escape trailers are going to see wild variations in humidity and temperature. And yes, we are looking for flooring replacement as our factory original flooring is showing scuffs. We have over 30,000 miles and well over 500 nights in our 2018 E19.
 
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How to cut a one piece sheet of vinyl, for a perfect fit. But, I would still try and get the molding off. Make a paper pattern(building paper is best, but thin cardboard works). Tape the "T" shape well. You don't have to have it tight to corners/edges, but around an 1"space is OK. Cut triangles out of paper all around the edges. Smooth out, then cover triangle cuts with good tape & some thin on the edges(to hold pattern PUT from bunching up, as you crawl around). Take a builders framing SQ is best, but any ruler type thing with a metal edge to run your cutting knife against. You lay metal edge tight to wall all around the whole edge, & marking your line on the INSIDE of SQ/ruler. Pull the pattern slowly up. Place on it sheet goods per the pattern lining up. Push the tape back down in triangles(might have add some new & thin piece down edges) if got too dirty & not sticking well. Now you lay your SQ/ruler down with the backside lined on your marked line like it was. The metal edge is now AT the same place as your wall was. Make your cut, moving the Sq/ruler along. If using framing SQ, make sure you are using the SAME side 1 1/2" vs 2", as you were when marking.
 
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2014 Flooring

Are folks' vinyl floors curling around edges, wearing through in spots, or just looking surface-worn? Curious to know what to expect if I get the standard vinyl that ETI provides.
I've got the stock factory sheet vinyl from 2014. It has held up very well.
I live on the wet coast so don't usually get massive temps swings nor extremes either way.
 
Are folks' vinyl floors curling around edges, wearing through in spots, or just looking surface-worn? Curious to know what to expect if I get the standard vinyl that ETI provides.

So much depends on the user and their habits and how many people and pets use the trailer. For example, do they wear sand coated boots or socks inside? We're socks inside and a couple of throw rugs and the factory vinyl in both our trailers has remained pristine.

How to cut a one piece sheet of vinyl, for a perfect fit. But, I would still try and get the molding off. Make a paper pattern(building paper is best, but thin cardboard works).

I agree, gently pry the baseboard off. Not doing so is amateur league.

I've often had to replace kitchen or bathroom vinyl at a distance. That is, measure at one place and come home and cut the vinyl. My method is to take strips of 1/8" plywood about 2" wide and push them against the wall and hot melt glue them together. Makes a pattern, sometimes in several pieces, that very accurately replicates the shape. Building boats it's the only way to capture the desired shape. Whatever works.

Ron
 
Some friends with an Airstream trailer covered their floor with Allure vinyl strips, it looked good for awhile. Our summers are 100° and winters get to 20°. They placed the Allure during the summer. By the next summer all the vinyl tiles were loose and absolutely did not fit. Comparing a home installation to a travel trailer installation should not be done as homes have a steady temperature. Our Escape trailers are going to see wild variations in humidity and temperature. And yes, we are looking for flooring replacement as our factory original flooring is showing scuffs. We have over 30,000 miles and well over 500 nights in our 2018 E19.

We used allure in our Scamp to very good results over several years. We don’t use it in bitter cold, so that may help. Also, we have very soft insulating layer under that allows it to move a bit, I suppose. It is truly floating, but feels great to stand on. I think the span of the floor and the underlying layer really make a difference.
 
My trailer is 2011. It has been across the US from Florida to Seattle 3 times. Lived in it for months at a time. The problem is some how it got a hand full of 1”cuts in the floor. It’s still usable, but when you spend a lot of time in it, I want it to look good.
What I don’t like is the floor moldings are printed wood and the finish has warned off and it truly looks bad. Can not find replacement material for the floor molding or the corner round that is broken. I will be fabricating it myself,
 
My trailer is 2011. It has been across the US from Florida to Seattle 3 times. Lived in it for months at a time. The problem is some how it got a hand full of 1”cuts in the floor. It’s still usable, but when you spend a lot of time in it, I want it to look good.
What I don’t like is the floor moldings are printed wood and the finish has warned off and it truly looks bad. Can not find replacement material for the floor molding or the corner round that is broken. I will be fabricating it myself,

When I replaced the floor with wood laminate I used real oak wood molding.
 

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