Water heater anode stuck

[caheaton]

I'm in a bit of a quandary. Winterizing our 21c today and was unable to remove the anode to drain . It appears to be a combination of installed too deep at factory (only 1 or 2 threads showing) combined with rust.

Tried a wrench, electric impact wrench and a hammer style impact. None of them made it budge. I'm also hoping that the hammer style impact didn't damage the porcelain lined tank.

Any ideas? Were expecting freezing conditions in about 10 to 12 days from now. I already a winterized the rest of the system, but if I must I may just route the lines to the tank and flush the water out with antifreeze.

A bummer as we've only owned it for 4 months...shocked the plug would be so stuck already.

 

[BravoDeltaRomeo]

I would try a 2' breaker bar first.

Righty tighty. Lefty Loosey.

 

[Steve Clark]

Yes! And if you are lucky enough to remove the anode, when you reinstall it, be sure to use Teflon tape, and apply no more than 15-20 lbs. of torque to the anode. It does not need to be cranked tighter.

 

[Ron in BC]

The threads rust. It sounds like you've used a reasonable amount of force without damaging anything.

Before using a longer breaker bar I'd take a propane torch and thoroughly heat round and round the anode and then immediately use the breaker bar.

Ron

 

[HABBERDABBER]

The rust dissolving sprays may help, after trying with a heat application. My brother suggested this and it's worked for me. After a rust spray, tap moderately, repeatedly on the fitting. Don't rush...take multiple sprays and taps and tap sessions. Then use that 2' breaker bar.

As good old Archimedes said:
Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole world.

Either heat, lubricant or tapping breakup the corrosion bond between the 2 fittings.

 

[huskersteffy]

I have found that it is best to reinstall the anode rod (with Teflon tape) after winterization instead of leaving the threaded hole open because of the rust that builds up on the threads.

 

[BravoDeltaRomeo]

I have found that it is best to reinstall the anode rod (with Teflon tape) after winterization instead of leaving the threaded hole open because of the rust that builds up on the threads.

Yes. Plus it stops critters/bugs from entering the tank and you don't have to remember where you put it in the spring.

 

[Ron in BC]

Yes, there's different ways to go about it. But I've found heat well and immediately twist to be the most effective and quickest. Spraying with WD-40 etc. cools the metal and starts to work against an easy release. It sometime works, but not as quickly. Sometimes it needs more heat which causes the WD-40 to flare off but sometimes that works too.

Heat almost always does the job. Only rarely do I have to go for my 4' piece of pipe.

Ron

 

[Kingfisher]

OK, definitely a dumb question here, but doesn’t the anode have to be electrically grounded to the tank for it to be effective? And wouldn’t teflon tape electrically isolate the anode from the tank? What am I missing?

 

[Donna D.]

Yes! And if you are lucky enough to remove the anode, when you reinstall it, be sure to use Teflon tape, and apply no more than 15-20 lbs. of torque to the anode. It does not need to be cranked tighter.

It doesn't need to be cranked at all! Finger tight, or just tight enough that it doesn't leak.

 

[BobCS]

Mine was so tight (on a brand new E23) I could not budge it with my 15 inch breaker bar, WD-40, tapping, ice on the anode, patience, etc. Did not try heat. Took it to my local RV service and they got it quickly with bigger tools and did not charge me anything. Re-installed with Teflon tape and much less torque.

 

[alanmalk]

OK, definitely a dumb question here, but doesn’t the anode have to be electrically grounded to the tank for it to be effective? And wouldn’t teflon tape electrically isolate the anode from the tank? What am I missing?

With the exception of the "dumb" part: All true. But teflon tape never stays intact in my experience. Some of the sharp metal gets thru the tape and makes the electrical contact.

 

[Selkirk]

Heat almost always does the job.

Make sure the safety valve is open prior to heating up the anode with a torch. You don't want to inadvertently pressurize the tank...and have the anode shoot out once loosened up.

 

[Ron in BC]

It appears to be a combination of installed too deep at factory (only 1 or 2 threads showing) combined with rust.

A bummer as we've only owned it for 4 months...shocked the plug would be so stuck already.

Going back to the original post.

It wasn't put in too deep. National Pipe Threads are tapered. The effort to turn them one complete turn after they're firmly in is large. I've been caught out trying to get "one more turn".

You may have only had it for 3 months but it may have been leak tested at the factory and sat for a length of time with residual moisture. I've bought new parts that were manufactured a year before.

As others have pointed out the teffie tape gets cut by the treads and doesn't affect grounding.

Ron

 

[outwiththedogs]

How many threads should be showing? I recently winterized and when putting the anode back in it wouldn’t thread in very far, say about halfway on the threads. It is not cross threaded and I am using a wrap of teflon tape (not too thick). Now I am second guessing myself as to how far it is supposed to go in.
Thanks for any advice,
Catherine

 

[Centex]

How many threads should be showing?

Don't worry about 'threads showing', just clean the threads in the WH hole with a small wire brush, use the teflon tape, and tighten only enough to prevent leaking.

 

[iamunique127]

Yes. Plus it stops critters/bugs from entering the tank and you don't have to remember where you put it in the spring.

Thanks for the reminder. I had left my anode out with a strip of towel in the hole to wick out the remaining water. Your post made me remember that we get lady bugs wintering in various places in the trailer and, with the continued warm weather we're having, they are still active. I stopped in yesterday and replaced the anode finger tight. I hope I remember to flush the tank and tighten it up in the spring.

 

[BravoDeltaRomeo]

Thanks for the reminder. I had left my anode out with a strip of towel in the hole to wick out the remaining water. Your post made me remember that we get lady bugs wintering in various places in the trailer and, with the continued warm weather we're having, they are still active. I stopped in yesterday and replaced the anode finger tight. I hope I remember to flush the tank and tighten it up in the spring.

Tons of ladybugs in Winnipeg this year.

 

[Jim Bennett]

I had left my anode out with a strip of towel in the hole to wick out the remaining water.

Curious as why you do this. In other 30 years of owning a travel trailer I have never done so and never had a problem. After flushing I just leave the dregs to freeze.

 

[caheaton]

Just I thought I'd post an update....I contacted Suburban and they agreed that I could bring it in to a service center to have the drain plug removed / replaced under warranty. My nearest service center is just 5 miles away, but fingers crossed that I can get my trailer back before December when we have a trip planned. The RV service center indicated that they're backed up right now with winterizations, but want me to drop it off Thursday so they can get me on their schedule. Will be required to leave it there.

For those that are interested, I've attached a photo of the drain plug as it is now....