Water pick up tube in fresh water tank...

[dstreight]

I don't have experience with the fresh tank on any other model than my 15A. After draining, blowing out through the city water port, there is still enough water in the tank (probably 1/8"-1/4" depth) it would take an inordinate amount of time to get it dried out, especially given the paltry amount of air flow through it...if any.

So, I've ordered the Armstrong 6" deck plate that I will mount on the top side of the tank. And I've ordered 1-1/2"NPTF spin weld fittings along with the tool so I can install a fitting on the vertical passenger side wall of the tank to allow me to get a high pressure spray nozzle (ala self-serve car wash) into the tank for better cleaning when its not practical for me to drop the tank.

And, I plan to install one if not two of the same fittings to the bottom of the tank to better aid in draining with/without tank contaminants. The spin-weld fittings are the protruding type so that the interior portion of the fitting remains flush/nearly flush with the tank for more efficient draining.

Sheesh, what an ordeal!

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Nutin' is easy or simple

Your plan of modifications sounds like it will address the issue very well.
BRAVO!
The cooties will be gone, gone.

HOLD FAST!

 

[Ron in BC]

One mis-leading aspect about draining the tank is that it's dry except for the small amount of water on the bottom.

On tanks that I've had that had large cleanout ports I could see that because of the extremely humid interior there were large beads of moisture hanging from the top surface. I think that by the time those beads dry out some things might have started to grow.

At any rate, having seen enough ugly stuff in tanks to put me off drinking the water I'm a great believer in filling the tank with chlorine added and letting it sit. Seems to do a good job as I've never seen any evidence of stuff growing in my Escape tanks.

Cleanouts that allow for physical inspection and cleaning would be a plus.

Ron

 

[Chamberman]

So, I've ordered the Armstrong 6" deck plate that I will mount on the top side of the tank. And I've ordered 1-1/2"NPTF spin weld fittings along with the tool so I can install a fitting on the vertical passenger side wall of the tank to allow me to get a high pressure spray nozzle (ala self-serve car wash) into the tank for better cleaning when its not practical for me to drop the tank.

And, I plan to install one if not two of the same fittings to the bottom of the tank to better aid in draining with/without tank contaminants. The spin-weld fittings are the protruding type so that the interior portion of the fitting remains flush/nearly flush with the tank for more efficient draining.

I'll be very interested to see how your spin welding comes out. Please post pics and any tips you may have for doing the work. I'd really like to add additional clean out ports on our fresh water tank as well.

 

[dstreight]

This problem just keeps getting more bizarre with each passing day it seems!

I removed the tank this morning and was able to peer inside the tank and I just still can't believe the amount of "bio-slime" that is in the tank! The amount is equivalent to a small tee shirt, or larger, in square inches!!! No wonder why the pump couldn't get water...

What you see, with my shoe for size reference, is only about 1/2 of what I got out of the tank and THERE'S STILL MORE IN THE TANK TO REMOVE!

And, you can see there is no chance all the water will drain from the tank through the drain port (right hand fitting) as it sits about 1/2" or so above the bottom of the tank. Even considering the slope of the tank, there will be at least 2-3 quarts (best guess) left inside the tank.

Pics for your entertainment.

 

[Rockhead]

Look like it’s time to cut bait n fish so to speak. I’d be replacing the whole tank with new one. Wouldn’t trust the water even if you got it completely cleaned out.

 

[HABBERDABBER]

I see no reason it can't be re-used

After your thorough cleaning & modifications, you certainly should be able to sterilize the tank. Bleach (non-foaming) isopropyl alcohol, a UV light inside it (I have a battery operated one)......others can suggest additional sterilizing agents....the process is done all the time.

Just be thorough.

Weird that it happened this year.

I think you've got the forum members all checking their tanks.

I don't use the water from my tank for drinking, but carry jugs of H20 filled with tap water. I'm way too frugal to buy bottled water.

 

[dstreight]

After your thorough cleaning & modifications, you certainly should be able to sterilize the tank. Bleach (non-foaming) isopropyl alcohol, a UV light inside it (I have a battery operated one)......others can suggest additional sterilizing agents....the process is done all the time.

Just be thorough.

Weird that it happened this year.

I think you've got the forum members all checking their tanks.

I don't use the water from my tank for drinking, but carry jugs of H20 filled with tap water. I'm way too frugal to buy bottled water.

The only difference between this year and previous year's regarding tank prep/sanitizing: I used Purogene this year. Going back to simple and effective household bleach...never had a problem.

I cut the 6-3/4" hole in the top of the tank for the Armstrong hatch that is in route. I just got back from the self-serve car wash to get the bulk of the contaminants out of the tank & fitting threads. It was surprising how relatively bonded some of the bio-slime was to the bottom of the tank. It took about 15-20 seconds with the high pressure water spray to dislodge some of it.

I actually thought about replacing the tank with a larger tank but the only tank that would make sense, fitment wise, is only 4-gallons more capacity and I'd have to do a custom mount, etc., etc. If not for wanting to use the trailer for the next couple of months I might have gone that direction.

But, I'm not concerned about getting the OEM tank sanitized 100%...it is sitting in the sun for the next week or so while I wait for parts to arrive.

Same here regarding not using the fresh water tank for drinking water purposes; but for showers and dishwashing...which, given the mold/algae/bio-slime I wouldn't use it for those purposes either (of course).

Crazy!

 

[HABBERDABBER]

A wild guess

Somewhere this year, you may have filled up your water and got a virulent strain of slime producing cootie bug in your tank.

I dunno. Possible.

 

[iamunique127]

Motorcycle gas tanks are sometimes lined with an epoxy or other treatment if there are leaks. Often that treatment delaminates and looks like what you've got going on. Especially seeing as it was difficult to remove with a pressure washer it makes me wonder if the tank has been lined at some point. With no spray foam protecting the tank from light exposure, perhaps the tank was coated for that reason.

Just making wild guesses but it seems like it's been intentionally lined.

 

[dstreight]

I don't think the tanks are lined. The material I got out of the tank matches photos and descriptions I've found on the web of "bio-slime".

Update: Yesterday I received the 6" Armstrong round hatch, cut the top of the tank and installed the hatch and it functions perfectly and as described by Armstrong. Color me impressed! I filled the tank with fresh water + bleach and either later today or tomorrow will drain and scrub the interior of the tank.

Still waiting for spin-weld fittings and tool to arrive.

 

[Centex]

Still waiting for spin-weld fittings and tool to arrive.

in the meantime would you mind posting a link to the source(s)?

TIA

 

[Thane-ESC]

Good plan, we hope it helps solve your problem.

A few years ago, I had a drain spin fitting installed on my 17B freshwater tank because the stock drain fitting had broken. The spin fitting inner diameter is approximately one and three-quarter inches. It works really well, the tank drains at a rapid rate. A picture is attached.

I installed the threaded drain plug upside down in the spin fitting so that the hex head is internal to the tank, this is to reduce the threat of road debris. I use an old bicycle wrench and an Allen wrench to install and remove the drain plug. You can see the drain plug sticking out the drain a little in the first picture. A picture of the plug and tool is attached.

I use a homemade spray wand to clean the inside of the tank. I think the tank is small enough that the spray wand covers the inside of the tank well. A picture is attached.

The spin fitting greatly reduces the amount of trapped water after I drain the tank. The stock drain left approximately 1.9 gallons (243 ounces) of water trapped inside the tank. The spin fitting left approximately 28 ounces.

 

[DT6]

I agree with Rockhead, in that at some point the effort and expense seem to indicate that a new tank might be an easier choice? Doing a very quick/top-level web search indicates a new tank is less than $200. I do like the ideas regarding adding a bigger drain to the tank, and that is a definite addition to my "to do" list, and even moves that near the top of the list.

Good luck with your solution and thanks for bringing this up as it's not something I've worried much about so far as the two or three times a year I actually get under the trailer, the tank looks okay. Now I know!

 

[Ron in BC]

A few years ago, I had a drain spin fitting installed on my 17B freshwater tank because the stock drain fitting had broken.

Nicely done.

Ron

 

[dstreight]

in the meantime would you mind posting a link to the source(s)?

TIA

Armstrong Nautical for deck plates: https://armstrongnautical.com/pages/armstrong-boat-deck-plates

I went with the 6" and seems about the right size especially if you plan to cut an access hole (I will do this on my 15A) so that you can spray the tank out/clean the tank out without having to remove the tank... Otherwise the 8" might be even better.

Vintage Trailer Supply for spin weld tools & fittings: https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/spin-weld-driver-tool-vts-624/

They have the best prices on the tools I found on the internet. Icon is another very good supplier, however their tools are significantly more expensive. https://www.icondirect.com/spin-weld-driver-1-raised-fpt/

And Alcaro Plastics in BC Canada is the tank supplier for Escape: https://www.alcaroplastics.com
I purchased the gray tank earlier this year from Alcaro and they were super helpful and responsive.

 

[dstreight]

With regard to the Armstrong Nautical deck plate: Instructions state to cut a 6" hole in the tank for use with the 6.75" round deck plate, which I did. If I had to do it over again I'd start with a 5" or maybe 5.5" diameter hole. This, I believe, would increase the overlap between the tank and the rubber seal making it easier/better to position accurately and more simply.

 

[Thane-ESC]

Could you put a larger hatch in the floor to allow access to the water tank hatch, if not now maybe in the future?

 

[dstreight]

Could you put a larger hatch in the floor to allow access to the water tank hatch, if not now maybe in the future?

Yes, that was my plan until I determined, earlier today, the Armstrong hatch isn't water tight . I had a discussion with their product support before I ordered the hatch about whether or not using it on an RV fresh water tank would be within their application spec and was assured it would function perfectly.

My concern, about whether it would be suitable or not, came from the fact the tank's top (and bottom) is flexible compared to, say a 1/2" wall thickness tank. The tank's top is just too flexible to effectively seal it water tight...

So, it looks like I'll have to order a new tank and forget about any hatch idea.

Never ends.

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Ouch!

Bummer on the leakge.
As a last ditch effort, try some butyl tape as the flange sealant. That material is pliable, thick and adheres & seals very well to just about everything.
But your tank may be too bulged in that area.

Just a thought.