What gets the bugs off?

Rejex

We use Rejex also. Rita waxes the front and the leading edge of the awning arms more than once a year. For a wash job we use Meguires Gold car wash soap. It does not remove the Rejex. For campgrounds where washing is not allowed, I will be your lookout for a couple cold beers. If the host comes from the wrong way on one way road in a high speed golf cart you’re on your own. I can only do so much.
Iowa Dave
 
What nixed using Rejex for me is that you need to keep it out of the elements for 8-12 hours while it cures. I have no shelter for it.
 
What nixed using Rejex for me is that you need to keep it out of the elements for 8-12 hours while it cures. I have no shelter for it.

I didn't recall this and have had good results. Here is what I found.

#4. Allow RejeX to cure for 8-12 hours out of the elements. The higher the humidity, the faster RejeX cures.

From "Frequently asked questions"
You state that RejeX needs to cure for twelve hours "out of the elements." This seems to indicate that it is not suitable for use unless the vehicle being treated can be stored inside for the prescribed period.
By “out of the elements” we mean to avoid direct sunlight that could heat the application surface excessively. Don’t apply RejeX when there’s a probability of imminent rain. Don’t park the vehicle under a tree where sap can drip on it. In short, RejeX is usually applied outdoors. But it’s important to select a good day and apply RejeX in an area where it’s not likely to get stains on it until it has had the chance to cure for at least several hours.
 
Does Rejex hold up better to being exposed to the Elements than 303 protectant
I tried 303 hoping it would replace waxing and buffing but it only seems to last about 2 weeks or 2 good rains so I went back to using Meguiars
 
Does Rejex hold up better to being exposed to the Elements than 303 protectant
I tried 303 hoping it would replace waxing and buffing but it only seems to last about 2 weeks or 2 good rains so I went back to using Meguiars
I use it once a year in Oregon - and we get a LOT more rain than I did when I lived in Madison, WI.
 
I didn't recall this and have had good results. Here is what I found.

#4. Allow RejeX to cure for 8-12 hours out of the elements. The higher the humidity, the faster RejeX cures.

From "Frequently asked questions"
You state that RejeX needs to cure for twelve hours "out of the elements." This seems to indicate that it is not suitable for use unless the vehicle being treated can be stored inside for the prescribed period.
By “out of the elements” we mean to avoid direct sunlight that could heat the application surface excessively. Don’t apply RejeX when there’s a probability of imminent rain. Don’t park the vehicle under a tree where sap can drip on it. In short, RejeX is usually applied outdoors. But it’s important to select a good day and apply RejeX in an area where it’s not likely to get stains on it until it has had the chance to cure for at least several hours.

Good to know, although a bit late. Maybe I'll use it on the truck cap.
 
I’m surprised that after reading all the responses that the “standard” used by RVers for years was not mentioned. Believe it or not, a wet dryer sheet does a very good job on smooshed bugs. Maybe not so much if they have been baked on for days but a quick wipe & fresh water rinse after stopping for the night will do the job. I even do it on my bicycle which rides on the front of the truck.
 
It has been my experience that if you keep wetting them every 4 or 5 minutes over a period of time they will soften and remove much easier than if you hose them and immediately try to sponge them off. But what do I know, I live in Florida where there are no bugs! :whistling:
 
Butter. Smear it on and let it sit for a while. It also will soften tree sap. No matter what you use to clean it, since it is the front and constantly exposed to 6-legged critters, it doesn’t hurt to put another coat of wax on the area that seems to collect the “flying hordes.”
Hmmm? I assume the butter doesn’t harm the gel coat, correct? Do you have to rewax? Thanks.
 
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Next time you are near a Honda Powersports dealership, pick up a can of Honda Spray Cleaner Polish. It's formulated to remove bugs and stuff from delicate helmet face shields. Also works great on painted surfaces. Give a generous spray and let it sit for a few seconds then wipe of. Smells pretty good too.
 
First --well today - I removed the fitted sheet. Can't remember when I last washed the thing.
 

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Color capsule

Do I need to put the yellow dye in the oleo or will it work just as well without it? Inquiring minds want to know. Bill
Hey Bill
I remember the color capsule and the hue and cry from dairymen in iowa when they opened the way to sell yellow margarine in Iowa. I think Minnesota was first, then iowa and then as they say it down here “Wesconsin.” But I wouldn’t bet a stick of butter either way. We do not buy margarine, only butter. And Wisconsin cheese about 95% of the time. Sometimes some
tillamook.
Iowa Dave
 
Put hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle. Spray bugs as.soon as you can, let set for 5 or 10 minutes then wash as usual. The HP breaks down the enzymes in the bugs. Basically softens and eats the sticky off..lol
 
I've always used bug and tar remover (several different brands) and it has worked well enough.

After reading this thread I tried the drier sheets. They worked well but left such a difficult-to-remove residue that I didn't use them again.

The last time I needed some bug remover I decided to spend a couple extra bucks and try the Autoglym Car Active Insect Remover Spray.

GfmNkec.jpg


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/autoglym-car-active-insect-remover-spray-500-ml-0393602p.0393602.html?rq=bug+remover#srp

I used it yesterday on some bugs we accumulated on a recent jaunt and it worked the best of anything I've tried to date. Everything dissolved with a light rub and it all rinsed off with the garden hose. And, it left no residue.
 

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