What is that vinyl stuff on the walls? .......

After all the discussion about leaks, yesterday I checked all the caulking on our May 2015 Escape 21. Even though the thin layer of clear sealant around the windows, doors and lights looked fine, I ran my finger along it and gently pulled back on the edge every inch or so. I found no areas where it pulled free, including around the three top lights at the back that some people reported warping on.

Then I got on a ladder and checked the roof. I previously didn’t notice that the sealant on the roof was different from the rubbery, self leveling stuff that was on our stick built trailer with the rubber roof. Instead it was hard and plastic-like. I had a concern with its application to the fridge vent, because there are a few places where the sealant doesn’t fill the gap between the vent and the roof. It could be that it is well sealed, despite the gap, but because the gap is very deep I can’t tell for sure and would like to cover it better.

I looked at the air conditioner and couldn’t see any sealant around it, but I was looking at it from a distance on the stepladder, so I wasn’t sure.

I decided to call ETI for advice on what the sealants were and especially the roof stuff so I can completely cover the gaps.

Today I heard from Tammy, who went out to the shop to get answers to my questions about caulking. I also asked her about some of the concerns expressed here on what happens to the vinyl and insulation when there is a leak, as well as other potential damage. Her responses were:

What is the roof sealant?
Tammy said it was Sikaflex, but I didn’t record which product exactly. I thought she said it was one of their marine products, but which one?

She said I could cover the gaps after cleaning the current caulking with paint thinner.

Is there any sealant on the air conditioner to check?
Tammy said there was a gasket plus some silicone as a back up. She said this did not need to be checked.

I asked about the advice I got from Adventure RV (Repairs) to pull back on every inch of caulking rather than rely on a visual inspection. She seemed to agree that this was a good thing.

What happens if water gets past the caulking? Does the water cause the insulation and vinyl to release? What other damage can you expect?
Tammy said that the water would not cause the insulation or vinyl t o release. She also said that the foam is closed cell (not open cell), and so would not absorb the moisture. They also use marine grade plywood, plus the drain ports to funnel water away.

Tammy suggested that maybe Reace could post on this thread to address some of the concerns about the consequences of leak damage. What great folk these people are.

Bob K
 

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"Tammy said that the foam is closed cell (not open cell), and so would not absorb the moisture."

Good to clear that speculation up, thanks for sharing here
 
Is there anyway to attach any thing to the walls? Do people use rivets?
Bite your tongue gal! :laugh:

There aren't any thru rivets on an Escape... unlike that other brand of trailer I own.

Folks have found lots of flat places on the cabinetry to hang all kinds of things. What specifically are you looking to attach?
 
I have a magazine rack, frame photo that I hang in the carpeting on my Casita walls. Maybe a spice rack, some additional hooks.
Nancy
 
The best way to attach something to the shell, is to cut out a small piece of the vinyl liner down to the fibreglass shell, clean that off, and epoxy 1/2" plywood blocks to the shell. You can then use screws to firmly attach whatever you want, which hopefully covers the block you epoxied in.

Most folks just attach items to the interior walls though.
 
Every mod should be reversible. You can find many ways to secure spice racks, hooks, etc to the inside walls but cutting or drilling through the vinyl for any purpose would quickly become your biggest regret. Don't even think about it.


I should not worry about water leakage around the air conditioner. A thick wide gasket rims the underside and you apply a sealant all around the rough roof opening then drop the unit down, and it clamps tight to the roof with a screwed in frame inside.
 
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Every mod should be reversible. You can find many ways to secure spice racks, hooks, etc to the inside walls but cutting or drilling through the vinyl for any purpose would quickly become your biggest regret. Don't even think about it.

Myron, this is the method that Escape uses for all their attachments to the shell. There is nothing wrong with attaching something permanent this way, I did it, and hove no regrets. Not sure how this is different that any interior modifications done on/to walls and cabinets. I plan to do lots of that too.

The biggest thing is though, is that there is little available exterior wall space to use anyway, with the large amount of window area, little flat wall is left.
 
Not me. I don't hesitate to drill or screw into the wood cabinet walls because they're just wood. But the vinyl? What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
 
Not me. I don't hesitate to drill or screw into the wood cabinet walls because they're just wood. But the vinyl? What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?

You are going to have to ask that sage baglo about that one. LOL

But no different than the Escape installed stuff, I would only do it if deemed to be permanent, as pretty much every mod is. Besides, it is not that tough to patch the vinyl if you ever wanted to.
 
There's little vinyl area for hanging things anyway, as has been said. We mount things to the bulkhead walls and wood instead.


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