WINTERIZING: updated Oct. 29, 2013

jamie beers said:
The Camco instructions differ from the ETI instructions. Camco says to pump antifreeze through the system after blowing out lines, and to leave the water heater drain plug open.
Click to expand...

Like anything, there are many ways to skin a cat. Just so long as you don't have enough water in your system anywhere, that when it freezes causes damage due to expansion.

Why bother blowing out the lines, if you are going to put antifreeze in them, as it will push the water out. And, does it really matter if the anode is back in the water heater if it is completely drained?

In the end, it comes down to what a person is comfortable with. The only time I have ever had an issue myself, it was due to a brain fart, and forgetting to clear the toilet valve.
 
Jim, I agree. Why should one have to blow out the lines after draining water taps and low point drains? Doesn't the pumped in antifreeze displace any residual water that my be left in the lines?
 
Why blow out the lines if you're going to use antifreeze anyways? I suppose, like most such questions, it might come down to how fussy or how cautious you are...

The freezing point of antifreeze depends on the concentration of the antifreeze. Dilute it with a little water, and the freezing point rises. So if you push antifreeze through with water still in the lines, the antifreeze might get a little diluted and it might raise the freezing point.

Enough to matter? I doubt it, but I don't know. I can certainly imagine a little eddy in a corner of the toilet valve where water collects but doesn't easily get flushed out.
 
I've read a few posts from people who have had toilet valves crack.

My understanding is that the way to deal with the toilet valve, if you're winterizing by blowing out with an air compressor, is to hold the toilet valve open while blowing air through the lines ( I think this just means pulling on the 'flushing handle'?). This will blow out any water remaining in the new type of valve?
 
I agree with Doug - the less water which is in the plumbing before pumping in antifreeze, the less risk there is of inadequate protection... or the less antifreeze is wasted flushing it through until there isn't any more water in the mix.
 
The way I figure is: after draining all water out of system through taps, hot water heater and low point drain by using water pump, by pass hot water heater, add pink RV Antifreeze, turn on each tap one at a time, shower heads one at a time and flush toilet until pink fluid runs freely. I doubt very much, if any, water will remain to dilute the antifreeze.
RV Antifreeze is not very expensive when you really think about it.
At HomeDepot it costs $8.47 for 9.46 L
 
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To get rid of most of the water before pumping in antifreeze (if using antifreeze), a low point drain seems sufficient to me. The only situation in which I would consider blowing out water before adding antifreeze would be if there were no low point drain (which is the case for some Escapes).

My guess is that Reace eliminated the low point drain to keep people from depending on draining alone after the change in the toilet valve. As another benefit, eliminating the valve eliminates a complication for insulating the underside. I think I would still rather have the drain(s).
 
I don't have any low point drains in Ten Forward. But, I was able to purchase 20/10 RV Antifreeze at Bi-Mart last week for $2.99 a gallon.

I have a very old (but works fine), Black & Deck Air Station. Does anyone know if it would work to blow out the lines, if I get a blow out plug? The end of the hose has a lever you rotate and that squeezes rubber against the stem for a seal. I air up bicycle tires and the trailer tires with the air station...
 
Could be wrong, but I think the problem with the type of air compressor you buy for $20 to fill bicycle tires and such is that it doesn't deliver a constant pressure. It cycles on and off as the pump works so water in the lines would just flow forward and back.
A proper air compressor has a tank that contains a considerable amount of pressurized air, enough to clear the lines without back flow.
 
gbaglo said:
Could be wrong, but I think the problem with the type of air compressor you buy for $20 to fill bicycle tires and such is that it doesn't deliver a constant pressure. It cycles on and off as the pump works so water in the lines would just flow forward and back.
A proper air compressor has a tank that contains a considerable amount of pressurized air, enough to clear the lines without back flow.
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No the air station doesn't cycle on and off at all. I think when I get back from Fall NOG I'll just try it. And then let y'all know the results ;)
 
Presumably, the only way you will know if it worked is to blow out the lines again, using a proper air compressor. If no water comes out, then it worked.
That's why I like using the pink stuff. I know it has filled the lines when the tap runs pink.
I used the low point drain and my 6 gal. compressor, but always had a nagging feeling that maybe I didn't get all the water out.
 
gbaglo said:
Could be wrong, but I think the problem with the type of air compressor you buy for $20 to fill bicycle tires and such is that it doesn't deliver a constant pressure. It cycles on and off as the pump works so water in the lines would just flow forward and back.
Click to expand...
They have almost the opposite issue: they don't have any way to set a desired pressure, so they just keep running until they can't push the air pressure any higher (which would be much higher than desired in the plumbing) or they burn out. Some care in watching pressure would be required, although it seems manageable to me.

The lack of a tank with these little compressors does mean pulsations, but very small ones which would not be relevant compared to the volume of the plumbing.
 
Brian B-P said:
They have almost the opposite issue: they don't have any way to set a desired pressure, so they just keep running until they can't push the air pressure any higher (which would be much higher than desired in the plumbing) or they burn out. Some care in watching pressure would be required, although it seems manageable to me.

The lack of a tank with these little compressors does mean pulsations, but very small ones which would not be relevant compared to the volume of the plumbing.
Click to expand...

I have to agree. I usually use a regulated air compressor set at 40 PSI to blow out my water lines, however I have used a 12V tire pump. The one I used has a gauge, but no regulator. If you attach it to the fresh water inlet, you have to watch the gauge to be sure you don't go over 50 PSI. While that probably won't happen with a faucet open, it could with everything closed. Definitely a two person job, one at the pump & one running around to the various valves & faucets. Much easier (and a one person job) with a regulated pump.
 
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