Are they ever really empty? I would think that any expansion due to freezing temps wouldn't be a problem.
Are they ever really empty? I would think that any expansion due to freezing temps wouldn't be a problem.
As long as it is completely empty - just one litre (or quart) would fill the valve area and potentially cause damage.
It wouldn't be in the tank; the potential problem is that if water sitting in the drain plumbing freezes it may burst that piping, since the expansion doesn't neatly flow along the piping. The first time I saw an Escape 17', I noted that the black tank dump valve was immediately below the floor, very directly connected to the tank (rather than down further where the black and grey waste pipes meet); if this is still true, then the valve and that short stub of piping might be okay with freezing... just a guess.
PGDriver
Senior Member
Once I winterized my trailer I would put a bucket under the drain and open both valves and let the excess antifreeze and water drain out. The next day I would spray silicone spray up towards the valves/O rings and that was it. Never had a problem.
Doug
Doug
jamie beers
Senior Member
So any remaining antifreeze is just in the traps then? And lube valves at same time. Sounds like a good approach.........
I just got back from winterizing Ten Forward and I'm here to say it's a PITA. I broke two fingernails... grrrrrrrr.
Can't wait until I can head south for the winter...
Can't wait until I can head south for the winter...
PGDriver
Senior Member
Yes thats right, traps full, lines and tanks empty and O rings lubed, all is good for the winter.
Doug
Just took my trailer out of storage.
The first thing I noticed was that the Faucet top wasn't there,???
It was laying on the bed beside the sink.
So after major investigation, it seems that I did not open the faucet valves last fall when putting the trailer away.
The water in the faucet froze, expanded, pushed up the faucet top, and broke the plastic hold down screw.
Checked all valves, connections etc. very carefully, did not find any other issues, and replaced the hold down screw.
put some water in the tank and ran the onboard pump.
Found the aerator also had cracked, replaced it as well.
Checked external water supply, all working.
No leaks
"Note to Self" open all valves next fall.
Hope this helps someone else.
Total Cost of repair $6.00 for hold down screw kit with O rings and an aerator.
The first thing I noticed was that the Faucet top wasn't there,???
It was laying on the bed beside the sink.
So after major investigation, it seems that I did not open the faucet valves last fall when putting the trailer away.
The water in the faucet froze, expanded, pushed up the faucet top, and broke the plastic hold down screw.
Checked all valves, connections etc. very carefully, did not find any other issues, and replaced the hold down screw.
put some water in the tank and ran the onboard pump.
Found the aerator also had cracked, replaced it as well.
Checked external water supply, all working.
No leaks
"Note to Self" open all valves next fall.
Hope this helps someone else.
Total Cost of repair $6.00 for hold down screw kit with O rings and an aerator.
Reviving an old thread
Anything new to report on winterizing 2017 17b? It has toilet shut off valve & winterizing t something (I forget). 1st time winterizing & video leaves much to the imagination. Thanks for help! Julie.
Anything new to report on winterizing 2017 17b? It has toilet shut off valve & winterizing t something (I forget). 1st time winterizing & video leaves much to the imagination. Thanks for help! Julie.
Do you have to push the button on the outside water fill? I did not do that when I winterized our trailer when we left it in Bellingham this year. I used the winterizing T valve method.
StarvingHyena
Senior Member
I just read this whole winterizing thread ... very informative! Thank you for re-running it as its time I start thinking about winterizing. I store my trailer a ways away from where I live and if not careful it would be possible for freezing temps to occur in my storage area before my next trailer visit.
Also, no one mentioned draining the exterior shower faucet. I forgot last winter and luckily dodged the bullet there as it was ok in the spring. This year I intend to get pink RV antifreeze to run out of it ... and then wash off the gel coat below to keep from staining.
Feels like winter is not very far away here in Juneau. Oh I hope Im wrong .... be OK with me to just skip it this year.
Tom
Also, no one mentioned draining the exterior shower faucet. I forgot last winter and luckily dodged the bullet there as it was ok in the spring. This year I intend to get pink RV antifreeze to run out of it ... and then wash off the gel coat below to keep from staining.
Feels like winter is not very far away here in Juneau. Oh I hope Im wrong .... be OK with me to just skip it this year.
Tom
Last edited:
cpaharley2008
Senior Member
Yes, you need to hook up your hose (provided with trailer) and open both hot and cold to winterize the o/s shower. Yes you still need to press the little button carefully inside the fresh water hookup to release liquid inside so that it doe not freeze. The E-Z winterizing is simple, you by pass the water heater ( remove and drain the heater plug outside) set the valve correct and insert the E-Z winterizing hose attached into a gallon of antifreeze. You then turn on your pump and go around to each faucet and open until antifreeze appears and then close (also the o/s shower). Pour some antifreeze into shower floor drain and you are done.
rubicon327
Senior Member
Great summary. The only difference for older trailers is the outside shower already has the hose attached so the step of hooking up the hose can be omitted.
Where in the winterizing instructions does it say to push the button in the water hookup?? I don't doubt you, I just don't see it anywhere.
Jim Bennett
Senior Member
I too have no idea what this is a S's have never done it.
rubicon327
Senior Member
I don't think Escape officially says it anywhere. I remember it from Scamp's winterizing video. I just do it for good measure. It is the only leg of the system that might have some water remaining after you pump the antifreeze in. There will be some pressure so just stand to the side or have a towel over the valve if you press it. With dilution and room for some expansion it is likely to never be an issue either way.
IF you use the city water connection to pump anti-freeze through the lines, wouldn't the valve end up filled with anti-freeze instead of water? Or maybe I'm confused... need more coffee! 
rubicon327
Senior Member
IF you use the city water connection to pump anti-freeze through the lines, wouldn't the valve end up filled with anti-freeze instead of water? Or maybe I'm confused... need more coffee!
Correct. My comment (and Jim's) assumes that someone is using the winterizing t-valve and on board pump to fill the system with antifreeze. In this case it is pushing against the small amount of water left in that small leg of the system piping. For the few that are using a hand pump at the city water inlet connection to pump in antifreeze this minor detail is a non-issue.
Whew. THANKS!
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