WINTERIZING: updated Oct. 29, 2013

There shouldn't be any water condensed in the compressor tank, if the owner has read the manual. Which is the problem with a compressor. It has it's own maintenance regimen.
 
A newbie here’ve to winterization. Did the winterizing t valve technique & worked out well. Was surprised that anode had so much deterioration since new in February. Think I’ve got this covered! Had to buy 1 1/16 inch whatever as well as extender. Glad to find someone in homedepot to help. Thanks to all who contributed to how to winterize. U guys rock!
 
Sorry if this is a repeat question, but..

Is using 2017 water pump sufficient to replace the process of "blowing out with air compressor" ?
 
LJY said:
Sorry if this is a repeat question, but..

Is using 2017 water pump sufficient to replace the process of "blowing out with air compressor" ?
Click to expand...

No, unless you are referring to the "E-Z-winterizing" which uses your pump?
 
cpaharley2008 said:
No, unless you are referring to the "E-Z-winterizing" which uses your pump?
Click to expand...

Or if you do not have the optional EZ, then you can add enough antifreeze into the freshwater tank - so there is enough for the pump to push it through all your lines. It just takes quite a bit more antifreeze that way and some folks are pretty paranoid about antifreeze in the fresh water tank. ;)

Also, there is the hand pump method that is mentioned earlier in this thread. Several methods all can produce the necessary outcome which is getting all the water out of the system,
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys. I was just wondering if the water pump also pumped the water from the city water lines and may be powerful enough to replace the air compressor
 
LJY, the city water line is just a short pipe between the outside hookup and then joins in downstream of the water pump. I believe that pushing in on the little check valve just inside the city water connection (you have to remove the washer/screen to see it) allows the water to drain out of that tube.

As far as replacing the compressor - the built in water pump can only pump liquids so it is not actually a replacement for the air compressor. The air compressor forces air under pressure to push out the water, the water pump pushes antifreeze thru the lines to push out the water. Make sense?
 
Last edited:
Aside from water and antifreeze, what vents and holes need to be covered with wire mesh etc, so mice can't get in?

I've done the hot water vent, fridge panel outside and hot water tank control area. We do NOT have A/C.

This trailer is new to me and before I get the ladder out, I wouldn't mind know which vents will seal completely if closed from inside and which will still need some rodent protection.
 
Last edited:
Do you have foam under the trailer? The urethane foam should seal most penetrations. I would inspect the underside of the trailer for any potential openings that would attract mice.

On the AC unit, We did have a wasp nest inside the AC unit on the squirrel cage fan. Depending on your environment, that is another location to be of concern.
 
MVA said:
Do you have foam under the trailer? The urethane foam should seal most penetrations. I would inspect the underside of the trailer for any potential openings that would attract mice.

On the AC unit, We did have a wasp nest inside the AC unit on the squirrel cage fan. Depending on your environment, that is another location to be of concern.
Click to expand...
No foam. There doesn't appear to be many areas under that will be an issue.

I haven't decided to cover or not cover yet. If I can seal off all the roof vents, which I can, I may cover to protect against UV rays.
 
Ah, these old threads bring back a bit of nostalgia seeing names of forum members sadly no longer with us.

I've never found any opening that could remotely let in a mouse on the underside of the trailer. If you have a push-in cord and it's pulled out then maybe a bit of steel wool would be a good idea. I don't do anything to mine and have never had a mouse in the trailer.

Ron
 
Thanks Ron. I'm from BC. I was.born in Holberg and spent most of my childhood summers in Winfield where my extended family was. We even have a street named after us there.

I figured bumping a zombie thread was better than starting a new one.

As you said, I see nothing on the underside for mice to get in. Our cord is detachable.

My only real concern at this point is with the cover, mice can get on the roof from what I hear.

I'll grab a ladder next week and have a look up there and put some preventive wire mesh in a few areas if I see fit.

I'm new here but hope but am loving the help and suggestions from everyone.
 
Last edited:
BravoDeltaRomeo said:
My only real concern at this point is with the cover, mice can get on the roof from what I hear.

I'll grab a ladder next week and have a look up there and put some preventive wire mesh in a few areas if I see fit.
Click to expand...

I don't have an A/C and with my roof vents closed I don't see any openings for mice. The plastic fridge vent on the roof looks like it might be able to let in mice but there is wire mesh under it.

Even if mice did get into the fridge chase they wouldn't have a path into the interior. Of course you wouldn't want mice to build a nest on the rear of the fridge so maybe some mesh on the lower fridge vent might be a good idea.

Ron
 

Attachments

  • IMGP0017_resize.jpg
    IMGP0017_resize.jpg
    184.4 KB · Views: 12
I put some wire mesh over the furnace exhaust on the driver's side of our 5.0TA. It gets hot so I attached it with stainless steel zip ties. I was careful to tuck in all the sharp bits so it didn't tear our cover.
 
BravoDeltaRomeo said:
Aside from water and antifreeze, what vents and holes need to be covered with wire mesh etc, so mice can't get in?
Click to expand...

I have never plugged a hole and like Ron have had no mice in either of my Escapes. There just is not a hole big enough into the interior.

My biggest entry issue is the main door. My brother keeps getting in and taking my beer. Good thing I know his lock combo too, and there is a slight off chance I have done the same. ;D
 
So I’m about to store our trailer for the winter. Taking it to the local fairgrounds, it’ll be stored inside but no heat. Should I turn off the battery disconnect and remove the 2 6v batteries?
I’d keep them in my garage and trickle charge them from time to time over the next 4 months.
Anything need to be done to the solar or inverter before taking it in for the winter?
Thanks,
Larry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom