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Old 10-17-2013, 10:33 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by medora66 View Post
Eric, I checked again today. No sag on ours, and no insulation gaps as far as I can tell (though I can only stand to be in the thing for a few minutes at a time given the LP alarm -- argh!)
Thanks for checking E. Since yours is a newer model and Reace is constantly making improvements - maybe these are areas he has already improved.
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:46 PM   #32
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As Glenn and Rosemary mentioned, there is a slight gap in the liner/insulation inside each cabinet. For folks who camp in warmer temps any of those gaps are pretty much meaningless and probably not worth doing anything about. Since we camp most often when nighttime temps are in the mid 30s to 40s, those gaps are worth closing up in my opinion. No matter how well we vent the trailer to get out excess humidity, in low outside temps, moisture is going to condense when the warm interior air hits cold surfaces. (That is why homes in cold climates need a vapor barrier on the inside.) Were the gap is large enough, like in the rear, I am going to glue in reflectix, where it is less that 1/4" I am going to caulk or may try a vapor barrier tape.

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Just returned from the NOG in Nehalem Oregon - here's what happened to us:

The first night out on the way down from the Island we spent in Sequim on the Olympic Peninsula (which granted, is a very humid area at the best of times.) Were really tired and neglected to open the vent or turn on the fan, which we have always done before. That's one mistake we'll never make again We woke up to sopping wet liner in every upper cabinet and underneath on all the uncovered reflectix. The gaps in every cabinet liner where you can feel the actual fiberglass shell were WET - not damp - completely saturated. Above the windows under the valences were dripping as well. Reminder that our 2102 19' has the extra insulation and thermopane windows

We pulled everything out from the cabinets, mopped up as best we could and traveled the rest of the way to Oregon with wet stuff strewn everywhere. (Actually did two showings with it in that condition.)

Windows wide, Maxx fan on exhaust, furnace and little electric heater fan blasting dried things up nicely. Once things were dried out we kept the Maxx fan going constantly with windows cracked open all the time. Even though it rained furiously some of the time while camped and we were inside a lot, we did not have any more issues.

Stopped at the same place in Sequim on our way home last night and, with the fan on and windows cracked open, woke up dry.

Lesson majorly learned - from now on we will ALWAYS have the fan on and windows cracked open - don't ever want to face that potential nightmare again!
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:51 PM   #33
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merging these two threads
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:57 PM   #34
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Glenn & Rosemary, sounds like your Escape is so tight there was no way for any moisture to escape. I'm glad you found a workable solution.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:11 PM   #35
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merging these two threads
What two threads?
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:30 PM   #36
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Glenn & Rosemary, sounds like your Escape is so tight there was no way for any moisture to escape. I'm glad you found a workable solution.
Donna you nailed the quandary of our wonderful tight little trailers (and all new super insulated homes too) The tighter we make any human habitat, the more we keep in the moisture we make thru exhalation and cooking.

We worked with an expert energy auditor to make our 1970's home into an Energy Star level home. We now have amazingly small heating and AC bills, but in the process we also learned that as we made the place tighter and tighter, seemingly small moisture problems became much bigger problems. Let's just say I learned how to make my own interior weather systems....

As Glenn B said earlier, cheap stick built trailers don't have these moisture problems since most of them leak plenty of air in and out to take excess moisture out with it. This thread is a great resource for anyone who loves to camp in cool and cold temps.
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:20 PM   #37
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On 10/4/13 I suggested you should run your MaxFan all the time to reduce moisture, that was the second post on this thread. Even when towing you should run the fan.
Now you understand why I told you about running the fan.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:57 AM   #38
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Chuck, I think that must depend on your climate. Pretty much the only reason I have ever run my Maax fan is to cool the trailer in hot weather. I find the regular ceiling vent just cracked a bit, with the the furnace running in colder temps, keeps the condensation down.

No need to run it anyway when nobody is in it, as there is no condensation produced.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
Chuck, I think that must depend on your climate. Pretty much the only reason I have ever run my Maax fan is to cool the trailer in hot weather. I find the regular ceiling vent just cracked a bit, with the the furnace running in colder temps, keeps the condensation down.

No need to run it anyway when nobody is in it, as there is no condensation produced.
Same for us Jim - with at least one window partially open, the MaxxFan open at bit
and either our portable electric heater or the furnace on we stay quite comfortably dry. Usually there is a bit of moisture on the aluminum window frames in the morning (and for now until I get it insulated on the bare fiberglass showing in the cabinet) that is easily wiped off.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:02 AM   #40
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Thoer,

When you say 'insulated on the bare fiberglass in the cabinet' do you mean adding both insulation and liner or just the liner.
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