Required change to the winterization instructions? - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-14-2017, 03:57 PM   #21
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Just got off the phone with Escape, Jeff Busch, parts manager called me back in response to my email. The brass valve is a one way valve to prevent higher pressure escaping the hot water tank and damaging the pump. When you open the water heater pressure valve and remove the anode, any water in that line will siphon out into the water heater, it is one way only to prevent backwash and pressure into the water system from the water heater. So in reality there is no change to the winterization, the water heater anode removal takes care of this valve and any residual liquid left.
I remain unconvinced. I called Jeff to talk about this and it was clear to me that he didn't really understand the problem that I was raising. His viewpoint was that water would flow through the one way valve into the water heater since that's the direction it was designed to allow water to flow. I asked him if that valve required pressure to open up, and he didn't know the answer. I am pretty sure that if that valve requires pressure to open, then there will be water in that pipe as a consequence. If you stuck your finger in that opening and applied pressure then water couldn't flow out either, even if the water heater was empty.

The city water valve, which also a directional valve, certainly does require pressure to open up. You can see this by removing the filter and pressing on the plastic button that releases the pressure. Even after relieving pressure initially, it still takes a little bit of force to press the spring in that device and open the valve.

Jeff agreed that he didn't fully understand my concerns, and said that he'd ask Reace to have a look at this thread.

On the plus side, Jeff told me that they haven't received any complaints regarding leaking at that part. I could be convinced that this is not a problem in practice as the valve could be opened during the freezing process as I described above. I wouldn't personally rely on that though as it may not apply in all situations. I would also point out that they only started adding this valve recently, so relatively few trailers have gone though one winter, and none have gone through two.
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
That is what I would do. Just cycle the valve quickly and you will push just a small amount of antifreeze through the piping leg and into the water heater. No big deal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulk View Post
Supposedly, propylene glycol is 4.5 times more corrosive than water, whatever that means. Perhaps a little isn't too bad though. I'd flush the water heater afterwards in future years.
I think it would take more than the tiny bit of antifreeze I mentioned here to cause a problem, but I do see that Suburban prefers a water heater that is bypassed, drained and free of antifreeze. The antifreeze attacks the anode rod. If you do have antifreeze in the water heater they suggest removing the anode rod and replacing with a drain plug.
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