Topping up the battery - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 06-26-2016, 01:17 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
This is a photo of the batteries( 2) in the rear dinette of the 21' .
Good illustration.

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Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
The hold down is similar to what is used in automobiles.
Yes, except that in a car the hold-down bar would hold the battery not just the lid; if the battery is in a box with a lid (as there usually is now), the lid has its own clips or screws. This idea of sitting the batteries loose in a box and putting a bar or strap over the lid is a travel trailer thing, not done in motor vehicles.
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:50 AM   #22
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The factory sealed dual 6 volt vented box in my 21 was done this way, it had foam around the perimeter top which when strapped down would compress.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:37 AM   #23
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It is important to check the battery with a hydrometer to confirm your charge level, how easy are the Flow-rite caps to remove?
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Old 06-26-2016, 01:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Good illustration.


Yes, except that in a car the hold-down bar would hold the battery not just the lid; if the battery is in a box with a lid (as there usually is now), the lid has its own clips or screws. This idea of sitting the batteries loose in a box and putting a bar or strap over the lid is a travel trailer thing, not done in motor vehicles.
Yes, I was trying to describe how the lid is held down , But you bring up a good point. Since the batteries are not secured themselves and being in the bounciest part of the trailer, I wonder if they have ever bounced into the lid. I've seen nothing to indicate any movement though ?
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:31 PM   #25
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Since the batteries are not secured themselves and being in the bounciest part of the trailer, I wonder if they have ever bounced into the lid. I've seen nothing to indicate any movement though ?
It takes a significant jolt (downward acceleration greater than one G) to get a rigid object to leave the floor, and even if the batteries do they would tend to slam back down in the same place, due to the attached cables. High enough to hit the lid would be disturbing, and my guess it that it would only happen in a collision... when they become lead-filled plastic-cased wrecking balls.
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:16 PM   #26
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There's not a heck of a lot of clearance between the top of the batteries and the top of the box. If they were to jolt upwards, they aren't going far at all, like some fraction or an inch.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:51 PM   #27
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I recently installed the pro fill system on my trailer. Worth every penny:
https://www.amazon.com/Flow-Rite-RV2...atering+system
I got the same unit from Amazon for my dual 6V series in my 2016 21. Also added this unit to further simplify topping up
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both items are made by Flow-Rite and connect easily. Batteries only took about 1/2-1 oz of distilled water since trailer is new in July. Filling will only take a few minutes now and is a clean, simple operation.

When winterizing for the first time ever I learned something. When you are on shore power the dual hot water heater will be powered depending on the setting of the a/c toggle switch conveniently hidden behind the plumbing on the water heater. I had the propane heater switch off inside but unknown to me the a/c toggle was on. When I removed the anodizing rod for draining the heater the rod shot out like a rocket on the last few threads. Kinda spooked me.

I have read several other threads on the power disconnect switch (confusing terminology). On or up position means batteries are not disconnected, right? My understanding is with the trailer (solar panels) covered for the winter and connected to shore power (20 amp circuit) it is fine to have the disconnect switch in the up position so that shore power keeps the batteries charged. No need to worry about slow discharge in the situation. Am I understanding this correctly?
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:42 PM   #28
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I use the old fashioned type I used 50 years ago while working in a garage....still works. On edit, this will only work on the 19 batteries in the front box. In the 21, your space is limited.
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:45 PM   #29
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Re: the switch. If in the off mode, only the solar is charging the batteries, it needs to be in the on mode for the converter to charge the system
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Old 12-03-2016, 11:10 AM   #30
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Switch position for storage

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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Re: the switch. If in the off mode, only the solar is charging the batteries, it needs to be in the on mode for the converter to charge the system
With the Casita, I disconnected the battery when the trailer was in storage and connected to shore power; then I charged the battery for one day a month. With the Escape should I turn the switch to the OFF position while in storage and back to ON for the one day a month battery charge? (assuming the solar panel is covered.) If the solar panel is exposed while the trailer is in storage, should the battery be disconnected completely or left to charge by the solar panel?
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