"The Trailer" is home!

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

It's getting returned to Lowe's as it's not doing what I thought it would do. Since the cabinet door opens up, it's very tricky to get stuff out of the sliding drawer. If the door opened to the side, it'd be lots easier. So, if you're thinking of something like this and your trailer isn't built yet (yeah, Stephen, thinking of you here), you might want to consider the door opening to the side.

I don't know why ETI has it open upwards. I didn't give it much thought even when I knew it did that. Either way it opens, it's still gonna stick out into the walkway. And with it opening upwards it's at perfect eye level for bonking oneself in the face. Would be harder to do if it opens to the side. However, I probably won't get it redone as I don't want a bunch of holes showing. But, we'll see how many times I take out my eye before that thought gets shifted around.

Note the drawer insert isn't attached, but it did fit very nicely in there. Just the right width and length to clear the door opening as well as the electrical outlet and cord in the back. It's too long to fit in the cabinet under the stovetop - rats, as that was my other option.

I'm probably not going to put in any sliding drawer due to the way the door opens.

Yeah, I can see the one you have is no good for the space. Too tall. Looks to be maybe 6 inches tall? The one I'm looking at is only about 2.5 inches tall so there would be more clearance to get things out. What is the width of the drawer insert you have?

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by stephen99

Yeah, I can see the one you have is no good for the space. Too tall. Looks to be maybe 6 inches tall? The one I'm looking at is only about 2.5 inches tall so there would be more clearance to get things out. What is the width of the drawer insert you have?

Dirk said he could cut off some of the side/front pieces, but I think it'll still be a problem. I was trying to get those items out by lifting straight up and there just wasn't the clearance room. So, the side pieces didn't make a difference. Anything in the back would be a PITA to get out with stuff in the front.

17 and one half inches

As someone else posted, I think I'll just use that cupboard for a while and see what exactly happens when I do use it.

But, yeah Stephen, give some thought to the door opening to the side, esp after looking at my photos. I wish I had!

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by float5

It would be great if our Escape were at our house instead of an hour away. No, not that dedicated, to drive in the snow and ice to even get to the trailer much less to pull it out of there. Canceled our trip we had planned with the trailer today. Just staying around here admiring Charlie's drawer toppers!

Hey Cathy, just had to tease ya! And I hear ya on the weather. Even with the trailer a few feet (almost!) from the front door, I didn't go out there for several days. Gasp! Just too darn cold for me to zip back and forth. And we're not even in a super deep freeze, but it's colder than I like.

But the water was still running when I turned the tap on earlier today, so those heat pads and heat tape were working (knock on wood!).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

I don't know why ETI has it open upwards. I didn't give it much thought even when I knew it did that. Either way it opens, it's still gonna stick out into the walkway. And with it opening upwards it's at perfect eye level for bonking oneself in the face. Would be harder to do if it opens to the side.

It appears that the height of the door is less than the width. That means that with hinges on a long/horizontal side (top or bottom) it sticks out by the height of the door, which is less than the width of the door (the amount it would stick out if hinged on a short/vertical side). Of course it wouldn't be hinged on the bottom (swinging down) in the stock form, because for those not using a drawer or slide in that cabinet, the door would be much more in the way than swinging up.

The sensible thing to do if changing the hinges to go with a drawer would probably be to move them to the bottom, and to provide a positive catch or closers (so it doesn't fall open).

Yes, door edges are much more of a hazard than door faces, so top-hinged doors are usually used only very near the ceiling.

[richardr]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

But the water was still running when I turned the tap on earlier today, so those heat pads and heat tape were working (knock on wood!).

I'm interested in learning more about your heat tape. I expect it is around the discharge piping of the gray and black water tanks. What brand and model? How much did you use? How many watts per foot? Is it 12 volt?

I asked ETI if they would install heat tape if I supplied it. They said that they no longer offer that service.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The sensible thing to do if changing the hinges to go with a drawer would probably be to move them to the bottom, and to provide a positive catch or closers (so it doesn't fall open)..

Another alternative - no hinges: mount the door as a drawer front instead.

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by richardr

I'm interested in learning more about your heat tape. I expect it is around the discharge piping of the gray and black water tanks. What brand and model? How much did you use? How many watts per foot? Is it 12 volt?

I asked ETI if they would install heat tape if I supplied it. They said that they no longer offer that service.

Yeah, ETI said a short while ago they won't offer it any longer. Someone mentioned that before ours was completed, so I was freaking out they wouldn't install it, after I had already supplied 50 feet of that stuff. But they did. Although they had to email me about installation as it didn't come with much in the way of guidance and the company didn't have much on their site. Reace even called me about it - yeah, kind of clueless myself, but I told him the company was willing to talk him through if need be and gave him their toll free number. I had called the company after getting his email and they said to look on YouTube (Reace said that wasn't much help to him). He did get it installed. He said there was someone else a few trailers ahead of us that was also getting the heat tape installed. I could not tell you the ins and outs of the installation though. We're probably the last two trailers to get it.

This is what we got:

12 Volt Heat Cable at OEMHeaters.com

I also got the termination kit but I don't know if they used it. I did get some of the tape back but I never measured exactly how much. Reace thought he'd need 50' for the 21 and wrapping all exposed pipes. I think I got back about 2-3', which is fine. Better than not having enough and at least it wasn't 15' back! I'm not sure where I flung it, but I can root around for it if you want to know exactly how much I got back.

The switch for that and the heat pads is under the driver's side seat of the dinette. I don't know if it would be in the same place in another size trailer.

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Yes, door edges are much more of a hazard than door faces, so top-hinged doors are usually used only very near the ceiling.

Well, that's what I thought, so I was rather surprised it had that kind of opening since it wasn't at the very top. Oh well, Dirk will figure something out - he's really good at stuff like that.

[float5]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

Hey Cathy, just had to tease ya! And I hear ya on the weather. Even with the trailer a few feet (almost!) from the front door, I didn't go out there for several days. Gasp! Just too darn cold for me to zip back and forth. And we're not even in a super deep freeze, but it's colder than I like.

But the water was still running when I turned the tap on earlier today, so those heat pads and heat tape were working (knock on wood!).

You do not have a 30-amp hook-up at your house, do you? I am wondering how much of a difference it makes for charging batteries or using items in the trailer such as your heat pads.

Wonder how many people here are hooked up at home to 110.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by float5

You do not have a 30-amp hook-up at your house, do you? I am wondering how much of a difference it makes for charging batteries or using items in the trailer such as your heat pads.

Wonder how many people here are hooked up at home to 110.

Hi Cathy . I only have 20 amp from garage . Would like a dedicated 30 amp . Just too many other things in the way . I just know never to use ac at home . Pat

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Another alternative - no hinges: mount the door as a drawer front instead.

Another alternative would be a tambour door. You would lose a bit of usable width due to the track but the door would be completely out of the way.

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by float5

You do not have a 30-amp hook-up at your house, do you? I am wondering how much of a difference it makes for charging batteries or using items in the trailer such as your heat pads.

ETI gave me a 30 to 15 amp converter plug and that's what I'm using, which is plugged into a 20 amp outlet. Dirk wants to eventually hook up a separate pole for The Trailer to plug in to.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by stephen99

Another alternative would be a tambour door. You would lose a bit of usable width due to the track but the door would be completely out of the way.

I was thinking the same thing following posts. You would lose near 2" on each side, and about 3" on the top.

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

ETI gave me a 30 to 15 amp converter plug and that's what I'm using, which is plugged into a 20 amp outlet. Dirk wants to eventually hook up a separate pole for The Trailer to plug in to.

For what it's worth be careful using a 15 amp adaptor and extension cord plugged into a 20 amp circuit when running heat pads, heat tape, and heaters. They should only be used for small amp draw items. Your taking a risk of overloading the cord and connectors. Changing the breaker to 15 amp until you can do something more permanent would help protect them.

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I was thinking the same thing following posts. You would lose near 2" on each side, and about 3" on the top.

I feel a mod coming on.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by stephen99

I feel a mod coming on.

Or maybe 10.

Or probably more.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

For what it's worth be careful using a 15 amp adaptor and extension cord plugged into a 20 amp circuit when running heat pads, heat tape, and heaters. They should only be used for small amp draw items. Your taking a risk of overloading the cord and connectors. Changing the breaker to 15 amp until you can do something more permanent would help protect them.

There is no worry, as all the circuits in the trailer are protected at 15A, other than for the A/C of course.

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

There is no worry, as all the circuits in the trailer are protected at 15A, other than for the A/C of course.

The trailer main is 30 amp so the 30 to 15 amp connector could overheat along with a light duty extension cord running to the house.

[steve dunham]

The only thing that could be damaged by plugging a 15 amp extension cord into a 20 amp circuit / receptacle to power your trailer is the extension cord or the 15 amp to 30 amp adaptor. . The house receptacle is fed with #12 / 20 amp wire and is fused accordingly .The service cord of your trailer is #10 /30 amp wire and the circuits in the trailer have individual overcurrent protection to protect the trailer

The conductors in a 14/3 extension cord will get warm but will not burn up if subject to a 20 amp load , the cord caps are a different story. If the code considered plugging a 15 amp extension cord into a receptacle fed by a 20 amp circuit a hazard they would design the 15 amp cord cap so it would not fit in the 20 amp receptacle. Try plugging a 20 amp male cord cap into a 15 amp receptacle, it won't fit.
One still needs to take into account the voltage drop across the extension cord but the only piece of equipment in your trailer that is really affected by low voltage is the A/C
Wiring normally overheats / burns up at a splice or termination point , the wires / conductors themselves seldom burn up in the middle of a run.

[Kountrykamper]

Exactly what I was saying. You can overheat the 30 to 15 amp adaptor on the end of the trailer cord. It is protected by a 30 amp breaker on the trailer side and a 20 amp breaker on the house side. Adding into account the voltage drop of the extension cord and you could have a problem.