Baffle for 4.3 and 6.7 fridges - Page 7 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-18-2014, 09:37 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
When I do my baffle I plan to use tapered PolyISO insulation board that is designed for commercial roofs. 3.5" of that stuff has R value over 20. I figure that a solid (tapered to fit the curved wall area) baffle made from PolyISO board of the same overall shape proposed by Reace will keep the back of the refrigerator much cooler and result in better overall cooling performance.
I like this idea. Rigid insulation is often foil-faced; that seems like a good idea for the refrigerator side.

I see that the 120V outlet gets buried behind the baffle, which seems like a feature to be avoided. Solid foam could have clearance for the outlet and cord carved out of it.
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:43 PM   #62
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Well, you have to get lucky sometimes. Knowing now what the baffle looks like I opened the exterior hatch and looked inside. Imagine my surprise to find that I have the baffle. So mine must have been one of the first this Spring to have one installed by ETI.

At some point I'll probably pull the fridge anyway because I think insulating the space between the baffle and the fg skin is worth doing.

On mine the bottom baffle is above the 110 volt receptacle and it is still accessible.

Ron
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:52 PM   #63
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Ron, do have the screw on cover on the bottom of the baffle as shown is Reace's picture? If show you may be able to open it up and stuff it upward with fiberglass insulation...may save a lot of work and give you good results?
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Old 07-18-2014, 11:09 PM   #64
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Our 19 was new in July 2013. When we had problems in 100 degree weather in Nebraska, Reace had me remove a plywood baffle that was originally placed during construction. I simply opened the outside access door and reached up and worked it loose. It made little if any difference. Now we're talking about putting in another baffle. I'm confused.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:33 AM   #65
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The bottom of my baffle looks like it was air nailered on but I'll take a closer look.

I wouldn't mind pulling out the fridge anyway because now, after using the trailer, and knowing which is the "head end" of the bed I could add some blocking to the wall panel as well as insulate those panels also. I'd also like to look around the area and see if there's any opportunity to add a "cubby hole" storage area for the bathroom.

Oh, and I discovered that I have a fan that I didn't know I had I thought it was an option and was going to add one myself. Now all I have to do is track down all the comments that have been made about them and sensors etc. I didn't read previous comments about the factory installed fans because I didn't know I had one.

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Old 07-19-2014, 12:40 AM   #66
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Ron, mine is a 4.3 and it has 2 fans screwed to the back of the refer under the top coils (stock setup, not optional). They were tied to a fixed thermostat clipped to one of the top coil tubes. It is supposed to go closed and turn on the fans when the coil temp reached whatever temp. I removed it and wired the fans to a switch inside the trailer.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:45 AM   #67
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R It is supposed to go closed and turn on the fans when the coil temp reached whatever temp. I removed it and wired the fans to switch inside the trailer.
Thanks, I'll check it again when the lights better. I'd also rather have a manual control so that'll be in the cards also.

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Old 07-19-2014, 08:07 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
Ron, mine is a 4.3 and it has 2 fans screwed to the back of the refer under the top coils (stock setup, not optional). They were tied to a fixed thermostat clipped to one of the top coil tubes. It is supposed to go closed and turn on the fans when the coil temp reached whatever temp. I removed it and wired the fans to a switch inside the trailer.
Steve

Our 4.3 only has 1 fan on the bottom (Stock setup from Dometic). I have never seen it run. I have followed the wire from the fan trying to find the thermostat but the wire appears to go into the control module. I have felt around on the condenser fins but can't find the thermostat. Where was yours mounted?

This is another reason I will probably make this a winter project because I don't want to have to rush it and want to get the fan rewired so I can control it and add more if needed. I will probably bench run the fridge some to make sure it is doing what I want before I reinstall it.
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:23 AM   #69
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Our 19 was new in July 2013. When we had problems in 100 degree weather in Nebraska, Reace had me remove a plywood baffle that was originally placed during construction. I simply opened the outside access door and reached up and worked it loose. It made little if any difference. Now we're talking about putting in another baffle. I'm confused.
I had that same talk with Reace last summer. We were camped on a really hot day and I called to talk with him about the fridge. He was even then trying to make it work better and had experimented some with baffles. The one he told us to remove was nothing more than a hunk of plywood to deflect the air over toward the back of the fridge. But of course right above it is that large volume of stagnant air that's contributing to poor performance. So in our case, removing it might have helped a tiny bit by at least not restricting the upward flow of cooling air.

The new baffles are entirely different and do direct air closer to the cooling fins, and probably help develop a little chimney effect. This also gets us in compliance with the installation instructions from Dometic. When I took ours to a local RV shop, their first inclination was to not work on it as a warranty job because of all the clearance between the fridge and the outer wall.

I'm looking forward to doing this mod. It's going to take some effort, but I think it's worth the trouble and eliminates a huge uncertainty in making these things work as well as they can.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:07 AM   #70
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Well with a extendable mirror and some good light I found the fan thermostat clipped to the top of the condenser. Not able to reach it so just another reason to pull the fridge. The mod would force the air to be directed over it instead of going around it.
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