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Old 07-26-2015, 03:40 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ethanallen2 View Post
We are seniors considering a downsize from a 27ft travel trailer w living rm slide. We feel we can do with less space. TT weight distribution bars/chains are heavy part of hitching up and unhitching... our thinking is the 5.0TA would eliminate the heavy lifting.
I agree. The fifth-wheel setup eliminates the weight distributing hitch that many feel they need with conventional trailers, it eliminates dealing with safety chains, and it eliminates any need to bend down to the hitch area... although you do need to reach into the truck bed area to plug in the electrical cable and hook up the breakaway cable.

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Does the 5.0TA have electric legs?
Yes, the landing gear legs are electric. They're not the usual style used on larger fifth-wheels - they're tongue jacks - but as far as using them in concerned they're straightforward independently controlled electric jacks.
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Old 07-26-2015, 04:02 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by escape artist View Post
The rear stabilizers are manual crank... but can be done with a cordless drill.
I think Escape has used two different models of stabilizing jacks in the back, both from BAL. If the trailer has the C-Jack, these can have motors added, so one would not even need to bend down to use a drill on them. I don't think there's a motor available for the BAL Telescoping Jack.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:54 PM   #13
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Ethan I know you were asking about the fifth wheel, but as a counterpoint the escape 21 with no weight distribution hitch and electric tongue jack would be a compelling alternative. Floorplan preference depending.

Your full size pickup with a relatively light fgrv will be a great combination. I think Jim quotes his 21 at 4300lb fully loaded for camping.
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:12 PM   #14
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You do have to reach out into the middle of the truck bed to latch the hitch handle latch. The breakaway switch gets clipped to whatever is handy, like a tie down, and the umbilical cord goes in the 7 pin connector either on or under the bumper. I had a second connection put in the truck bed. Might be prudent to wait on such till you have the trailer, I should have had mine more to the front instead of under the loft overhang to save playing Twister.

The hitch itself is heavy if you decide you want to remove it to use the truck bed for other things, In the hundred pound range. The Anderson not so much, but I've had no experience with a gooseneck.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:49 AM   #15
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You do have to reach out into the middle of the truck bed to latch the hitch handle latch.
Hmmm... or get a hitch with a longer handle? These things can be quite long, so you don't need to reach anywhere near the hitch head.

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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
The hitch itself is heavy if you decide you want to remove it to use the truck bed for other things, In the hundred pound range. The Anderson not so much, but I've had no experience with a gooseneck.
Good point Bob - this is an issue with fifth-wheels. On the other hand, it only has to be done once per trip (if that), rather than at every stop.

A ball on the floor of the truck bed (sometimes confusingly called a "gooseneck" hitch setup) can fix the heavy-hitch issue (with a conversion of the Escape pinbox to an extension and a coupler for a ball), but it then means reaching way into the truck box, and hooking up chains, so I don't think it achieves the easy-to-hitch vision that started this part of the discussion.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:36 AM   #16
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Doesn't the hitch for a fifth wheel just stay in the truck bed ? I know I couldn't remove it. With my goose neck I have to climb into the truck bed to hitch up do you need to do that with a 5th wheel?
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:29 AM   #17
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Doesn't the hitch for a fifth wheel just stay in the truck bed ? I know I couldn't remove it. With my goose neck I have to climb into the truck bed to hitch up do you need to do that with a 5th wheel?

Depends on the hitch design. Some are permanent bolt on, and others allow you to remove the upper part and just leave the mounting rails by pulling the rail pins.

A gooseneck reaches further down so you can't reach it. Most people with a medium/regular sized truck can hook/unhook a 5er without getting into the bed.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:25 AM   #18
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Brian, it's not the hitch arm that's harder to reach, it's a latch pin or some such that keep the arm in the closed position. On the Reese 15k hitch they say to use a padlock, on my B&W there is a locking pin.



Fox Hunt, you certainly do not have to remove the hitch, but you can. I do when I go fishing locally, haul wood or loam, that sort of thing. Won't be too many years before it's no longer an option. Suppose if I had a garage a hoist could be rigged, but I don't.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:00 AM   #19
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Thanks!
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:10 AM   #20
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Brian, it's not the hitch arm that's harder to reach, it's a latch pin or some such that keep the arm in the closed position. On the Reese 15k hitch they say to use a padlock, on my B&W there is a locking pin.

Thanks Bob. Just bad design then...
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