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Old 09-04-2016, 07:21 AM   #1
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We're finally using our furnace in our 2015 Escape 19. If I turn it on manually (set the thermostat higher than the inside temperature), it works fine -- starts the blower, ignites the burner, blows hot air, eventually shuts off the burner, runs the blower for another minute, and shuts down.

BUT -- if I set the thermostat for the night, it will wake me up in the night with the igniter clicking repeatedly, as many as 30-40 times. Typically after clicking a dozen times, it will turn on the blower, and it will continue clicking, eventually lighting the burner, blowing hot air, and shutting down. Sometimes the burner doesn't light, and blows a couple of minutes of cold air before shutting down.

Propane is fine - hot water and stove working great. Battery is fine. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:57 AM   #2
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Dave, check for debris in the furnace by removing the two screws for the burn chamber cover. Ours was filled with black flakes after only one or two short uses. Once we cleaned it out, the furnace has worked flawlessly ever since.

My assumption is there's a lot of carbon build up that occurs when you're breaking in a new furnace, but it doesn't build up as quickly after its been run for awhile.

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Old 09-04-2016, 09:54 AM   #3
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I would second Roberts suggestion. On both our Scamp and Escape, we had those black flakes after initial uses in both the furnace and water heater. My working theory has been that there is oil left on the steel used in the combustion chambers and burning it off leaves the residue. Our Escape's water heater began to shut itself off after running for a very short time. After using my air compressor to blow the flakes out of the combustion chamber and it started working perfectly again.
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:55 AM   #4
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Robert how easy is it/how does one get to the burn chamber on the furnace. Must admit I've never looked at it. Have done the water heater.
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Dave, check for debris in the furnace by removing the two screws for the burn chamber cover. Ours was filled with black flakes after only one or two short uses. Once we cleaned it out, the furnace has worked flawlessly ever since.
My assumption is there's a lot of carbon build up that occurs when you're breaking in a new furnace, but it doesn't build up as quickly after its been run for awhile.
Are you referring to the water heater or refer ? The furnace appears to have an enclosed combustion chamber.
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:55 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by PGDriver View Post
Robert how easy is it/how does one get to the burn chamber.
Cheers
Doug
I'm using the wrong terms Doug. On the water heater it's the chamber cover, on the furnace it's the exhaust/vent.

[QUOTE=Jubal;159088]
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Are you referring to the water heater or refer ? The furnace appears to have an enclosed combustion chamber.
Yeah, I wasn't clear. In any case, blowing out the exhaust/vent worked for the furnace, and blowing out the chamber on the water heater worked too.


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Old 09-04-2016, 10:56 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by thoer View Post
I would second Roberts suggestion. On both our Scamp and Escape, we had those black flakes after initial uses in both the furnace and water heater. My working theory has been that there is oil left on the steel used in the combustion chambers and burning it off leaves the residue. Our Escape's water heater began to shut itself off after running for a very short time. After using my air compressor to blow the flakes out of the combustion chamber and it started working perfectly again.
Oil or a coating on the new metal eh? Perhaps that's why. Thanks.

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Old 09-04-2016, 11:02 AM   #8
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I'm using the wrong terms Doug. On the water heater it's the chamber cover, on the furnace it's the exhaust/vent.
Yeah, I wasn't clear. In any case, blowing out the exhaust/vent worked for the furnace, and blowing out the chamber on the water heater worked too.

So, you blew compressed air into the furnace thru exhaust/vent ?
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:01 PM   #9
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Thanks guys. I blew air into the far end of the vent cone with my tire compressor, and we'll see how things go.

It took awhile to find a diagram for the Atwood AFS furnace ETI started using last year, but here is a PDF with a detailed parts diagram.
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/ass...l-Furnaces.pdf

These folks have a zoom photo, which shows the exterior vent assembly, the igniter board, the diagnostic list, and more. Atwood 32715 AFSD12111 DC Small Furnace 12,000 BTU | American RV Company

It looks like the burner is mounted vertically. I'm guessing if I pull the four screws, I can pull out the vent assembly and get better access to the burner, if necessary.

Attaching a non-zooming photo of the furnace.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg atwood afs.jpg (44.3 KB, 24 views)
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:30 PM   #10
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Our Escape is at the RV repair place tomorrow to have our 3 year old Atwood put back in working order. Blowing out the unit with compressed air did get it firing again, but as soon as it cooled the "sail switch" freezes and it won't ignite unless you remove the drawers along side and bang the furnace sides. RV shop will be removing the furnace completely to replace the switch (which the built in diagnostic panel says is problem). This will be a pricey repair. My question is whether anyone has mounted a hard wired electric ( if you can find one that is 120v) heater in the cabinet beneath the fridge (we have a 17)? I'm wondering that there must be a reason why electric heat is not on the option list.
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