Gopower solar controler vs trimetric

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Doing some research it appears that the ETI installed go power solar controller will not adjust charging voltage to recommend voltage for Interstate GC2-ECL-UTL 6 volt batteries . I have sent Interstate a email to confirm this and am waiting on reply.



I was planning on ordering there solar option. So I has solar at time of pickup.



I have installed in my casita a TM- 2030 trimetric battery monitor and sc 2030 solar controller. I had planned to sell along with casita.
Now i am thinking i might be better keep this system and order the pre wire solar



A few questions



1. will the gopower shorten the life of the batteries?

2. I understand that EFT puts blocks of wood in the area that the screw down the solar mounting brackets . has anyone used these locations for a after factory install panel?
3. How hard is it to get wiring in after the build?
4. I can get the prewire option that would go from roof to drivers side dinette with 10 ga wire. I would still need to get a wire from batteries to controller.
5. Is there a way to get wires from one front bench seat to the other without a raised floor?

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Just got a reply from Interstate






here is the gopower numbers

Battery Charging Profile
Sealed/Gel
AGM
Flooded
LifePO4
Bulk Charge Voltage Set Point
14.1V
14.4V
14.4V
14.4V
Absorption Charge Voltage (30 min / day)
14.1V
14.4V
14.4V
14.4V
Max. Power Boost Charge Voltage:
Automatic (2h if V < 12.3V)
14.1V
14.4V
14.4V
14.4V
Max. Power Boost Charge Voltage:
Manual (2h if activated)
14.1V
14.4V
14.4V
14.4V
Float Charge Voltage
13.7V
13.7V
13.7V
14.0V
Equalize Charge Voltage
(2h / 28 days or after V < 12.1V)
Disabled
Disabled
14.4V
Disabled

[padlin]

Used to be "14.5 VA for the bulk stage, 15.3 for absorption and 15.6 for equalization" for the Interstates. Either the specs changed when the model numbers changed from GC2-XHD-UTL to the ECL's, or they've rethought their profiles.

For the higher voltages I installed the Bogart, back in 2014.

[Lanark Camper]

I ordered the dual Interstate 6V wet cells and 190W solar panel on our 17B.



I wanted Escape to install the solar panel in case there should be an issue with the roof. I didn't know if Escape used any reinforcing where the panel was installed. Or if I installed a panel would it effect my warranty.


I told them I didn't want the solar controller they supplied, I wanted a Trimetric. That wasn't possible. Also they needed to install the complete solar system, panel and controller so it could be tested and the trailer "certified".



So after I bought the trailer I removed the supplied controller and installed a Trimetric system with battery monitor and charge controller. I'm able to program the controller for the exact profile the battery manufacturer specifies and I can tell what my state of charge is any time. I'm very pleased with the outcome.


I've installed a few solar systems on boats so familiar with how it all works and what I wanted.



Bob

[fudge_brownie]

The Interstates are flooded batteries. It appears GoPower lumps them with AGM and Gel. Padlin is correct in that Interstate has changed their charging specs slightly. They now want 14.8 for bulk and absorption and 15.6 for equalization. The GoPower will not work for bulk or absorption. I would not worry about achieving equalization charge rates because it is unlikely your solar panel could generate that charge for the two hours that are recommended.

Having used the TriMetric with a Blue Sky controller I was able to achieve the proper voltages for Bulk and Absorption. With a 120 watt panel at the peak of summer on a cloudless day I could not get to Equalization. When I switched to AGM batteries this past summer I had to up the game plan and provide for 12/24 volt selectable controller. All due to a larger panel working at 24 volts. Here I chose to go with the Victron Smart Controller. This model combines the features of the Trimetric with a phone app that talks to and reads the Victron. Since it is portable as the phone and with a range of 30 feet it eliminates craining my neck for the Trimetric. Much better graphing, reporting and easy to read interface. No need for a shunt. I bought the 100/15, the 75/15 would have worked. See this.
One device, gives you MPPT, battery monitoring and eliminates the shunt. Quite an easy install.

Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/15 Solar Charge Controller 100V 15A with Bluetooth

This unit also answers many of your other questions as you can install it and forget about it. No wires for the monitor, shunt wiring is out, it is temperature compensated. Really just and in from solar panel and out to battery with fusing and kill switch(s).

[Effie]

Not sure what trailer you’re getting, on my E19 I ordered the solar prep and installed the rest of the system myself. All wiring from the battery and the roof to the controller location was done as part of the solar prep, installing the controller was the easiest part of the install. I went with a Victron MPPT controller and a battery monitor.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by Effie

Not sure what trailer you’re getting, on my E19 I ordered the solar prep and installed the rest of the system myself. All wiring from the battery and the roof to the controller location was done as part of the solar prep, installing the controller was the easiest part of the install. I went with a Victron MPPT controller and a battery monitor.

How did you mount the panel?
Did you use the go pro panel?


My concern about mounting the panel myself is putting the mounting brackets in the correct location so when you screw them threw The fiberglass I would be hitting the installed wood blocks.
escape tells me they use wood blocks fiber glassed in at bracket locations

[Perry Butler]

Don't know where in the world you're going to get a 190 watt panel and solar controller for $680. Plus, the panel is properly installed. We decided to have them merely zip-tie the controller underneath the seat until we replace it with the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/15 Solar Charge Controller 100V 15A with Bluetooth that fudge_brownie suggested.

We have AGM batteries, and the GoPower controller works perfectly. After 198 nights in our camper we continue to be charged up and the GoPower controller is still zip tied underneath the camper. For the first 140 nights we only had a voltage reader in the 12v plug by the door to check the health of the batteries. If needed, we can pick up the seat and look/change settings on the zip-tied controller quite easily. Last summer I did install a Victron BMV-712 for a little better readout. Perhaps next fall I'll install the Victron 100/15 controller. The bluetooth is really nice in that I can see if the batteries are being charged while riding down the highway.

Knowing what I know today, I wouldn't have purchased the Victron BMV-712, but would have used that $200 to purchase the Victron 100/15 controller with bluetooth. Oh well, it's only money!

Again, I would definitely purchase the GoPower panels/controller and have the controller zip-tied underneath the bench. That way you avoid the ugly hole that will be left after you replace the controller with one of your choice.

Enjoy,

Perry

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Does anyone know .what will happen if you just leave the gopower controller installed ?

I know its not charging the batteries at the proper voltage But what are the affects of that?

I assume it will shorten the life of the batteries? is this a year less use a few months less use?
my camping is 80% no hook ups

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

Does anyone know .what will happen if you just leave the gopower controller installed ?

I know its not charging the batteries at the proper voltage But what are the affects of that?

I assume it will shorten the life of the batteries? is this a year less use a few months less use?
my camping is 80% no hook ups

We camp with no hookups as much as possible.

Flooded batteries are flooded batteries. Different manufacturers have different profiles, but not adhering to their profile will NOT shorten the life of your battery. However, not checking the fluid level in your battery, or continually draining your battery will shorten the life, but the GoPower controller won't (unless you're an anal-retentive hair splitter).

I don't buy into the PWM vs MPPT argument, except the MPPT will work slight better when charging under 35 degrees. Considering we have over 30 nights under 35 degrees, that hasn't been a problem with our PWM GoPower controller. YMMV.

The reasons I would purchase a better controller is for the few times I need slightly better charging (so far, with 198 nights hasn't happened), better equalization, bluetooth to read the info, and the historical data stored if you have a problem.

Remember that $680 is mostly for the 190w panel and the PITA installation. The GoPower is just a cheap contoller (can be purchased for $50) that so far works fine for us.

Enjoy,

Perry

[jxoco]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

The fiberglass I would be hitting the installed wood blocks.
escape tells me they use wood blocks fiber glassed in at bracket locations

Escape would tell you where the blocks are.
what model are you buying? 17 19 21 5.0
Or, Someone here can tell you where the mounts are.

What model of go power controller are you considering, your numbers don't match the label on mine.
I have mine set on 14.8v, 13.4v, 15.3v and I bet the battery is seeing .1 volts less because of wiring and no voltage sensor monitoring cable.

I have an older 17, there are no blocks, the rear mounts are bolts thru the roof into the cabinets, I can see them.
I have original interstate 6v batteries and had a gopower 25amp that I replaced this year with a gopower 30, because it has the capability of a temperature sensor. Which I haven't got yet.
The thick 10 gauge wire comes thru the roof to the charge controller in the cabinets and then more 10 gauge down to where the battery is.
No voltage or temperature sensing wires. The simplest install for them.
They are trailer guys not solar guys.
The biggest problem is that the gopower only stays in Bulk for 1 hour, I think. My original gopower was 30 minutes. So when the sun came up in the morning it wasn't grabing all of it.

The gopower has never let me down.
But,
The trimetric is better, end of story.
I would remove it and keep it. And get the dual 6v batteries and the roughed in wiring. Find a panel and install it (you will find posts here of people installing flexible panels by taping them on). And re-installing your trimetric into you new trailer.
I think that Escape will run the phone type wire for the connection between the controller and the meter if you ask them, for a minimal charge.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Don't know where in the world you're going to get a 190 watt panel and solar controller for $680. Plus, the panel is properly installed. We decided to have them merely zip-tie the controller underneath the seat until we replace it with the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/15 Solar Charge Controller 100V 15A with Bluetooth that fudge_brownie suggested.

We have AGM batteries, and the GoPower controller works perfectly. After 198 nights in our camper we continue to be charged up and the GoPower controller is still zip tied underneath the camper. For the first 140 nights we only had a voltage reader in the 12v plug by the door to check the health of the batteries. If needed, we can pick up the seat and look/change settings on the zip-tied controller quite easily. Last summer I did install a Victron BMV-712 for a little better readout. Perhaps next fall I'll install the Victron 100/15 controller. The bluetooth is really nice in that I can see if the batteries are being charged while riding down the highway.

Knowing what I know today, I wouldn't have purchased the Victron BMV-712, but would have used that $200 to purchase the Victron 100/15 controller with bluetooth. Oh well, it's only money!

Again, I would definitely purchase the GoPower panels/controller and have the controller zip-tied underneath the bench. That way you avoid the ugly hole that will be left after you replace the controller with one of your choice.

Enjoy,

Perry

Several of the people who I have helped with their build sheets have requested that the GoPower controller be not mounted and received them tierapped under the bench seating. The only issue with that is they have to order the separate inverter switch (https://gpelectric.com/products/pure...mote-gp-swr-a/) as with the GoPower controller - it is built into the controller and goes away when you replace it.

Both are installing the Victron 100/30 SmartSolar controllers and Victron 712 battery monitors. The 100/15 is fine if you do not intend to ever add another solar panel or use a portable - it's close to it's limit with just the 190 watt panel that Escape installs.

Buying the solar package is just a smart way to go if you want solar on the Escape. For the price that Escape charges, it makes no sense to not get it from them even if you toss the GoPower PWM that comes with it.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by jxoco

Escape would tell you where the blocks are.
what model are you buying? 17 19 21 5.0
Or, Someone here can tell you where the mounts are.

What model of go power controller are you considering, your numbers don't match the label on mine.
I have mine set on 14.8v, 13.4v, 15.3v and I bet the battery is seeing .1 volts less because of wiring and no voltage sensor monitoring cable.

I have an older 17, there are no blocks, the rear mounts are bolts thru the roof into the cabinets, I can see them.
I have original interstate 6v batteries and had a gopower 25amp that I replaced this year with a gopower 30, because it has the capability of a temperature sensor. Which I haven't got yet.
The thick 10 gauge wire comes thru the roof to the charge controller in the cabinets and then more 10 gauge down to where the battery is.
No voltage or temperature sensing wires. The simplest install for them.
They are trailer guys not solar guys.
The biggest problem is that the gopower only stays in Bulk for 1 hour, I think. My original gopower was 30 minutes. So when the sun came up in the morning it wasn't grabing all of it.

The gopower has never let me down.
But,
The trimetric is better, end of story.
I would remove it and keep it. And get the dual 6v batteries and the roughed in wiring. Find a panel and install it (you will find posts here of people installing flexible panels by taping them on). And re-installing your trimetric into you new trailer.
I think that Escape will run the phone type wire for the connection between the controller and the meter if you ask them, for a minimal charge.

I am ordering a 19' trailer and escape now
installs the gopower 30 amp, lithium compatible, PWM, Dual Bank Bluetooth® solar controller (GP-PWM-30-UL)

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Several of the people who I have helped with their build sheets have requested that the GoPower controller be not mounted and received them tierapped under the bench seating. The only issue with that is they have to order the separate inverter switch (https://gpelectric.com/products/pure...mote-gp-swr-a/) as with the GoPower controller - it is built into the controller and goes away when you replace it.

Both are installing the Victron 100/30 SmartSolar controllers and Victron 712 battery monitors. The 100/15 is fine if you do not intend to ever add another solar panel or use a portable - it's close to it's limit with just the 190 watt panel that Escape installs.

Buying the solar package is just a smart way to go if you want solar on the Escape. For the price that Escape charges, it makes no sense to not get it from them even if you toss the GoPower PWM that comes with it.

Not mounting the Go power controller Might be the best way to go. I will not have a inverter so would not need the switch

[Lanark Camper]

My Gopower controller was installed in the upper cabinet where the wires from the panel penetrate the roof.

I covered the hole in the cabinet with an aluminum panel I fabed up. Installed the Trimetric monitor in it.

Easy to run new wires down to the back of the trailer where the SC 2030 charge controller and shunt were installed close to the batteries sitting on the rear bumper. Increased the panel wire and battery cable sizes added fuses and a switch to turn the panel output off. Also ran a battery temperature wire as well.

The panel needs to be shut off if you disconnect the batteries or the controller may be damaged. The basic install from the factory does not include that.

I then sat down and drew a schematic diagram of the wiring I'd installed and appended it the factory manual.

Bob

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Lanark Camper

My Gopower controller was installed in the upper cabinet where the wires from the panel penetrate the roof.

I covered the hole in the cabinet with an aluminum panel I fabed up. Installed the Trimetric monitor in it.

Easy to run new wires down to the back of the trailer where the SC 2030 charge controller and shunt were installed close to the batteries sitting on the rear bumper. Increased the panel wire and battery cable sizes added fuses and a switch to turn the panel output off. Also ran a battery temperature wire as well.

The panel needs to be shut off if you disconnect the batteries or the controller may be damaged. The basic install from the factory does not include that.

I then sat down and drew a schematic diagram of the wiring I'd installed and appended it the factory manual.

Bob

Nice , neat work ! Pat

[Greg A]

When I change to the Victron MPPT controller, I have a similar design concept sketched out with red oak plate on a hinge so that the controller will be hidden since it is bluetooth.

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by Lanark Camper

I then sat down and drew a schematic diagram of the wiring I'd installed and appended it the factory manual.

Bob

Please post a copy of your schematic diagram here if possible. I think many of us will find it useful.

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

We camp with no hookups as much as possible.

Flooded batteries are flooded batteries. Different manufacturers have different profiles, but not adhering to their profile will NOT shorten the life of your battery. However, not checking the fluid level in your battery, or continually draining your battery will shorten the life, but the GoPower controller won't (unless you're an anal-retentive hair splitter).

I don't buy into the PWM vs MPPT argument, except the MPPT will work slight better when charging under 35 degrees. Considering we have over 30 nights under 35 degrees, that hasn't been a problem with our PWM GoPower controller. YMMV.

The reasons I would purchase a better controller is for the few times I need slightly better charging (so far, with 198 nights hasn't happened), better equalization, bluetooth to read the info, and the historical data stored if you have a problem.

Remember that $680 is mostly for the 190w panel and the PITA installation. The GoPower is just a cheap contoller (can be purchased for $50) that so far works fine for us.

Enjoy,

Perry

I think the Go power controller works pretty well and will not damage your batteries. In fact I've been pleasantly surprised with the ETI solar and Interstate batteries. Well, sorta pleasantly, since I would love an excuse to swap them out for a couple lithiums but I just can't justify it after a year of using the Interstates.

We have two panels but it is pretty cool to stop for lunch and run the microwave to heat lunch and sometimes by the time we are back on the road the panels have the batteries back to 100% as measured by the Victron 712.

[Effie]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

How did you mount the panel?
Did you use the go pro panel?

You can see my install link below, definitely not the easiest way to go about it but helps to maximize the limited roof area.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...all-15925.html

[DonF]

Originally Posted by Lanark Camper

The panel needs to be shut off if you disconnect the batteries or the controller may be damaged. The basic install from the factory does not include that.

Bob

Several months ago, I had the same concern about damaging the Go Power controller if the batteries were disconnected. I asked Go Power and this is the reply I received from tech services:

"Thank you for your inquiry. You can simply remove the batteries without any issues because the solar controller needs power from the battery for it to operate. I would tape off the battery cables though and if possible cover the panels with something that light cannot get through."

I did remove the batteries from the system for several days and the controller was not damaged.
Don