Solar Port

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

... Scamp uses them to mount internal things, like cabinets.

And those lovely 3/4" too long screws they used to attach my cabinets. Still some of my blood in that Scamp where ever it is now...

[garysd]

For our new 21 we're getting a solar panel on the roof and a Zamp port installed by ETI on the D/S Rear Beside Power Cord. My understanding is that with the Zamp port installed by ETI, it's connected to the solar controller and, according to a Zamp engineer, we need to get a solar panel without their charge controller. Not sure if most portable solar panels have built-in charge controllers, but Zamp sells them both ways.

If that's correct, and I may very well be mistaken , then it seems you could get a portable panel with a built in charge controller and either use a port connected through the battery box to the battery (not sure if that's possible) on the rear bumper of your 17', or just use alligator clips to connect to the battery like Glenn does. No holes required.

Gary

[thoer]

Gary, the charge controllers that come with most portable panels are, uuum, not the best quality But if you find a panel for a good price that you like, it is easy to just bypass the built in controller.

[blakebt]

Sounds like with the 17B and the battery on the bumper we don't even need a port. Now to decide on 2- 6V batteries or the 12V that comes with it. Thanks for your help.

[float5]

Originally Posted by blakebt

Sounds like with the 17B and the battery on the bumper we don't even need a port. Now to decide on 2- 6V batteries or the 12V that comes with it. Thanks for your help.

Two 6vs are highly recommended for use with solar.

[thoer]

If you plan to do much of any boondocking - the dual 6V will provide you with quite a bit more power. Good luck with all your decisions.

[fudge_brownie]

Thank you for pointing out that you may not need to cut a hole. If the batteries remain on the rear bumper of the 17 you will probably install you own solar system from the battery box outward. Dual sixes are what I am assuming.

So first is a panel, preferably without a controller or one that can be pitched. This panel does not to be a specific brand or style though you are welcome to research which are best. They are pretty much a commodity item. Sizing is more important, those options change on a daily basis. 150 watt? Also consider what you are going to do with the panel during transport. Do you have a place to fit? A single 150 watt will not fit many places. Perhaps a suitcase panel, maybe even a three fold.

Then a cable to run from the panel to the controller/battery. If your panel came with a cable the chances are you can throw it away, too light weight. Something in 10 gauge and a length of 50 feet+. I have used a high quality speaker wire from Amazon, irrigation wire is another option.

Now at the battery you will need a weatherproof box to host your controller. The controller cannot be inside the battery box so you will have to find some way to mount it or make it removable. Thus your actual connection to the battery will be using Andersen Power Poles or something like your Zamp connector but not permanently mounted. No drilling needed.

Spend some time on the controller purchase, they are not all equal. The solar junkies on the forum like the Blue Sky and Bogart controllers because of their high charge rates.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by keithgugliotto

Just gotta get over that sinking feeling of plowing through the hull. I'd get a hole saw out of it, though... Who can resist more tools?

You'll get over it. Trailer came with a rare recirculating range hood. Hole was made to vent to the outside when I did the SAM-1 upgrade. It had to be aligned perfectly. Yeah a little nervous but took the time to be absolutely certain of the cuts. The bath window retrofit will be really fun!

[gbaglo]

My solar set-up is a couple Coleman 40 watt panels that I got on sale at Canadian Tire for $99 CAD each. They each came with a 7 watt controller. I had to buy a hub ( $25 ) so I could connect the two panels to one controller. One 7 watt controller is sufficient for two panels.
The panels and controller are not the best technology available, but sufficient for our power requirements, as is the single group 27 battery. I'd be happier with two 6V batteries, but I'd also have spent more money and have to spend more when they need to be replaced.
My power requirements are the furnace, fridge, LED lights, water pump, satellite radio, and charging laptop and cell phones.
So, my solar set-up cost me about $250. It's not high tech and a bit of a pain to carry around and set up ( I store the panels in the cardboard boxes they came in, after wrapping the boxes in cello packing tape ).
Panels came with all sorts of wires and connectors.
Tend to boondock for a week at a time.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My solar set-up is a couple Coleman 40 watt panels that I got on sale at Canadian Tire for $99 CAD each. They each came with a 7 watt controller. I had to buy a hub ( $25 ) so I could connect the two panels to one controller. One 7 watt controller is sufficient for two panels.

40 watt panels, 7 AMP controller

Like the setup. It doesn't have to be super expensive to work.

[thoer]

Mine was an Eco-Worthy 80W Folding Panel

The ability to fold made it much easier to transport and store. They have a variety of sizes for decent prices. They also sell them thru Amazon and eBay, sometimes for less at one site or another. I replaced the included controller with a Morningstar SunSaver - not a top of the line model, but fine for my needs. Total cost was about $250

[keithgugliotto]

Originally Posted by thoer

Proflex is what Reace uses and I have followed his lead. I think ,ETI used to put the controller readout on the front of the passenger side bench but someone with a non-2017 model will need to correct or confirm

Thanks, Eric! I'll get a tube of Pro Flex when the time comes, though Kalin is shaking her head violently, declaiming "NO SIR!" at the idea of me sawing into the side of the camper. We shall see... And though I'm fine with having the controller down low in the dinette, I might still see if ETI will drop Cat-5 from the batteries to above the fridge for cheap-ish, just in case, to make it easier if we want to put a controller readout up there someday.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by keithgugliotto

Thanks, Eric! I'll get a tube of Pro Flex when the time comes, though Kalin is shaking her head violently, declaiming "NO SIR!" at the idea of me sawing into the side of the camper. We shall see... And though I'm fine with having the controller down low in the dinette, I might still see if ETI will drop Cat-5 from the batteries to above the fridge for cheap-ish, just in case, to make it easier if we want to put a controller readout up there someday.

I surely understand Kalin's point of view. My hands will be shaking if I decide to put one of those same ports in the side of ours for easy hookup of my BatteryMinder charger I use during storage.

I think running asking ETI to run the wires up into the overhead cabinet is a great idea.

[keithgugliotto]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

You'll get over it. Trailer came with a rare recirculating range hood. Hole was made to vent to the outside when I did the SAM-1 upgrade. It had to be aligned perfectly. Yeah a little nervous but took the time to be absolutely certain of the cuts. The bath window retrofit will be really fun!

Showed your cutout pic to my lady friend and she just gasped !

The more encouragement I get, though, the more I think a small circular port or two should be easy...and it'll be kinda fun to see Kalin pale when I actually start cutting, half-stifling a maniacal laugh.

[hollis]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

Thank you for pointing out that you may not need to cut a hole. If the batteries remain on the rear bumper of the 17 you will probably install you own solar system from the battery box outward. Dual sixes are what I am assuming.

So first is a panel, preferably without a controller or one that can be pitched. This panel does not to be a specific brand or style though you are welcome to research which are best. They are pretty much a commodity item. Sizing is more important, those options change on a daily basis. 150 watt? Also consider what you are going to do with the panel during transport. Do you have a place to fit? A single 150 watt will not fit many places. Perhaps a suitcase panel, maybe even a three fold.

Then a cable to run from the panel to the controller/battery. If your panel came with a cable the chances are you can throw it away, too light weight. Something in 10 gauge and a length of 50 feet+. I have used a high quality speaker wire from Amazon, irrigation wire is another option.

Now at the battery you will need a weatherproof box to host your controller. The controller cannot be inside the battery box so you will have to find some way to mount it or make it removable. Thus your actual connection to the battery will be using Andersen Power Poles or something like your Zamp connector but not permanently mounted. No drilling needed.

Spend some time on the controller purchase, they are not all equal. The solar junkies on the forum like the Blue Sky and Bogart controllers because of their high charge rates.

Paul - I could use some advice from you and others on the forum who have an understanding of the best way to connect a portable panel to a 2017 21'.

First some background. I am days away from finalizing my build sheet for my 21' due in June. I am not getting the Escape roof mounted solar option however for the last four or five years I have have good success using a 90W portable panel (connected directly to the battery} to keep the battery on my Casita nicely topped off when boondocking. I will be getting the dual six volt batteries on the 21' and, based on the successful experience of a local friend who has a 2015 21' (also with dual six volt batteries) who uses a 100W portable panel connected to a Zamp solar port on the trailer, I was planning to do basically what he has done. His Zamp solar port is installed on the passenger side rear of the trailer so that it leads directly into the space under the dinette to a charge controller and then to the batteries.

At present on my build sheet I have the installation of the Zamp solar port on the passenger side rear selected and had assumed, as my friend experienced, that I would be responsible for connecting the Zamp to a controller and then to the battery. Then several days ago, when discussing the Zamp option with Escape, it was mentioned that the Zamp port would be wired to the battery as part of the installation. So, I guess that's OK with me since I can always add the controller where it needs to be.

Then tonight when I followed up just to verify that the Zamp port would be installed and wired to the battery I was told that the Zamp would, in fact, be wired directly to the converter (not controller).

So I'm understandably a bit confused at the moment. I've done it for years, and I know on both this and the Casita forums that connecting a portable solar panel to the battery is a routine way to charge the battery. On the other hand, connecting the solar panel to the converter was a totally new to me.

So, my question to you and other experienced solar folks on the forum is does this sound right? It seems strange to me, but if it's an OK way to solar charge the batteries, at a minimum, since the converter is on the driver side under the dinette bench, I'm probably putting the Zamp port on the wrong side of the trailer.


Any helpful suggestions/thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Chuck

[fudge_brownie]

I would have to agree with your assessment, I cannot see a reason for connecting the solar panel to the converter. Based on your plan I would have to say you do not want them to connect the panel to the battery either, you have stated you will have a solar controller in the mix. Unless they are assuming you will have a rooftop panel and their solar controller.

Here would be my take on best practices for your situation. I would install the port on the curb side right at the batteries. I have a bit of a problem with the Zamp connector and that is that it has 12 inches of 12 gauge wire, it would be better if it were 10 gauge and longer wire. Maybe there are other models I am not seeing? You will need to find the plug for the Zamp receptacle, what gauge will that be? As I stated above, 10 gauge of 50' from the panel to the port is best. To connect the Zamp you will have to add wire, I would recommend adding 8 or 10 gauge depending on what your solar controller will accept. To do that junction of 12 gauge to 8 gauge you really should have them in a box, do not use wire nuts for the joining. This maybe a time to think of a kill switch, since you have a portable unit it is not as necessary as when having a roof top.

The 8 or 10 gauge wire then goes from the junction box to the solar controller, I installed an automotive type fuse on this line. From the solar controller to the battery it is critical that you use the heaviest gauge wire as possible, 8 being a minimum. The distance from the solar controller to the battery should be kept to one meter. I would definitely recommend a kill switch on this line so you can turn off the solar controller, another place for an automotive fuse.

For the cabling, I purchased a hydraulic crimper and made my own. The 8 gauge wire came from an inexpensive set of jumper cables purchased just for this purpose. Other sources would be battery stores or welding shops. An option in place of the Zamp would be a "marine inlet". When I installed they only had 15 amp but I see 30 and 50 amp now. The only issue is someone misusing the socket.

Since I am charging the dual six volt batteries at the high charge rates that Interstate recommends I find my 120 watt panel is not quite enough. I do spend two 2 week periods off the grid in mid summer and it does maintain but not 100% charge.

[hollis]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

I would have to agree with your assessment, I cannot see a reason for connecting the solar panel to the converter. Based on your plan I would have to say you do not want them to connect the panel to the battery either, you have stated you will have a solar controller in the mix. Unless they are assuming you will have a rooftop panel and their solar controller.

Here would be my take on best practices for your situation. I would install the port on the curb side right at the batteries. I have a bit of a problem with the Zamp connector and that is that it has 12 inches of 12 gauge wire, it would be better if it were 10 gauge and longer wire. Maybe there are other models I am not seeing? You will need to find the plug for the Zamp receptacle, what gauge will that be? As I stated above, 10 gauge of 50' from the panel to the port is best. To connect the Zamp you will have to add wire, I would recommend adding 8 or 10 gauge depending on what your solar controller will accept. To do that junction of 12 gauge to 8 gauge you really should have them in a box, do not use wire nuts for the joining. This maybe a time to think of a kill switch, since you have a portable unit it is not as necessary as when having a roof top.

The 8 or 10 gauge wire then goes from the junction box to the solar controller, I installed an automotive type fuse on this line. From the solar controller to the battery it is critical that you use the heaviest gauge wire as possible, 8 being a minimum. The distance from the solar controller to the battery should be kept to one meter. I would definitely recommend a kill switch on this line so you can turn off the solar controller, another place for an automotive fuse.

For the cabling, I purchased a hydraulic crimper and made my own. The 8 gauge wire came from an inexpensive set of jumper cables purchased just for this purpose. Other sources would be battery stores or welding shops. An option in place of the Zamp would be a "marine inlet". When I installed they only had 15 amp but I see 30 and 50 amp now. The only issue is someone misusing the socket.

Since I am charging the dual six volt batteries at the high charge rates that Interstate recommends I find my 120 watt panel is not quite enough. I do spend two 2 week periods off the grid in mid summer and it does maintain but not 100% charge.

Paul - thanks for the quick reply. Before Escape indicated that they were going to connect the Zamp to the converter I had been planning to basically do what you outlined to connect the solar port to a solar controller and then the battery.

Since I remain puzzled by the rationale for connecting the solar port to the to the converter I'm going to try and talk to someone technical at Escape to try and understand their reasoning. I think I'll also post this question on a new thread since, having read a lot of your solar posts in the past, I sort of jumped on this thread hoping to get your thoughts. Maybe there are some folks out there who have had the solar to converter connection done by Escape that can explain how it has worked out.

I'm getting to the point where the build sheet needs to be finished and this is the last remaining item so I appreciate your timely response. At this point, based on my experience, I'm still thinking the connection, as you described, to the battery is the way to go.

Chuck