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Old 05-24-2019, 07:17 PM   #1
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Paperwork done; waiting started

My 5.0 build sheet is now signed. August 26 orientation scheduled. Only 3 months to go - and then I get to start the real customizations.

Build sheets don't tell the why but here is mine with almost 2 full pages of yellow. Feel free to ask about the mysterious ones.

The answer to the why of the orange markouts is: These are items that ETI is making a special accomodation for me and I do not feel at liberty to give the details at this time.
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Old 05-24-2019, 11:32 PM   #2
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Tom, isn't it nice to have everything just as you want it?? I can only hope that you will be as happy with your Escape as I am with mine. See you at DHRSP next Spring if I don't see you before that. There's a fiberglass rally at Lake Casitas (near Santa Barbara area) in late October just before the Lone Pine gathering.
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Old 05-24-2019, 11:42 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
There's a fiberglass rally at Lake Casitas (near Santa Barbara area) in late October just before the Lone Pine gathering.
I don't get back to my "home" location in AZ until early Oct and with the F-O-W rally at the end of Oct I don't think time allows for a gathering between the dates. But next year will be another story as I put the Escape thru some extensive camp time in the southwest.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:34 AM   #4
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I don't see anywhere that you split the cushions on the back wall of the u-shaped dinette. We had our cushions split, but forgot to split the plywood access cover, so on the maiden voyage the entire back wall cushions had to be removed to access under the bench. PITA! I split the access cover as soon as we got home.

We access that storage underneath the back wall of the u-shaped dinette frequently and don't even want to think of trying to move cushions that are the entire width of the back wall. You probably still have time to get the cushions split.

Food for thought.

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Old 05-25-2019, 08:04 AM   #5
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Paperwork done; waiting started

I’m guessing they’re putting lithiums into a custom box for you. Do you plan on boondocking much or intend to primarily plug in? Dual solar panels suggest the former but induction cooktop suggests the latter. Should be interesting. I’m sure you’ve done the amp hour maths.
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:29 AM   #6
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I don't see anywhere that you split the cushions on the back wall of the u-shaped dinette.
ETI would not do the cushions to suit my final configuration so I'll be doing it after delivery.

I am going to totally eliminate the P/S cushions and essentially extend the kitchen counter in that area. I will have a couple of drawer or cupboard units made that will sit on that bench base to house my countertop oven, Instant Pot & accessories. The doors in the face of the seat base and the shell will allow access underneath. Those P/S cushions will be used as the rear, split cushions, modified as needed for my desired seating.

I do not expect to be accessing the rear seat base for storage. That is where I'll be putting all the electrical connections to support wiring for the battery shunt and relays to have almost all control switches grouped near the entry. I will be replacing the ETI solar controller & inverter with higher capacity units and adding a smaller inverter for when I don't need "whole house" power. I have premade some 1'x1' plywood boards with all the electrical components on them and intend to use them as part of the structural support for a Lagun table mount.
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:40 AM   #7
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Do you plan on boondocking much or intend to primarily plug in?
Historically, I am plugged in most of the time but do spend about 25% of my time unplugged. Currently, with just 100 watts of solar, I use a Honda 2000 for running the kitchen - 1 appliance at a time. The additional solar is to support less genny use when just using the microwave for reheating & yogurt making in the IP. Induction burner & countertop oven are still expected to be genny powered.
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Old 05-26-2019, 08:39 AM   #8
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I have premade some 1'x1' plywood boards with all the electrical components on them and intend to use them as part of the structural support for a Lagun table mount.

Wow! That is going to be slick!
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:37 AM   #9
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If anyone needs an explanation for my boards here it is:
--top L-R:
------Battery connections (catastrophy fuse, shunt, cutoff relay)
------Negative connection points
------Positive connections #1 with fuses/circuit breaker
--bottom L-R:
------Positive connections #2
------Relays & connection points
------Switches & connection points

Not showing is the reverse side of the relay board (attached pic). It has the solar connection points & more remote switch connection points.
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:55 AM   #10
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This pic shows how I hope to assemble the electrical boards into the support structure for the Lagun table mount. Once installed I will place some plastic sheets (probably cutting boards) between the boards to ensure no shorts between them if a wire comes loose.

If space does not allow for this structure then the boards can be placed as needed or the components can be totally reconfigured.

I have tested it and everything works as expected - after I redid the battery cutoff relay a bit. I was not getting enough power back from the remote switch (via rj45 wiring) to activate the relay. That board now has a standalone relay setup that the remote switch operates to get adequate power to operate the HD battery relay.
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:38 AM   #11
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To connect the devices to be able to use my remote switches via the relays I will cut the power wire where it leaves the converter and extend it to the relay/switch connection point, then run it back to the cut location. Ditto for the negative if needed to ensure it goes thru the monitor shunt.

I have a supply of wire and butt connectors (crimp type heat shrink with waterproof adhesive) of various sizes for this splicing.

The switch location will actually have several "hot" wires: 1) main 12v for the switches & relays, controlled by the battery cutoff; 2) the small inverter has remote switch capability so it will extend to the switch location (inverter controlled by the battery cutoff); 3) the battery cutoff relay itself (always hot).
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Old 05-26-2019, 08:41 PM   #12
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My last 3 RVs had the switches & remote displays all grouped together and at a height to be easily seen & used. I want to duplicate this in the Escape.

The remote displays for the EMS, solar & big inverter are on the build sheet as "don't install" so they are supposed to be left under the dinette seating, thus no holes to be patched because ... I will be installing them and the battery monitor display in the space above the fridge. They will be recessed with a smoked plexy door at the wall. The recessing & door will somewhat hide the disparate looking displays while still being able to see them.

In addition to the move of the remote displays I am replacing the ETI supplied inverter & solar controller with ones with individual remotes so there will be 4 controls above the fridge: battery, ems, solar, inverter. When I started this process last Oct. the tank monitor/pump switch was above the fridge but since then ETI has moved it to above the stove. Five displays above the fridge was somewhat tight but with the monitor panel move by ETI to its new standard location there is plenty of room.

I'd love to prebuild the mounting setup for these displays but until I get the panel off I won't know exactly what size space I'll be working with.
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:04 PM   #13
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As hinted at by the build sheet showing the wider bottom step to the loft, I will be installing a kickspace heater, emulating Jim Bennett, but with a twist.

I will have 2 power sources possible for the heater: ETI is running a wire for me from the rear dinette seat power center area for sharing the 30 amps from the power cord. I will also have a 120 volt input plug that I can use if the power pedestal has a second plug. These two power sources will have a relay for switching between them that will be controlled by a switch located by the thermostat.

The heater that I have (Qmark Qts1500t, from Amazon) does not have a built-in switch like Jim's for selecting between heating power levels, but an internal jumper. I will be wiring that jumper to a relay controlled by a switch located by the thermostat.

I am having ETI leave the 120v cable unconnected underneath the dinette seat. If there is an available breaker space in the power center I will connect it there. If there is no spare breaker space I will tie into the AC power line since both would not normally be on at the same time. This connection may or may not be via an automatic load shed device. With all the other changes/additions I will be doing under the rear dinette seat I will use the load shed device if there is adequate space. Otherwise I'll risk a breaker disconnect.

I have supplied a 7 wire thermostat cable for ETI to run for the thermostat. I intend to use unused wires in that cable for the input power selector and the low/high heat selection.

The thermostat I got (Honeywell RTH8500D 7-day programmable) is much more capable than just automatically ensuring it is warmer in the morning than when sleeping. I anticipate that I may eventually do some testing to see if it can replace the ETI thermostat with just this one. It may need some finagling with relays but it just might be possible.
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