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Old 05-04-2014, 11:04 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
Those are ugly chatter marks on the aluminum sheet in one of the additional photos. Fiberglass would be far worse. Use a sharp/new drill bit when drilling out rivets.

Charlie Y
I don't know tractors it looks like minimal damage to me. Once a stainless screw head goes in the hole and it gets covered with caulk I think your good to go! When I tried using a sharp drill bit the damn rivet just starting spinning.
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:11 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I would like machine screws into insert nuts - which would be much more installation work than rivets even though the insert nuts work similarly - but I wouldn't want self-tapping screws trying to grip the thin fiberglass shell. I hate rivets, but they work to fasten thin material and don't loosen much.

I do have some self-tapping screws into the shell of my current trailer, but as few as possible.
In my particular case I was replacing the bathroom vent. Between the bathroom enclosure and the fiberglass shell is a space where a slat of wood can fit. The replacement screws went through the vent frame, through the butyl tape and into the wooden slat. Caulk around the perimeter and the screw heads I was good to go.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:35 PM   #13
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Please, no caulk on fiberglass. If Donna finds out, you will hear it from her, caulk and fiberglass do not mix.
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:00 PM   #14
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Please, no caulk on fiberglass. If Donna finds out, you will hear it from her, caulk and fiberglass do not mix.
There's nothing wrong with using the proper caulk with professional looking results on the exterior of an all molded towable. However, never around the perimeter of a window, it's not needed.

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Old 05-04-2014, 02:13 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Please, no caulk on fiberglass. If Donna finds out, you will hear it from her, caulk and fiberglass do not mix.
I think you'll see caulk rounding every perimeter of every add on that's on your roof!
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:55 PM   #16
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Back to reetired on the build sheet question....we learned that it's critical that everything you expect to see on or in your Escape be listed clearly on the build sheet. That's your contract. Email agreements about things being done a certain way do not guarantee that things will be done that way during your build. This sounds so obvious to me as I write this, but we put a little too much faith in emails. It caused us a some consternation when we picked up our 19. Nothing more than a slight disappointment, but still a lesson to us.
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Parker View Post
Back to reetired on the build sheet question....we learned that it's critical that everything you expect to see on or in your Escape be listed clearly on the build sheet. That's your contract. Email agreements about things being done a certain way do not guarantee that things will be done that way during your build. This sounds so obvious to me as I write this, but we put a little too much faith in emails. It caused us a some consternation when we picked up our 19. Nothing more than a slight disappointment, but still a lesson to us.
Absolutely concur. Each email add/delete/change order gets filed away in a folder that will wind up as a binding order on the build sheet when we finalize it.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:18 AM   #18
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Reading this reminds me of the exercise where one person on one side of the room says something to their right and by the time it gets to the other side of the room, something entirely different is quoted. Yes, any and all emails and phone calls re:changes/options should be documented on the build sheet. Mine was 2 complete pages full when completed, and had "DO NOT CHANGE WITHOUT REACE"S KNOWLEDGE" written on the top. This is important where someone else is building your vision of what you want. Clear, concise communication is needed and I have found the addition of Ms. Kim in the front office to be a great help in explaining your wants.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:38 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by J Mac View Post
In my particular case I was replacing the bathroom vent. Between the bathroom enclosure and the fiberglass shell is a space where a slat of wood can fit. The replacement screws went through the vent frame, through the butyl tape and into the wooden slat.
Thanks - that's an excellent example of where screws (self-tapping threads or in this case wood threads) do make sense.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:33 PM   #20
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Re: using screws instead of rivets. I used to do aircraft maintenance and they use both screws and rivets. The rivets were frequently easier to remove because the screws had so much corrosion on them that the heads either stripped or broke off and then had to be drilled out anyway. I know aircraft are in a much harsher environment but I'm sure the main difference would be how frequently the screws are removed.
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