19' 110V Electrical mods - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-29-2014, 12:31 PM   #1
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19' 110V Electrical mods

We are VERY happy with our new 19 but as in many things I want what I want.

We got the trailer (new this month) with solar, twin 6V batteries, 1500 watt inverter, large fridge, microwave under the stove on the transfer switch, and transfer switch factory installed. The factory installed a 2 breaker secondary AC panel. ALL (including the fridge) the outlets were on the transfer switch.

NOTE: (disclaimer weasel words - if you don't understand PLEASE get someone to explain it before changing anything) I still have a max of 30 amps to the trailer. I still have a max of 30 amps at the secondary panel. The water heater element on 110V draws 12 amps and the fridge on 110V draws 2 amps and the converter draw depends on the 12V usage and the battery status so even on the grid there may be only 15 amps available for the outlets. And the inverter is only 1500 Watts so off the grid I start with less than 15 amps available.

I made the following changes:
1) In the secondary AC panel only one of the phases was hot, so I jumpered the 2 phases together. I also installed a second tandem 15-15 circuit breaker - have to remove the CTL tab to install it. The factory also did this on the original tandem breaker. (This does not meet electrical codes - the box is only rated for 2 single breakers.)
2) I moved the fridge circuit out of the secondary panel and to a breaker added in the main power panel - so the fridge on "Automatic" would not run off the inverter. (I think/hope this will become standard.)
3) (circuit 1) Left the passenger dinette side outlet alone - it is on a dedicated circuit.
4) Removed and (later) re-installed the furnace and microwave to make the remaining steps easier.
5) (circuit 2) Removed all the kitchen outlets (including the microwave) from the original remaining circuit. It now feeds the outlet below the fridge and the added outlet by the TV arm/radio/thermostat on the back side of the fridge wall. We use a 110V space heater when connected to the grid and plug it into the outlet below the fridge.
6) (circuit 3) Added a new feed to the microwave and the outlet by the head of the bed.
7) (circuit 4) Added a new feed to the exterior GFI, the outlet by the door, and the added outlet below the stove (and above the microwave.)
8 ) Put a lighted switch in the 110V water heater feed circuit, so I don't have to go outside to turn it on/off. (Or use the breaker.)
9) Added a switch with an "on" indicator for the water heater gas switch. Little House Customs (page down to ILLUMINATED WATER HEATER SWITCH)
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:12 PM   #2
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All I did was the last two mods, though I don't have solar, inverter or a microwave. I see somebody copied my mod on the water heater gas switch and is marketing it. Don't I get royalties.

I do understand removing the fridge from the transfer circuit, but what was the purpose of adding the new feeds? I thought the M/W feed on its own anyway?
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
...
I do understand removing the fridge from the transfer circuit, but what was the purpose of adding the new feeds? I thought the M/W feed on its own anyway?
ALL (including the microwave) of the outlets except the passenger dinette were on one 15A circuit. Running a space heater and almost anything would blow that circuit. Running the microwave and coffee maker would blow it.

This way when I am on the grid I only need to worry about the 30A total, and I can use all 30 amps. Off the grid it doesn't matter - 1 circuit would be enough.

3 circuits would have been enough, I could have combined the dinette outlet with the 2 by the fridge but it was easier not to.
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