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Old 06-03-2016, 04:08 PM   #41
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Thanks, Jack, for that clarification. I went back out and looked at the emergency brake thingie wire and it's definitely not a heavy-enough gauge to handle all those amps. I'll tap into the Big Cable like you did or go the 7-pin connector route. Thanks again!
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Old 06-04-2016, 01:03 AM   #42
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Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack Installation

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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
That is my other reasoning too. We carry a lot in the bed of the truck . When we are boondocking and are pretty level , sometimes don't unhitch. Pat

There's not a power Jack (or manual Jack for that matter) that I know of that will allow you to drop the tailgate of the truck all the way down when hooked up. The Jack-e-up that Jim has would allow the Jack to be removed and provide the clearance. When I need access to the bed while hooked up, I just lower the tailgate carefully and rest it on the Jack post. It stops about 2/3 of the way down. A shorter Jack would not make any difference with this, at least not with a regular pickup tailgate.


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Old 06-04-2016, 02:08 AM   #43
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There's not a power Jack (or manual Jack for that matter) that I know of that will allow you to drop the tailgate of the truck all the way down when hooked up. The Jack-e-up that Jim has would allow the Jack to be removed and provide the clearance. When I need access to the bed while hooked up, I just lower the tailgate carefully and rest it on the Jack post. It stops about 2/3 of the way down. A shorter Jack would not make any difference with this, at least not with a regular pickup tailgate.


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I think because we have a long stinger ,most of the time if we are kind of level the truck gate can lower all the way when we are hooked up . But I think because the electrical head is bigger that won't work . The only time that won't work is if the truck is a little higher then the trailer . Truck lower then trailer also no problem .When I'm going somewhere I always hookup , can drop tailgate , and load up a day or two before . Trailer is almost level , my truck is downhill . Pat
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Old 06-04-2016, 02:20 AM   #44
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Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack Installation

Yeah, that makes sense. Forgot that a longer stinger would provide more clearance. I don't think the head of the power Jack (at least not the type we have - Atwood 4000) would pose a problem in such a case. The head sits high enough that the tailgate would clear it as it swings down. I say that because our tailgate doesn't hit the power Jack head, but the post just below it.


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Old 06-04-2016, 02:30 AM   #45
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Yeah, that makes sense. Forgot that a longer stinger would provide more clearance. I don't think the head of the power Jack (at least not the type we have - Atwood 4000) would pose a problem in such a case. The head sits high enough that the tailgate would clear it as it swings down. I say that because our tailgate doesn't hit the power Jack head, but the post just below it.


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I'll give it a look then . I need to get some other things first though . Need some tire sensors on my trailer . Last summer was traveling I don't know for how long with a flat on one of my tires . Didn't see it until I got home . Pat
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:15 AM   #46
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The issue with leaning the tailgate or in my case letting it rest on the jack handle results in a dent in the tailgate if you put any weight on it to reach inside. I have about 6 different jacks I have purchased trying to find the ideal set up, even one with a removable handle. It worked, but a PIA to take handle off. I also have extended stingers that work because we are only talking about 2-3" here. They also work but the best set up is the Jack-E-Up. In order to use a power jack one will need to add a quick disconnect in the wires, or go back to the extended stinger. Just remember to get a heavier capacity one due to the extra length.
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Old 06-04-2016, 02:51 PM   #47
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Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack Installation

Good point about the quick connect on the power cable if you're wanting to use the Jack-e-up with a power Jack. My tailgate doesn't get damaged when leaning it on the post, because the entire top of the tailgate is a hard black plastic material. But, I would think that the easiest (and cheapest) solution would be an extended stinger. No electrical mod required.


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Old 06-04-2016, 05:29 PM   #48
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so if i installed the jack-e-up, how would I hold the trailer up? Use the stabilizers?. I bought this on e-bay for $69. Don't care if it works, will look good and deter theft. Now with the jack-e-up that would suit the bill if i could keep the trailer up .
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:46 PM   #49
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Normally you would not be using the stabilizers without using the tongue jack as it is only removed while under tow. That said, when I installed the Jack-E-Up, my 21' was supported only by the 4 stabilizers until the new system was operational. Just like those who remove the factory jack and install a power jack, the trailer is supported by the stabilizers only during the install process.
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Old 06-04-2016, 07:31 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by jerryandmaria View Post
so if i installed the jack-e-up, how would I hold the trailer up? Use the stabilizers?. I bought this on e-bay for $69. Don't care if it works, will look good and deter theft. Now with the jack-e-up that would suit the bill if i could keep the trailer up .
I assume you're talking about storing the trailer with that wheel lock in place and the tongue jack removed (using the Jack-E-Up bracket and plug-in wiring if powered). I see no problem at all leaving the front of the trailer supported by the front stabilizer jacks in this situation, even if you are using the trailer. They have more than enough capacity, and are directly under the trailer's frame.
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