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Old 12-05-2014, 06:46 PM   #1
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Hooking up a solar charge controller and inverter

Don't know if I can explain this very well, but I'm looking for the best spot to connect the +12v for solar and an inverter.

If I followed the existing positive (+) circuit right, the + battery terminal goes to the 30A inline breaker, then to the disconnect switch (I believe the switch is only on the 6 volt battery systems) then to the converter. I currently have the + of the solar charger connected to the non battery side of the disconnect switch so the disconnect shuts down the solar too. Thoughts on if this is best?
How about the battery temp sensor, does it attach to the batteries or just dropped in the battery box? All the prints I see make it look like it's connected to - terminal.

For the inverter, I believe the fuse goes as close to the batteries as I can get it. If I keep to a single + battery connection, then the new fuse, 80 or 100A in this case for a 600W inverter, would go between the battery and the original inline 30A breaker? then the inverter + connects to the non battery side of the fuse? The 30A breaker would still protect the wire to the disconnect while the fuse would protect the larger wire to the inverter, I think. Thought?
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:22 PM   #2
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First the more straightforward part:
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
How about the battery temp sensor, does it attach to the batteries or just dropped in the battery box? All the prints I see make it look like it's connected to - terminal.
The terminal. Not for an electrical connection, but to see as directly as possible the actual internal working temperature of the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Don't know if I can explain this very well, but I'm looking for the best spot to connect the +12v for solar and an inverter.

If I followed the existing positive (+) circuit right, the + battery terminal goes to the 30A inline breaker, then to the disconnect switch (I believe the switch is only on the 6 volt battery systems) then to the converter. I currently have the + of the solar charger connected to the non battery side of the disconnect switch so the disconnect shuts down the solar too. Thoughts on if this is best?
...

For the inverter, I believe the fuse goes as close to the batteries as I can get it. If I keep to a single + battery connection, then the new fuse, 80 or 100A in this case for a 600W inverter, would go between the battery and the original inline 30A breaker? then the inverter + connects to the non battery side of the fuse? The 30A breaker would still protect the wire to the disconnect while the fuse would protect the larger wire to the inverter, I think. Thought?
I think I understand this because the wording is clear, although any circuit description is a bit challenging without a drawing.

It all makes sense and the inverter addition sounds good to me... but the solar charger is a power source "downstream" of the disconnect, so the disconnect stops solar from charging the battery, but keeps everything live in the trailer with whatever the charger puts out: is that really the intention? Is the wire receiving the solar charger output protected by a fuse or circuit breaker? I think the idea is to place a protection device between any source and the circuit that could be powered by it; in a trailer with solar, sources include the solar charger, shore power charger/converter, tow vehicle charge line, and battery.
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
First the more straightforward part:

The terminal. Not for an electrical connection, but to see as directly as possible the actual internal working temperature of the battery.

Very good, thanks.


I think I understand this because the wording is clear, although any circuit description is a bit challenging without a drawing.

It all makes sense and the inverter addition sounds good to me... but the solar charger is a power source "downstream" of the disconnect, so the disconnect stops solar from charging the battery, but keeps everything live in the trailer with whatever the charger puts out: is that really the intention? No
Is the wire receiving the solar charger output protected by a fuse or circuit breaker? YesI think the idea is to place a protection device between any source and the circuit that could be powered by it; in a trailer with solar, sources include the solar charger, shore power charger/converter, tow vehicle charge line, and battery.
On the diagram, the fuse from solar is 10A, not 40. Hopefully this comes out.
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:47 PM   #4
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My factory installed 1500W inverter connects directly to the battery with two separate leads (+-), with the fuse at the battery on the positive side.

It's my understanding the battery disconnect switch kills all battery power to the trailer, except for the inverter, and the connections from the solar leads (through the controller) are independent of the battery kill switch. In other words, it won't turn off your solar charging.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:10 PM   #5
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Okay, I need to move the solar to the hot side of the switch, I'll add another disconnect switch for just the controller.

I like the idea of a single catastrophic fuse off the battery, might have to bump up it's value to 100A.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:11 PM   #6
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I'd make the connection for the solar controller on the battery side of the disconnect switch. That way you can turn off the disconnect when storing the trailer & still have the panel maintaining the battery charge. That is the way Escape wired mine (including an additional 30 amp circuit breaker between the solar controller output & the battery).

When I added my 1000 watt inverter, I replaced the #10 wiring from (and between) the batteries to the inverter with #0 (as recommended by Xantrex), then continued #6 wire to a 30 amp breaker & to the converter (through the disconnect switch). The larger wire size seems to help the WFCO converter go into the "Bulk" mode. There is a 150 amp catastrophe fuse mounted on the rear bumper within 12" of the positive battery post, as well as a separate disconnect switch for the inverter.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:37 PM   #7
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Thanks Bob - the diagram is clear and was what I pictured. The solar connection as shown is not working as you intended, but you've worked that out.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:43 PM   #8
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Jon, are there 2 legs off the 150A fuse? one going via 0awg and your added switch to the inverter and another of #6 to the converter via the breaker and the original switch?

Good idea to replace the original to the converter with #6.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Thanks Bob - the diagram is clear and was what I pictured. The solar connection as shown is not working as you intended, but you've worked that out.
The inverter wiring look okay as drawn? I'll add a disconnect to it as mentioned by Jon.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
My factory installed 1500W inverter connects directly to the battery with two separate leads (+-), with the fuse at the battery on the positive side.

It's my understanding the battery disconnect switch kills all battery power to the trailer, except for the inverter, and the connections from the solar leads (through the controller) are independent of the battery kill switch. In other words, it won't turn off your solar charging.
I have a main battery disconnect at the batteries and the 12 volt kill switch inside but I also added another switch under the dinette on the driver's side to completely disconnect the solar at my Morningstar solar controller. That way I can remove ALL 12 volt power when needed.
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