Planned modifications for my 19'

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by gabeck

Very nice .....wood floors are just so nice . Really like cork as well....... might be really nice next to the oak .......

My main reason for going cork over another wood, is the warmth it provides underfoot when stood on.

I have actually considered buying sheets of cork to glue to the existing vinyl, and then finishing it with a polyurethane to save weight.

[gabeck]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

My main reason for going cork over another wood, is the warmth it provides underfoot when stood on.

I have actually considered buying sheets of cork to glue to the existing vinyl, and then finishing it with a polyurethane to save weight.

That's an interesting idea ....I wonder about the drying time considering the porosity of the cork sheets........ Would you use an indoor or outdoor urethane ?

[JohnB]

CPA Jim

I am curious about the joint where you change directions with the laminate. It slounds like you are leaving this as a floating floor. Are you concerned about the gap opening at this joint as things shift a bit with temperature and movement from traveling?

As for longer screws for the table base, you could always cut a tiny bit off the pointy end of the new screw to make it bottom out at exactly the same depth as the old screw adding allowance for the thickness of the laminate and not have to worry about going through anything below.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by gabeck

That's an interesting idea ....I wonder about the drying time considering the porosity of the cork sheets........ Would you use an indoor or outdoor urethane ?

The dry/cure time of the urethane would be pretty much the same. I would just use an indoor type, as both are waterproof, and the main difference with exterior ones is the UV protection they provide which would not be needed inside.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by JohnB

CPA Jim

I am curious about the joint where you change directions with the laminate. It slounds like you are leaving this as a floating floor. Are you concerned about the gap opening at this joint as things shift a bit with temperature and movement from traveling?

As for longer screws for the table base, you could always cut a tiny bit off the pointy end of the new screw to make it bottom out at exactly the same depth as the old screw adding allowance for the thickness of the laminate and not have to worry about going through anything below.

I think expansion should occur transverse to the direction, I hope. Normal expansion/ contraction will happen around the long sides vs the short ends and I'm keeping one side open under the trim. That said, since I also purchased some matching caulk for the perimeter, maybe could use that for any gaps. Also these floors "lock" into each other in both directions with a male/female joint.

[Jim Bennett]

In reality, and engineered flooring will expand and contract very little compared to solid wood. Also, the expanse is very small in a trailer which would lessen the overall movement a lot. The only downfall, and that would likely be minor, is the huge temperature swings you would see, especially in northern climates.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Floating Cloud

I was thinking of using bamboo in the house and that's a thought for the Escape. I like it so much. I think it might scratch more though? I was going to put it in a room where we don't usually wear shoes.

Actually, the bamboo is very hard - much harder than the oak I replaced it with. I have had no problems with scratching, even wearing shoes (and I'm afraid I'm not the best housekeeper). As to how long it will hold up, I can't answer - I've only had it down for around 8 months but so far it looks just like it did when it went in.

[float5]

Jon, thanks. I was looking at it some more and found that the carbonized is softer. Of course, I was not considering that there is bamboo and there is bamboo, not all the same. I'm sure you have the good stuff. It's so nice.

[Ruthe]

I know I'm coming late into this conversation, but I'm interested in why you all are putting in new floors. Is this something that could be done while the trailer is being constructed?

[Jim Bennett]

Because we can, Ruthe.

I plan on doing it for the looks, and the warmth of cork underfoot.

In the factory where they use vinyl, it is put in before any other finishing, except maybe the liner, then the cabinets are built on top. This not only is easier for them, it provides a good base inside the storage areas, and is ideal there.

[gbaglo]

My buddy, who owned a design firm that did huge office buildings, restaurants and casinos, specified the flooring for his 19 prior to the build. He knows his materials, and had a top end vinyl installed.
Personally, I'm gonna wait until the floor needs to be replaced.

[KarenH]

Custom vinyl is pricey. I chose a Congoleum vinyl from Pioneer Building in Chilliwack but neglected to price out what Escape is paying for theirs... I just assumed that the difference couldn't be that bad. Whoa. Escape is paying only $6.00 per square meter for theirs so the upcharge is significant.

[cpaharley2008]

Finished the floor install today, it was near 85 and getting hot. Here is my "workshop"

[cpaharley2008]

Here is the floor install. I still need to purchase 3 pieces of moulding to trim out the sides and caulk the other side. There are no nails. just some wood wedges around perimeter and the screws thru the table supports. The floor can be removed if needed without any damage to the trailer. Will post the trim later.

[Jim Bennett]

Sure looks good, Jim.

I was planning to pull the existing trims off the cabinet bottoms, and replace after the floor install. Did you leave these in place, and now plan to just add another wee strip?

[cpaharley2008]

Yes,I left the factory in place because the corners have trim there would be a lot of timing if you remove the factory trim. They more or less make everything flush so I'm going to install some 1/4 round moulding, oak finish that ties the existing wall into the floor.

[RickM]

Jim, is that a vent on the bottom of the bath door?

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by RickM

Jim, is that a vent on the bottom of the bath door?

Yes it is, with the window in the bath I felt the MaxxAir would pull some air and we all know circulating air is good for preventing mold in bath areas. Also I wanted some heat to penetrate in the winter time. I'm contemplating replacing the vent which I made with this for aesthetic reasons

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I think expansion should occur transverse to the direction, I hope. Normal expansion/ contraction will happen around the long sides vs the short ends and I'm keeping one side open under the trim. That said, since I also purchased some matching caulk for the perimeter, maybe could use that for any gaps. Also these floors "lock" into each other in both directions with a male/female joint.

OK, I get it now. I have installed laminate flooring but never considered that they would interlock in both directions. Makes sense now that you pointed it out. Should work good for short runs like in a trailer as not that much of a concern with the subsequent joints down the run all being at the same location rather than being staggered. I learned something new today, thanks.

There is also the vinyl plank flooring that could be used to give a wood grain/plank effect and it is not as thick as the laminate. Similar but different look.

[cpaharley2008]

I purchased some oak moulding, cost me almost as much as one box of flooring. By the way, I only used one box of 8 plus 3 in the other box, 5 pieces scrap left over, so 4 boxes would do 3 Escapes. Installed the moulding and wiped floor down, getting ready for rally next week.