Question About Light Switch Wiring - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Modifications and Alterations
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-04-2016, 07:34 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: ?, Arizona
Trailer: ?
Posts: 735
See: https://www.oznium.com/rocker-switch
(Scroll down to the wiring diagram.)

The indicator light needs to be wired in parallel with the load, not in series. Without a ground it can only be series.
__________________

jamman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2016, 08:19 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 8,181
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
I guess it's a pretty simple thing, but me and 12V wiring are just getting acquainted.
For most purposes 12V DC and 120V AC wiring is effectively the same, with the positive and negative (ground) DC wires being used the same way as the line (hot, normally black) and neutral (normally white) wires of the AC wiring. Forget about the protective ground of AC wiring (green or bare wire) - there's no equivalent in DC wiring. That's the source of the black/white colour standard used in RVs which seems to confuse people so often because they're expecting red/black. That's only a general idea of course, to help adjust context.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Please tell me if this is correct then: Use the existing wiring to connect to load and to power. Add a third wire and splice it into a ground wire (hopefully in the vicinity).
Correct.

Whether the light in the switch is alway-on or on-when-switch-is-on, or on-when-switch-is-off (all three kinds exist), the wiring is the same; the difference is internal to the switch.
__________________

Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2016, 11:25 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
rbryan4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2015 F150 Ecoboost
Posts: 6,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
For most purposes 12V DC and 120V AC wiring is effectively the same, with the positive and negative (ground) DC wires being used the same way as the line (hot, normally black) and neutral (normally white) wires of the AC wiring. Forget about the protective ground of AC wiring (green or bare wire) - there's no equivalent in DC wiring. That's the source of the black/white colour standard used in RVs which seems to confuse people so often because they're expecting red/black. That's only a general idea of course, to help adjust context.


Correct.

Whether the light in the switch is alway-on or on-when-switch-is-on, or on-when-switch-is-off (all three kinds exist), the wiring is the same; the difference is internal to the switch.
Ok, thanks.

By the way, they're not constantly illuminated switches -- they light when the switch is on.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
rbryan4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2016, 12:51 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 8,181
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
By the way, they're not constantly illuminated switches -- they light when the switch is on.
Yes, I understand the purpose is for the indicator light to show that the controlled light is on. I don't have any of these in my trailer, but I have this arrangement in my motorhome for the storage compartment lighting, since it would otherwise be easy to leave those lights on accidentally and not realize it. The water heater switches (one for propane, one for electric heater) are lit when on, too. In home wiring devices, this is usually called a switch with a pilot light, and requires a neutral connection just as the 12V lighted switch requires a ground connection. I've been meaning to put some in my house for outside floodlights which can be accidentally switched on and not noticed in daytime.

In home switches, most illuminated switches are opposite: they are lit only when they are turned off, since the idea is just to be able to find them in dark. Those ones usually don't require a neutral connection because the internal light is wired to bypass the switch and use the controlled lamp as the path to neutral (it is the series connection which Doug mentioned). This two-wire scheme would work for 12V DC lights too, but wouldn't work for some equipment, is a problem with LEDs, and would work opposite to what is desired here anyway.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2016, 07:24 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
rbryan4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2015 F150 Ecoboost
Posts: 6,172
Thanks Brian. Yeah, I knew you understood about the illumination - the "by the way" was for everyone.

I'll have to get a flashlight in the upper cabinet opening and poke around for a ground wire. The switches in question are on the end of the upper cabinet over the sink. Hopefully there's a ground wire nearby.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
rbryan4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2016, 09:16 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Notasulga, Alabama
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L 4x4
Posts: 573
I suggest you set a 12V battery on a work bench along with a 12V light bulb and your switch, cut 5 or 6 foot-long pieces of electrical wire with small alligator clamps attached to each end, and then challenge some 5 year-old neighborhood kid that if they can get it wired to work correctly (with adult supervision, of course), you'll buy them an ice cream cone. I bet they'll have it figured out in no time. Then just wire your camper the same way (and don't dare tell the kid you couldn't figure it out!).
War Eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2016, 10:09 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
rbryan4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2015 F150 Ecoboost
Posts: 6,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
I suggest you set a 12V battery on a work bench along with a 12V light bulb and your switch, cut 5 or 6 foot-long pieces of electrical wire with small alligator clamps attached to each end, and then challenge some 5 year-old neighborhood kid that if they can get it wired to work correctly (with adult supervision, of course), you'll buy them an ice cream cone. I bet they'll have it figured out in no time. Then just wire your camper the same way (and don't dare tell the kid you couldn't figure it out!).
Probably right. My grandsons constantly amaze me at how quickly they can navigate a computer, and I'm supposed to be the engineer.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
rbryan4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2016, 12:28 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Area 51, New Mexico
Trailer: pondering.....
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
I guess it's a pretty simple thing, but me and 12V wiring are just getting acquainted.

So, I didn't know this but a wiring diagram was included in the packaging. In the second photo, the switch is oriented to match the diagram. What I said earlier about the terminal colors is incorrect - two of them are colored copper and one is colored silver. From top to bottom they're labeled as follows then:

1 = Ground (silver)
2 = Load (copper)
3 = Power (copper)

Please tell me if this is correct then: Use the existing wiring to connect to load and to power. Add a third wire and splice it into a ground wire (hopefully in the vicinity).
still don't see anything in those pictures of the package to indicate this switch is in fact wired internally as a 12vdc indicator. On the JR website page this switch is not listed as either 12vdc or 120vac illumination while the others are. Could be just a website error.
Like the other post, testing on the bench with a small battery seems prudent and to somewhat limit the current, even a 9v battery should illuminate the LED but maybe a bit dimmer. Connect negative battery to switch pin 1 GND and positive battery to switch pin 3 -Power... per your labels. Turn the switch on/off and see if you have lift off!
http://jrproducts.net/index.php/catalog/load_product_list/Electrical/On/Off%20Switches/
freespirit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2016, 02:07 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Area 51, New Mexico
Trailer: pondering.....
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by freespirit View Post
still don't see anything in those pictures of the package to indicate this switch is in fact wired internally as a 12vdc indicator. On the JR website page this switch is not listed as either 12vdc or 120vac illumination while the others are. Could be just a website error.
Like the other post, testing on the bench with a small battery seems prudent and to somewhat limit the current, even a 9v battery should illuminate the LED but maybe a bit dimmer. Connect negative battery to switch pin 1 GND and positive battery to switch pin 3 -Power... per your labels. Turn the switch on/off and see if you have lift off!
JR Products :: Catalog
and perhaps the switch internal illumination components are both 12vdc/120vac compatible
freespirit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2016, 02:23 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
rbryan4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2015 F150 Ecoboost
Posts: 6,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by freespirit View Post
On the JR website page this switch is not listed as either 12vdc or 120vac illumination while the others are.
A snip from the JR Website:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg JR12045.JPG (55.7 KB, 28 views)
__________________

__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
rbryan4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.