I expected to make a new tongue box and use the existing battery box for two 12s. Instead I got a free tongue box and had to make a custom box for two 12s. That's the way it goes sometimes.
I fabricated a battery box, used the existing floor drain and exterior vent. It's well sealed. I used separate entrance holes for the cables unlike ETI's way of notching the rim. The negative of that way is that every time you take off the lid you disturb the putty seal.
Installed the Blue Seas battery switch so that it's easily reachable. Easier install for the battery and switch than the 19, with the batteries and switch in the same locker. The old battery switch will become my solar on-off switch. I didn't have one of those switches on my 19, , but I see now why the Myron mod switch protector would be a good idea.
Took the opportunity to replace the seat support to nowhere with a continuous one and paint the plywood. I hate bare unfinished plywood.
Lots of mods to do and systems still to test. 2 night shakedown scheduled for next week.
Trailer: 2013, 17B 'Mini Pearl' and a 2010 Highlander
Posts: 400
Nice..
It took me awhile to spot the seat support to nowhere.
Now I'm going to have take my 17 apart to see if it is made the same way.
What are you up to next? A small inverter? A plug for a portable panel?
Well, if I was a betting guy I'd bet you'd find supports to nowhere in several places. The tip off is seeing a group of about 5 screws. They depend on several screws to the deck material to bridge the gap. It works but I noticed in my 19 that it you put a point load on the area, like kneeling, you hear it creak. Not a big deal but I wasn't going to ignore it and put it back together when I had a chance to improve it.
What's next? Don't make me think that far ahead. The list is very long.
One thing that is different though is that for the first time since 1988 when it became feasible to have a consumer priced inverter and microwave, they're not on the list. With USB charging and a 12 volt TV and extremely minimal use of the microwave I'll probably skip installing them. But they're are easy to retro-fit and never say never.
So just dealt with the support to nowhere on the other side and I open up the drivers side. What's the first thing that I do? Put my elbow down on the "support" and lean forward. Almost did a face plant. Must be a slow learner. Jim, no comment.
Yes, USB and voltmeter outlets are very inexpensive. I had 3 different ones in my 19 and will have at least 2 in the 21. Always nice to see voltage at a glance and you can never have too many outlets.
I see ETI hasn't lost their love of crimp connectors. At least opening up hidden spaces shows me where they are if I have problems in the future.
So just dealt with the support to nowhere on the other side and I open up the drivers side. What's the first thing that I do? Put my elbow down on the "support" and lean forward. Almost did a face plant. Must be a slow learner. Jim, no comment.
Yes, USB and voltmeter outlets are very inexpensive. I had 3 different ones in my 19 and will have at least 2 in the 21. Always nice to see voltage at a glance and you can never have too many outlets.
I see ETI hasn't lost their love of crimp connectors. At least opening up hidden spaces shows me where they are if I have problems in the future.
Ron
Ron first picture shows your cord confined but it is a little tangled . That will definitely gets worst as cord gets cold Pat
I have a nice set of "open barrel crimpers" that I do most of my automotive crimping with pretty good success.
I have never been a big fan of these "Scotch Block" connectors like these that we sumetimes need to use....
I had a "boat guy" show me a little trick when using them. If you insert some basic silicon rtv sealant into the completed connection it 1) not only makes the connection a lot more watertight but 2) more importantly it greatly minimizes any vibration/looseness by keeping the connector "pretty tight" as it cures pretty solid.
Good one Glenn. Kind of scary though, it's kind of like someones looking over your shoulder. We used to joke about Big Brother watching, not so much of a joke now.
... how would you do it? Crimp and solder? I'm trying to learn best practices for low voltage wiring.
Electrical connections are crimped - there's nothing wrong with that. Practices which are problems (which may or may not occur in any specific trailer) include
splices in what should be continuous wire runs (I think the crimped butt splice connectors in Ron's last photo are the issue to which he is referring), and
insulation-displacing connectors (such as 3M Scotchlok taps)
twist-on wire nuts
Solder is for printed circuit boards. Others will disagree, but try to find a soldered connection other than on a circuit board anywhere in a modern automobile...
Ron- Did you reinforce the front panel where you installed the marine battery switch? If so, how did you do it? Thanks.
And regarding ETI crimping connections-- how would you do it? Crimp and solder? I'm trying to learn best practices for low voltage wiring.
No, I didn't reinforce the front panel. It is a rotary switch, there isn't any push-pull action. The forces required to rotate the knob aren't large and the 4 machine screws are in shear. I've mounted them this way before and it's certainly strong enough to not require a back panel.
Personally I always solder my crimped connectors. Even being very careful crimping I've had crimped connectors come apart with a small tug. Soldered connections don't separate easily.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
Electrical connections are crimped - there's nothing wrong with that. Practices which are problems (which may or may not occur in any specific trailer) include
splices in what should be continuous wire runs (I think the crimped butt splice connectors in Ron's last photo are the issue to which he is referring), and
insulation-displacing connectors (such as 3M Scotchlok taps)
twist-on wire nuts
Solder is for printed circuit boards. Others will disagree, but try to find a soldered connection other than on a circuit board anywhere in a modern automobile...
Yes, it's the butt splices in normally inaccessible spaces that I don't like. I'd like to see more continuous runs and less butt splices.
Also the wire color changes drive me nuts. You look in a hidden space and see that a red wire becomes a green wire etc. Makes it very hard to trouble shoot if you're looking for the exit point of the red wire.
True about the lack of soldered connections in a modern car. But I have to believe that the highly standardized process in car production yields pretty consistent results. The "individually done by hand" method that ETI uses does yield some less than terrific results as I found on my last trailer.
Good one Glenn. Kind of scary though, it's kind of like someones looking over your shoulder. We used to joke about Big Brother watching, not so much of a joke now.
Ron
Not to worry, it's just google selling your data to advertisers. Big Brother has said this is OK.
, but I see now why the Myron mod switch protector would be a good idea.
Don't make me think that far ahead. The list is very long. 
Must be a slow learner. Jim, no comment. 
Pat
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