Step 1: conduit & pull wires - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-02-2019, 07:02 PM   #1
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Step 1: conduit & pull wires

I don't want the controls/displays in my dinette seat base so I specified a "don't mount, leave under seat" for all but the battery switch. Note: the battery switch is moving but I have plans for the hole location

I will be moving the displays above the fridge and will move on/off controls to a switch bank in the upper entry cabinet (5.0TA). I will also use that upper cabinet for my audio/video equipment.

To accomplish the remote location of the switches I will use relays controlled by the remote switches. This means getting a number of wires from the lower kitchen cabinet to the entry cabinet. The easiest, fastest, etc way to get all these wires was to go down thru the floor, along the frame and back up thru the floor.

The 5.0 came across the border on Monday; I ran the 1" non-metalic flex conduit (blue coil-looking stuff) on Tuesday; then back to ETI for the spray insulation on Wednesday. Thursday I moved some stuff from the old camper to the new. Friday the old trailer was taken in for some service. Saturday & Sunday gave me a chance to finish the conduit thru the bottom of the kitchen cabinet and then pull a bunch of wires:
  • 1 120v line for satellite receiver & cell phone amp power
  • 1 120v (spare)
  • 1 run #2 cable (neg & pos) for AV stuff and power for switches
  • 2 RJ45 cables (diff colors) for switch to relay
  • 1 dual #12 (+/-) for battery to landing gear/ebrake
  • 1 dual #14 (+/-) (spare)
  • 4 #14 single wires, all diff colors (spare)

I will say that it is impossible to pull 2 #2 battery cables thru the conduit into the 1" L fitting. Between the rubber insulation not being slick (just the opposite) and the size of the conduit/fitting it just won't go, together or the 2nd one separately. They ended up in separate conduit with other wires pulled afterward.

Monday again and I move campgrounds on Tuesday so today was getting stuff stored or tossed. My short-term future is going to involve organizing and continuing my modifications.

The attached pic shows the conduit installation and wires at each end waiting for use.

-top left: entry cabinet: 120v wires terminate in the box by themselves; all 12v wires pass thru another box (the boxes terminate the conduit.

- top right: p/s dinette seat base next to kitchen

- lower left: under sink going down thru floor

- lower right: under stove going to dinette seat base
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PhotoGrid_1567435112386.jpg (225.1 KB, 57 views)
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Old 09-02-2019, 07:13 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StillCampin View Post
I will say that it is impossible to pull 2 #2 battery cables thru the conduit into the 1" L fitting. Between the rubber insulation not being slick (just the opposite) and the size of the conduit/fitting it just won't go, together or the 2nd one separately. They ended up in separate conduit with other wires pulled afterward.
Made a lot of wire pulls in my career and found that wire pulling soap is mandatory for pulling cable in conduit.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-32-oz...ricant/1017915

Here's a good conduit fill chart to see if wiring will fit.
https://www.elliottelectric.com/Stat...ill_Table.aspx
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Old 09-02-2019, 08:48 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Made a lot of wire pulls in my career and found that wire pulling soap is mandatory for pulling cable in conduit.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-32-oz...ricant/1017915

Here's a good conduit fill chart to see if wiring will fit.
https://www.elliottelectric.com/Stat...ill_Table.aspx
Pulling lube certainly would have helped. I knew it existed but I wasn't wanting to go get it after I had already gone for a fish tape since I did not recall where I put mine (now I have 2). The insulation on that cable was not only thicker than thhn or many other but it is "grippy" against other things, esp a matching cable. Between the grippy & probably being a bit larger diameter than the tables expect due to the insulation, you might get 2 with lube but not the 3 the table shows.

Besides keeping 120vac separate from 12vdc I wanted to have the high power 12v cables separate from the multitude of lower power 12v wires but it didn't end up that way.

FYI - I'm using #2 for what will be less than 50 amps for a combined (+/-) distance of about 40'. Plenty of wire size for the amps but I'm addressing voltage drop, too.
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:28 PM   #4
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Be aware that if they didn't seal off that area you will get hot air from the fridge in that space. I would have to check but I measured temp on top of refrigerator when running I think about 20 deg hotter than ambient. I have an appointment next week to have my refrig removed and re-installed correctly. Excessive heat could kill electrons. Pull the black panel and see what's is behind it before you cut holes. they say they have changed refrigerator installation but check and check temp with refrigerator operating.
Picture shows what is on top of my refrig. If you have questions best to pm me so as not to ruffle feathers.20190823_175004.jpg
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:35 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by garyfaulkner00 View Post
Be aware that if they didn't seal off that area you will get hot air from the fridge in that space. I would have to check but I measured temp on top of refrigerator when running I think about 20 deg hotter than ambient. I have an appointment next week to have my refrig removed and re-installed correctly. Excessive heat could kill electrons. Pull the black panel and see what's is behind it before you cut holes. they say they have changed refrigerator installation but check and check temp with refrigerator operating.
Picture shows what is on top of my refrig. If you have questions best to pm me so as not to ruffle feathers.Attachment 41557
Just curious - who is doing the reinstall?
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:43 PM   #6
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local RV repair
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Old 09-02-2019, 11:49 PM   #7
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Be aware that if they didn't seal off that area you will get hot air from the fridge in that space...
At orientation Karl took me out to the factory to see how they are sealing/baffling/insulating above the fridge now. Supposedly well sealed as well as a few inches at the front wall without insulation so I may not have to move/remove much. I'll see when I open it up, probably in a couple weeks.

I'll definately do some temperature checks.
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