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Old 05-10-2016, 08:15 PM   #31
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Bruce, I was thinking of that too but wondered about the converter, but maybe with the disconnect switch to off it would be ok?
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Bruce Wray View Post
Other than an external port, would it be possible to to have the trailer on shore power, plug the Battery Minder into an inside 120v socket somewhat near the batteries and just let it do its thing inside the trailer?
Yes, that makes sense to me. Just turn off the 120V AC circuit breaker which supplies the breaker, so it doesn't run.

You would still need a way to connect the battery maintainer (Battery Minder) output to the battery, either hardwired (if built in) or plug in. I wouldn't want to plug it into DC receptacle, because those should be disconnected by the battery disconnect switch.

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Bruce, I was thinking of that too but wondered about the converter, but maybe with the disconnect switch to off it would be ok?
The battery disconnect would keep the converter from trying to charge the battery, but the converter would still be on unless you turn off the breaker which supplies it. The battery disconnect switch should be off in storage with or without the battery maintainer.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:35 PM   #33
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Brian, interesting. I was aware the disconnect switch broke the connection from the converter to the battery, but I thought the power came first directly into the converter. I didn't realize there was a breaker for it. I don't crawl under the bed often enough and I'm usually only after the hot water heater breaker.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:42 PM   #34
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I am assuming that you are having the Escape installed solar panel? If that is the case or even if you are doing something else best practices for solar say there should be a kill switch between the panel and the solar controller. For a portable system it is not so important as you can simply disconnect the panels. But with a permanent panel there should be a kill switch for maintenance purposes. You could be in for a rude awakening while working on sunny day.

If you did still have the solar operable while in storage the only down side would be the draw from the solar controller. Again a kill switch is recommended between the controller and the battery and that would solve the issue. In your case the small usage that will come from a solar controller's display would not be an issue for your Battery Minder to keep up with. Perhaps the screen on the controller could even be turned off to reduce that draw, there may be some parasitic draw even with the screen off, have never tested that. I have a Trimetric that has an inline fuse, I need to pull that fuse before winter storage.

If my assumptions are correct on what you will have for solar and using the Battery Minder as always plugged in, you do not need to do anything.

I do like the idea of using an external inlet to plug in the Battery Minder. What gauge of cables will you use between Battery Minder and battery?
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:01 PM   #35
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Paul - does Reace normally install the disconnect between the panel and the controller?
I was planning to ask for one. I'd use the same gauge that BatteryMider uses - maybe even the actual cable that came with it. I'm not sure what gauge it actually is.
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:12 AM   #36
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I just open the fuse between the panel and the controller. Mine's not the ETI installed setup but they should have one on theirs too.
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Old 05-11-2016, 07:16 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
What about Pepsi Cola?
I would use Pepsi. Otherwise you would be wasting good Coca Cola.
You can also use a mixture of baking soda and water. Or if you want to look professional and spend a couple of dollars unnecessarily, the auto parts stores sell battery terminal cleaner in a spray can.
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:45 AM   #38
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The BatteryMinder uses SAE quick connects. One like this one on the outside close to the batteries would make hookup very easy. Zamp SAE

(Thanks to Jon V for finding and posting this connector.)
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:10 AM   #39
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I see from the Amazon page that the Zamp outlet plug for the Battery Minder uses 8 or 10 or 12 gauge. There does not seem to be agreement. Am I correct you are using the Model 2012? From their web page it appears they are only using 18 AWG wire to the battery. In this example the Zamp outlet will work fine.

I might add that I do not think this outlet plug will work very well for connecting a solar panel. They describe it as such but unless one can confirm that they are using 8 gauge wire it is going to have too much voltage loss. Ten gauge would be a minimum.

I do not know how Escape installs their solar panels. Perhaps someone who has a recent Escape panel can describe what fusing and/or switches are installed on the wiring between the solar panel and solar controller and between the solar controller and the battery(s)?
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:44 AM   #40
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Paul, mine is the now replaced 12248 model, that was the one they recommended to me for large capacity 6V systems like ours. I think the replacement one for it is the 128CEC1.

I'm still deciding if, given our low power consumption, I will need my external panel anymore. If I do get any socket installed I'm leaning toward that one Jim B found and is ordering several of I believe. I may just wait and if I decide I need it install that socket myself later. I'm already giving the folks who are buying our 17 the solar controller you recommended and that excellent little water resistant box you sent me and I mounted it into.

The cheapo controller that came with the panel has found a new home in my homemade solar electric garden fence charger.
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