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Old 09-25-2018, 09:01 PM   #1
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Dometic DM2663 Removal

I would like to slide my refrigerator out so I can run some wires from inside the refrigerator to the back side.

I've removed the 4 screws from the front, 2 top and 2 bottom, removed two screws from the base rails in the back, Propane line, 12 volt wires, 110 plug and condensation hose.

My question is for those who have actually pulled the refrigerator out. I'm not finding it easy to slide out. I can get the front top to tilt out, but the bottom is being stubborn. Is there something else ETI does I need to undue? What process worked the best for you?
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:12 PM   #2
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There are 2 screws holding it down accessible from the outside access and the 4 inside. It seems you got them all.

Pull hard, it will come easy. Seriously though, I too found it a nice snug fit and the first time I took mine out I was a bit worried I missed something, but it came. Maybe lift it a wee bit as you remove it.

Both times I replaced mine the fridge would not work on AC. Don't forget to plug it back in.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:58 AM   #3
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I find it easier on the RMD8555 to get it started by pushing from the back. There was a small piece of wood under the rear of mine, I guess to hold up the back so the front would be flush, couldn't see it till the fridge was removed the first time. Again, this is a different fridge.
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
There are 2 screws holding it down accessible from the outside access and the 4 inside. It seems you got them all.

Pull hard, it will come easy. Seriously though, I too found it a nice snug fit and the first time I took mine out I was a bit worried I missed something, but it came. Maybe lift it a wee bit as you remove it.

Both times I replaced mine the fridge would not work on AC. Don't forget to plug it back in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
I find it easier on the RMD8555 to get it started by pushing from the back. There was a small piece of wood under the rear of mine, I guess to hold up the back so the front would be flush, couldn't see it till the fridge was removed the first time. Again, this is a different fridge.

Thanks Jim and Bob!
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:21 AM   #5
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Follow up

I finally was able to get the refrigerator to slide out. The issue was spray on foam behind trim piece at bottom of door. I had not plan on removing this piece as I was only sliding the refer out a short distance.

Once I removed the trim piece I used what I had on hand to break refer from spray on foams deadly grip! Oh yeah the trim piece had foam backing that was stuck to foam as well.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:27 AM   #6
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It seems like having the foam (or any other sealant) there is a good idea to keep any escaping refrigerator condensation from lipping back up under the refrigerator and causing damage over time to wood framing where it can't be seen unless/until the refrigerator is removed. If that makes sense, you might want to re-apply some sealant down there when you reinstall.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
It seems like having the foam (or any other sealant) there is a good idea to keep any escaping refrigerator condensation from lipping back up under the refrigerator and causing damage over time to wood framing where it can't be seen unless/until the refrigerator is removed. If that makes sense, you might want to re-apply some sealant down there when you reinstall.
It is nice to see Escape sealing well around the fridges. This is advised to keep any combustion gases exiting the flue at the back of the fridge so they can be vented. Older fridges seemed to be pretty loosely fit with large gaps around them and maybe only a gasket at the front. As we know it isn't just about the combustion gases it's about the heat that can be allowed to surround the fridge cabinet. Many of us have insulated around our units which helps solve both problems.
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