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Old 06-02-2016, 10:35 AM   #1
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Electrical too high

We plugged in where we are and everything worked fine for a while. Then the EMS started shutting us down because we are exceeding 132v. We are at 133, then 132, back and forth getting shut down. So we are on gas for the refrigerator and water heater. The refrigerator goes off whenever the EMS shuts off the electric (while refrigerator on gas). Guess there is no reason to be plugged in really so might as well unplug. Don't know how we are getting the high voltage but when at 131 and used microwave, voltage went to 128 or 129 or lower while microwave in use, then back up. Anyone had this?
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:41 AM   #2
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I'd complain to the cg and keep the entire trailer unplugged until fixed. Just think what a mess you may have had without the EMS performing it's function.....
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:43 AM   #3
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or try another site to see if it is camp wide or just the one location....
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:15 PM   #4
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How do you tell if the gas is working for the refrigerator? The water heater is hard to tell because maybe the water does not need heating now. Or stove is working but is there a better way to tell that the refrigerator is?
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:28 PM   #5
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There is an error light on the display for any malfunction noted as well as beeping.
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:16 PM   #6
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Open the back access cover and listen to see if the gas flame is burning. Unless there is a bunch of ambient noise you should easily hear it. Just make sure the fridge is calling for cooling. Like leave the door open till it warms a bit, put it on 5, and manually change it to gas. Give it a minute and the flame should be burning.

If you hear ticking, it's trying to light. If it won't light the fault indicator on the control panel should come on.
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
or try another site to see if it is camp wide or just the one location....
All the sites on that 120V leg will be pretty much the same, but sites serviced by the other leg might be a bit different depending on supply voltage and load.
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Open the back access cover and listen to see if the gas flame is burning. Unless there is a bunch of ambient noise you should easily hear it. Just make sure the fridge is calling for cooling. Like leave the door open till it warms a bit, put it on 5, and manually change it to gas. Give it a minute and the flame should be burning.

If you hear ticking, it's trying to light. If it won't light the fault indicator on the control panel should come on.
Good advice. If there is a lot of noise around you, you should be able to (carefully) feel the heat on the tube the burner is in.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:04 PM   #8
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All the sites on that 120V leg will be pretty much the same, but sites serviced by the other leg might be a bit different depending on supply voltage and load.

Good advice. If there is a lot of noise around you, you should be able to (carefully) feel the heat on the tube the burner is in.


Electrician said he has checked and found other sites high and has called power company. Site in another loop just fine but we don't want that loop.

We have no monitor display. All out. Except solar. Batteries fine according to solar display.

Raining hard now --- the usual here! So not checking outside yet. You would think there would be an easier way.

Don't know what sites are serviced under this leg. Maybe we will move down a few to see if the same.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:08 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Open the back access cover and listen to see if the gas flame is burning. Unless there is a bunch of ambient noise you should easily hear it. Just make sure the fridge is calling for cooling. Like leave the door open till it warms a bit, put it on 5, and manually change it to gas. Give it a minute and the flame should be burning.

If you hear ticking, it's trying to light. If it won't light the fault indicator on the control panel should come on.
No lights on refrigerator. We should have lights if operating on gas? When we pulled electric out, refrigerator blue light went out, as I guess it would? But not sure about that.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:15 PM   #10
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Utility transformers go from high voltage down to a lower voltage.
The transformer has 2 1/2 % taps so they can adjust for high or low line voltage. If some large user on the same utility line as the campgrounds drops their load or someone changes a tap setting , the voltage will rise. This will cause the 120 VAC to rise sometimes as much as 10%. I have seen industrial applications where the normal / nominal voltage is 470 VAC rise to well over 500 VAC. It is the utilities problem , either high voltage or in their transformer.
It is not a user correctable problem
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